Neotec NT-2701 >Zip Zip Zip<

FrizzleFried

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I have a Neotec 2701 that, when power is applied, makes a >zip, zip, zip, zip, zip...< sound.

I've read here that may be a HOT... also read where it was a CAP...

Question: Would it behoove me to just buy the HOT with the cap kit? If the HOT is bad, doesn't that mean the fly is shot too?
 
I think I've answered my own questions...

Look at this image:

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Now, I'm no expert but I do believe that there is a blown flyback as evidenced by the slight melted area in the oval on the fly and the white "stuff' on the metal that sort of is in the "melt path" on the fly...

No?

SO... what is involved in changing out a fly (I think i've done one... unsuccessfully).

Cap Kit
Flyback
HOT? Anyone know what HOT this medium res chassis uses?

Am I missing anything?
 

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Was it arcing between those two points? If so, I bet that was neat to look at, especially with lights off.

In any case, swapping the flyback is pretty simple. Discharge. Remove chassis. Desolder the fly at the bottom. Put new fly in and resolder.

Sometimes it can be tricky getting the new one in because the pins may not line up perfectly. And sometimes getting the old one out can be tricky because it's hard to get every last bit of solder off.
 
Hmm... odd that it costs $3.69 at one place and $13.00 or so at the other...

Thanks!
 
Hmm... odd that it costs $3.69 at one place and $13.00 or so at the other...

Thanks!

NTE brand replacements always cost alot more than the original component.

On a Neotec flyback there are a couple of screws to remove also once you've unsoldered it from the board. There are two wires going to the neckboard to remove and replace. One is the focus voltage wire (carrying up to 8,000 volts) and the other is the screen voltage wire (carrying around 400 volts).

http://www.arcademonitor.com/blog/repair.php?monitor=5
 
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OK... so I re-cap... I put a new HOT in and a new flyback...

I fire up the game with fingers crossed. First off, I notice the crackle sound of what I assume is HV... and no ZIP-ZIP-ZIP sound... good!

I then walk to the front of the game and wait... 5 seconds... 10 seconds... 15 seconds... DAMN... something is wrong obviously... I wonder if it's just that the screen is turned down?

I walk to the back of the cab and look inside... it was then that I caught the distinct smell of electronic component burning up... oh yes... the bitter-sweet smell of failure was at hand. I turn the game off and take a closer look. Yup... smoke... the magic smoke... NOooooo!

I pull the chassis out to find this at D404:

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(A) Is that SUPPOSED to have a Diode and Resistor/

(B) Can anyone give me the values if it IS right?

(C) What are the chances this was self-caused vs me replacing whatever is supposed to go there to find it burn up again?

(D) Where do I go now?


Any/all help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Yeah... I saw the manual doesn't list anything at D404... but then I found a picture of my chassis online... and sure as shit it has something there that LOOKS very similar to the Diode+Resistor combo I pictured above... but it's hard to tell as it's not SUPER high res...

EDIT: Wait... I just found another image that shows the area pretty good and it shows component as D604... it's hard to tell on my chassis as the first digit has been burned...

See:

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But the manual doesn't list D604 either?!
 

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Well... you would have been able to see if the forum software didn't reduce the size of the image...

:(

(and ignore the arrow... not my image)
 
Interesting. Even though the manual I posted above says it is for 2700, 2701 the "cap map" on page 10 shows the configuration of a 27E, just like the ones I have.

Looks like you have a different revision or something. But no matter, is that where the smoke was coming from?
 
Interesting. Even though the manual I posted above says it is for 2700, 2701 the "cap map" on page 10 shows the configuration of a 27E, just like the ones I have.

Looks like you have a different revision or something. But no matter, is that where the smoke was coming from?


That is the only thing burned on the chassis... and it wasn't burned prior to firing it up...
 
Just a couple observations about Neotec

1. The chassis markings, and the schematics, are often wrong. I've had several that say 2701, and also say 27E, on the same board. Neither set of schematics seems to match up.

2. Be careful that you put in A. the same part number HOT, and B. a HOT that's not counterfeit.

I bought some off ebay about a month ago that were fake. They were stamped with a number, but that's not what they were. I ordered some from Chad at Arcadecup, and he sent me the correct part. I like ordering that weird crap from Chad because he uses those same parts in the boards he rebuilds, so he already knows it's the correct part.

The reason D404 isn't listed on the schematics is because it's either a slightly different board, or that's a factory revision, notice how they shoehorned two parts in one location, instead of silking two places for two parts. You'd think since it's silked "d404" though that they would at least have THAT 1 part on the schematic, but there's probably 10 different versions or something.
 
Got the HOT from Bob Roberts. Told him what chassis I had and asked he send the proper HOT and yoke combo. I can tell you that the hot looked different than the one I pulled out... and had a different part number?!

I assumed Bob knew WTF he was doing.
 
Got the HOT from Bob Roberts. Told him what chassis I had and asked he send the proper HOT and yoke combo. I can tell you that the hot looked different than the one I pulled out... and had a different part number?!

I assumed Bob knew WTF he was doing.

I have come across a few Neotecs that were labeled 2701's when in fact they were 27E's, no kidding.
 
Don't forget there are TWO versions of the 2700 series monitors. There were two different manuals printed depending on which version yours is.

There is the "Full Family" version and the "Li-Chin" version. The names of these versions are on the neckboard.

I have both manual versions scanned, but in Paperport (.max file) format.

EDIT: I now have the "Full Family" version converted into a complete pdf manual, almost a 2mb file size. Manual uploading is still not working on KLOV.

FURTHER EDIT: I now have the "Li-Chin" version converted into a complete pdf manual.

I have digitally cleaned up both versions. I just don't have any place to post them right now.
 
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