not working when i first plug it in i here is degauze. but i never here the tube fire up. the game is playing (primal rage) from what i read on here the flybacks are a problem on these does this sound like what my problem would be?
neotec nt-2515c
- Thread starter punkshere2stay
- Start date
Ohmerone
Well-known member
Whats the DC voltage at R117 the B+ resistor?
The HOT should never read low ohms on the collector
a simple ohm check is all you need.
I use my ohm meter as much as i use the diode and Volt meter
all three is needed to get the infomation.
If the HOT reads shorted from collector to ground then remove it
and test it again. I always suspect the HV caps C419,C420 and C421
any one could short and split even swell alittle a simple ohm check
and inspection is all you need.
If no voltage on R117 on both sides of resistor then suspect the Primary
circuit and no shorts to ground off R117.
Ic101 and Q101 would be next if no secondary voltages.
Get the facts!! guessing will cost you more money in the end!!
OP
OP
sweet i was hopeing someone would chime in and throw me in the right direction.! thanks for thie info i will check out and come back with the results
OP
OP
i forgotto put in my orginal post that they i got it from him and his brother where playing the game and then all of a sudden the screen just went out. and woul dnever come back on. if that changes anything
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Check R117 as suggested. I just fixed it's stepbrother the 25E. Nothing at R117, and nothing after a full capkit. Replaced IC101 and back to working...
OP
OP
ok so im new to the monitor fixing and diagnosing so how do i check the IC101? and HOT i am assuming the "C" on the diagram is what collecting? it doesn't go to ground but the other 2 do. my r117 is reading 22.5 ohms
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
What you're supposed to be checking at R117 is the DC voltage while the monitor is on. It's not easy getting your meter back there with a live monitor, so attach an alligator jumper to it and put the other end on your red lead, then the black lead to the monitor frame.
As for IC101, not a good way for you to test it. If you read 0 volts at R117, then replace it....
As for IC101, not a good way for you to test it. If you read 0 volts at R117, then replace it....
OP
OP
ok so if i do get 0 volts when i get a chance to test it where would i get this IC101?
OP
OP
ok so i only have .03 vdc at my r117.. so now where do i get this tda4605-15 chip from?
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modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
You can the NTE equivalent now from Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NTE/NTE7154/?qs=TK2zqT4Ej/dfPmAv/0TxGA==
They have 8 in stock. If you can afford it, get two - just in case you have another issue that takes this chip out, although I doubt it...
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NTE/NTE7154/?qs=TK2zqT4Ej/dfPmAv/0TxGA==
They have 8 in stock. If you can afford it, get two - just in case you have another issue that takes this chip out, although I doubt it...
OP
OP
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
No. Give them a call...
OP
OP
i know mouser has been around for years but when i was searching i came across this and saw they where cheaper...
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Mouser has actual TDA4605's cheaper, too, but not in stock...
OP
OP
IC101 is back in business Thanks a million guys (i bought 2 just in case so i have one extra)
OP
OP
well after letting it run for a bit i have some white lines that run side to side... so i guess i wasn't lucky enough to not have to put a cap kit in it... 
Did you ever cap this monitor? I'm interested in hearing how this turned out.
