Neotec NT-2701

thepita007

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Hello,

I am working on getting a neotec nt-2701 back up and running it currently has vertical collapse. While installing a cap kit I came across L401 which had a leg cracked off. The part descripton is LIN LL00026A 10UH. I am having no luck finding it online.

The other issue is C450 which is a high voltage ceramic cap (331k 2KV) was completly fried off the board. I have tested the HOT and it appears good. Anyone have any ideas what would cause this? I have replaced all the caps on the board and tested several diodes (yes I removed one leg from the board)

Here is a picture of it:
c450.jpg
 
Replaced parts listed above. Still vertical collapse. So I swapped IC401(which was a LA7851 from another monitor) and IC301 LA7836. Now I have the following issue.

screen1.jpg
 
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changes signal still same issue. So I checked all the solder points and found a few bad ones. Fixed those and now I get this issue. Cant seem to get it to adjust bottom just wants to curve under itself

screen2.jpg
 
....just thinking out loud.....are you sending the monitor the proper resolution? I believe the 2701 is medium resolution.

Edward

EDIT: nevermind.....just saw your last picture.
 
Did you get a pre-packaged capkit or did you make one up on your own? All caps installed correct polarity and in right spots?

Vertical linearity control adjusted?

Vertical output IC bad?
 
Did you get a pre-packaged capkit or did you make one up on your own? All caps installed correct polarity and in right spots?

Vertical linearity control adjusted?

Vertical output IC bad?

Bought cap kit from twistedquarter.com . They are all installed and in correctly polarity silk screen on board was wrong in a few places.

Swapped Vertical IC from another chassis and thats how I got this image to come up.

As for linearity control I adjusted it but nothing I do takes this fold out.
 
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That type of image I would
replace the Tantalum maybe Location.. c309..
can't sub with a radial cap..
Do you have the polarity correct on all the caps
in the 300 block or vertical circuit? its like 5-6 caps in circuit..

A vertical ic is part of my cap kit,but to each thier own..
Most of the time its elongated i replace the tant..
you can try Ic first if you got another used ic around..
Need to make sure you don't have any cracks in the control pots
they are easy to break and reflow the solder on each pin on remote bd.
 
I didn't have the exact same issues, but something related to your problem. Here is the thread link. I finally just puchased another used Chassis that would work with my Gauntlet Legends on my NT2701. I had to make a slight modification to the video connection, but nothing major. Please check out the link.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=182941
 
That type of image I would
replace the Tantalum maybe Location.. c309..
can't sub with a radial cap..
Do you have the polarity correct on all the caps
in the 300 block or vertical circuit? its like 5-6 caps in circuit..

A vertical ic is part of my cap kit,but to each thier own..
Most of the time its elongated i replace the tant..
you can try Ic first if you got another used ic around..
Need to make sure you don't have any cracks in the control pots
they are easy to break and reflow the solder on each pin on remote bd.

Thanks! I will check this when I get home.

I didn't have the exact same issues, but something related to your problem. Here is the thread link. I finally just puchased another used Chassis that would work with my Gauntlet Legends on my NT2701. I had to make a slight modification to the video connection, but nothing major. Please check out the link.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=182941

Working 2701 chassis are not the easiest things to come by. Unless I buy one from NeoTec at almost the cost of a brand new monitor.
 
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