Never again, don't even ask.

Ghostnuke

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Have any of you serviced your dual monitor PC-10 lately? Jesus christ are those a pain in the ass to disassemble. Took me the better part of an hour to get the damn chassis off the frame. There are so many plugs and wires and crap. Why Nintendo? >_<
 
I did my bottom monitor about a month ago due to a bad flyback and hot. The top has some jailbars that I can live with for a little while. I have a cap kit on hand but no motivation. They are for sure a pain in the ass.
 
They're easier if you just give up no actually getting chassis out completely. I just remove enough of the crap to "fold" the chassis out of the frame and work on it while it's still attached. I just cap it, put it back in, and hope I don't ever have to do it again.
 
They're easier if you just give up no actually getting chassis out completely. I just remove enough of the crap to "fold" the chassis out of the frame and work on it while it's still attached. I just cap it, put it back in, and hope I don't ever have to do it again.

I thought about that, but then I started getting pissed and decided I was going to get it out if I had to rip it out. :D
 
I did both of mine last year. what was infuriating was the fact that after I capped them, THEN I realized that you have to reflow the color transistors. I also got shocked by my lower monitor adjusting it while it was on... I had an epic scrape on my arm from my arm shooting back and going up on the metal neckboard cover.

was it worth it though? yes.
 
the color transistors on the neckboard can go wonky if you put fresh caps in that are running full throttle. it's like it stresses the solder joints harder or something like that.

when I capped my Popeye, I didn't have to do this. when I got my Donkey Kong, I had to do it. PC-10, BOTH monitors had to get done (and mine are the Z2AW variety with inverter boards... even more shit to reflow).

you'll probably also observe that you'll have to re-white balance your monitors once you cap them. fortunately, these are pretty easy to adjust. be mindful there are 3 brightness adjustments, the flyback Screen pot (coarse), the Brightness pot (fine), and there's another medium brightness pot as well.

some of these monitors are like 30 years old now, so it's kind of logical for them to have cold solder. once you cap these they look magical, there's so much improvement. especially if you have foldover, like my PC-10 had. wow, it was like night and day.
 
the color transistors on the neckboard can go wonky if you put fresh caps in that are running full throttle. it's like it stresses the solder joints harder or something like that.

I had to do that on my Punch Out. Capped the upper monitor and turned it on, all the sudden everything was blue, I thought I royally screwed up that monitor...
 
the color transistors on the neckboard can go wonky if you put fresh caps in that are running full throttle. it's like it stresses the solder joints harder or something like that.

when I capped my Popeye, I didn't have to do this. when I got my Donkey Kong, I had to do it. PC-10, BOTH monitors had to get done (and mine are the Z2AW variety with inverter boards... even more shit to reflow).

you'll probably also observe that you'll have to re-white balance your monitors once you cap them. fortunately, these are pretty easy to adjust. be mindful there are 3 brightness adjustments, the flyback Screen pot (coarse), the Brightness pot (fine), and there's another medium brightness pot as well.

some of these monitors are like 30 years old now, so it's kind of logical for them to have cold solder. once you cap these they look magical, there's so much improvement. especially if you have foldover, like my PC-10 had. wow, it was like night and day.

Goddamn it, this just keeps getting better. Mine are the AW models too, hope those flybacks never go out...
 
I compare Sanyo monitors to Japanese cars, a bunch of stuff crammed in a small area.
sounds like my dodge neon everything is so cramped its hard to do anything my old car (95 mitsubishi galant) was not like that
 
Ugh, even just recapping this thing is pissing me off.

Do any of you have specific pcb locations for the transistors that need to be reflowed? I want to spend as little time as possible on this thing.
 
I realize that some monitors are easy pop out chassis with 2 screws and some plugs but I don't understand why people have problems with the sanyo's. It's by far my favorite to cap mostly because I've done so many. It really doesn't take much more than 5-10 minutes to get it out being careful. The 4600 is one I hate to do, daughter boards are gravy but the damn horizontal width coil mounted separately is a pain in the arse.

I have done maybe 10 - 12 sanyo's and haven't had any problems with the transistors so I don't know which one people do. - Barry
 
I realize that some monitors are easy pop out chassis with 2 screws and some plugs but I don't understand why people have problems with the sanyo's. It's by far my favorite to cap mostly because I've done so many. It really doesn't take much more than 5-10 minutes to get it out being careful. The 4600 is one I hate to do, daughter boards are gravy but the damn horizontal width coil mounted separately is a pain in the arse.

I have done maybe 10 - 12 sanyo's and haven't had any problems with the transistors so I don't know which one people do. - Barry

Maybe the EZs are easier, my PC10 has the AWs.
 
Maybe the EZs are easier, my PC10 has the AWs.

EZ, AW it doesn't matter as they're all a pain in the ass. I have 22 monitors sitting on my garage floor for repair right now and 13 of em are sanyo's that need the works. You'll become numb to working on these after you've repaired a couple hundred.
 
EZ, AW it doesn't matter as they're all a pain in the ass. I have 22 monitors sitting on my garage floor for repair right now and 13 of em are sanyo's that need the works. You'll become numb to working on these after you've repaired a couple hundred.

Ahaha, now I understand why you're getting out of the hobby.
 
What's this about? I'm just recapping mine. It works fine, just has a bit of wraparound.

With ANY monitor that I work on, I always reflow "problem" areas - areas with high heat, flex points, and ALWAYS the entire neckboard assembly. With the chassis out already, it's silly NOT to.
 
Ahaha, now I understand why you're getting out of the hobby.


Stack another 3000+ monitor rebuilds, 600+ arcade machines, 100+ restorations and thousands of hours spent on this hobby, yes i'm tired. There's never a rebuild on one of these sanyo monitors that leaves me with a warm fuzzy feeling on any given day.
 
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