Never again, don't even ask.

Stack another 3000+ monitor rebuilds, 600+ arcade machines, 100+ restorations and thousands of hours spent on this hobby, yes i'm tired. There's never a rebuild on one of these sanyo monitors that leaves me with a warm fuzzy feeling on any given day.

For sure. I finally finished it last night, and then spent another 30 minutes calibrating the 37 knobs on it to get proper colors. Cut my finger on the bastard somewhere.
 
the color transistors on the neckboard can go wonky if you put fresh caps in that are running full throttle. it's like it stresses the solder joints harder or something like that.

when I capped my Popeye, I didn't have to do this. when I got my Donkey Kong, I had to do it. PC-10, BOTH monitors had to get done (and mine are the Z2AW variety with inverter boards... even more shit to reflow).

you'll probably also observe that you'll have to re-white balance your monitors once you cap them. fortunately, these are pretty easy to adjust. be mindful there are 3 brightness adjustments, the flyback Screen pot (coarse), the Brightness pot (fine), and there's another medium brightness pot as well.

some of these monitors are like 30 years old now, so it's kind of logical for them to have cold solder. once you cap these they look magical, there's so much improvement. especially if you have foldover, like my PC-10 had. wow, it was like night and day.

With ANY monitor that I work on, I always reflow "problem" areas - areas with high heat, flex points, and ALWAYS the entire neckboard assembly. With the chassis out already, it's silly NOT to.

Thank you for these tips. This is the first I've heard of this. I need to re-cap and possibly replace the flyback in my Donkey Kong Sanyo 20EZ. I've not been able to find a schematic for the neckboard. Are these available somewhere? How about the locations and type of these transistors? Should I just reflow the solder or also replace the transistor? I'm dealing with a foldover, partial vertical collapse and a wave. What are some other "problem areas" on a Sanyo 20EZ?
 
I just capped a punchout yesterday(with the sound board kits). It was about a 4 hour job to do both and hit the tubes with the rejuvinator.. They look good now (minus the missing blue in the top I posted about). Probably could have done it in 3, but I was watching tv at the same time..

Going to repcap the atari version nintendos in vindicators and assualt next.. After that, I hope its a long time before I ever have to mess with nintendo monitors again..
 
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I have an EZ to do this weekend. Its a pita but soo worth it when I plug the game back in and all the colors are bright and the picture is crisp. Its like mini time machine... takes me back to when I was a kid and first walked up to that game and put that quarter in to play.
 
I have an EZ to do this weekend. Its a pita but soo worth it when I plug the game back in and all the colors are bright and the picture is crisp. Its like mini time machine... takes me back to when I was a kid and first walked up to that game and put that quarter in to play.

Do it on a g07 and save yourself 2 hours. :p
 
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