NEOTEC NT-2701 Chassis ID Help....Tech ???

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I decided to take it slow on this one after reading all the issues with two different versions of this chassis along with the solder side of the board being silk screened incorrectly for Cap Negative polarity...this is what I have and I hope the pictures are helpful.

Started out with no picture, no neck glow, tested HOT Q402 BU2532AL reads dead short all directions, pulled it, same 0 reading out of circuit, C423 was replaced at one time with part no. PMV924J 400V, inspected found cold solder joint and reflowed, found cut or broken wire at J131 between C409 & C406. Basically looking for pointers on where to go next, do this, don't do that scenarios.
 

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Check the two different manuals to see which version you have:

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Neotec 2700 Full Family version.pdf

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/NT2700 LiChin version.pdf

Each of the boards in these monitors will have a name silkscreened to tell you which version you have: either "Li-Chin" or "Full Family". Sometimes the name is only screened on one side of the board so you have to look on both sides just in case. I usually look on the remote adjust board first since it is the easiest to access.
 
I must have the Full Family version, checked main chassis and the remote board and I'm not seeing anything stamped or marked with those names, Q402 in both manuals are different part numbers, my HOT part number is not shown in the Li Chin manual only in the Full Family, these versions don't seem to come into play when ordering cap kits from Bob Roberts or Zanen, really confused on what difference this makes if any, still need help with the cut Green Jumper wire as shown in the picture, is it cut on the component side for a reason, not really sure on the accuracy of the manual since reading some past threads on the manual having incorrect cap values and resistor values, kind of really looking to get past the basics and gather the correct road map on how to proceed, not sure if the factory manual is going to help if it has known mistakes.
 
Caps first!!

Replace the caps first!!

and check the HOT for a short!

using the cap kit for that model..

mention any change with the uf and voltage when your replacing the

caps and the part location's

the cut jumper should apply to horizontal phase used

when replacing the Vertical/horizontal IC or some parts

in that circuirt..basicly when the phase is set the wire gets cut!!

Good Luck!
 
Replace the caps first!!

and check the HOT for a short!

using the cap kit for that model..

mention any change with the uf and voltage when your replacing the

caps and the part location's

the cut jumper should apply to horizontal phase used

when replacing the Vertical/horizontal IC or some parts

in that circuirt..basicly when the phase is set the wire gets cut!!

Good Luck!

Thank you for the heads up on that Green Jumper. The HOT is definitely toasted, reads dead short out of circuit, not sure if it just failed on it's own or something else in the circuit caused it, noticed that Neotec skimped on the heat sink compound, found very little white residue if any on the mica or the component, could be that the lack of heat sink compound caused it's demise.

I ordered a new HOT today from Chad at Arcadecup and will start there, not sure about doing the full cap kit due to the fact the monitor had vibrant sharp colors until It cut out, will check the ESR on all the existing caps while I'm awaiting the new HOT.

My main concern is the Flyback, it looks solid no cracks or oozing, hate to change it if it's still alive, any input on what other components to check prior to firing her up with the new HOT installed would by appreciated, thanks again for the input.
 
Pardon the bump but forgot to mention that this is a Full Family NT-27010 version chassis out of Cruis'n Exotica, there is a Li-Chin version but from I can gather from the manuals, several components are different including the HOT and Flyback plus misc. caps
 
Hv parts

All the electrolytic cap need to be replaced

poor horizontonal drive will saturate a HOT.

c415,C117,C120.. The Hv caps like c423,c419 ,421

if it looks to dark or shorted most of the time i replace all of them

some can kill the B+ other will stretche the width

when they change value... you see c419 is dark in the picture

when theres poor filtering from the power supply it can

make the chassis parts run hotter untill they fail.

B+ set to high can shorten the life of the HOT..

Good heat transfer is important the heatsink should be hotter then the part!!

Heatsink compound does dry out and not transfer the heat to the heatsink.

When the HOT is damn hot within 15 minutes or less there other issues

in the chassis.. the wrapping on the Horizontal driver transformer is real

dark its a issue, there are some signs you look for during a repair.

over heated trace at the connection of h.o.t, cracks in the flyback

the body of the fly get hot within a short period of time..







I look for the future not the present in my repairs

my defective parts list includes the flyback also

on each original parts repair then i look for other defective parts like vertical ic..

another high current part that as it ages it can short or kill the dc.

If all original parts then i replace them atleast once in it chassis life.

If your looking for a quick fix and no warranty then target just the bad parts today!

But it may just draw out the repair, and you can find a symptom for each bad part

but be real this is a old chassis and needs to be restored..

A good picture can tell you, you have a good crt but still need the chassis rebuilt!

Good Luck!
 
It's Alive! Turned out to be just a bad HOT, ordered new HOT from Chad at Arcadecup, fired her up, tested for few hours every day for the last two weeks, thanks again for all the input.
 
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