neotec ID and questions

pinnut

Active member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
1,084
Reaction score
20
Location
New York
this is out of a maximum force. the tag on the neck board says nt-35c. is that what it is? is there a repair manual pdf for it ? what is B+ supposed to be and here is it tested/adjusted? cant find much info on it. also, looks like a switching PS that doesnt require an iso transformer, is that correct? looking further, the 2515c looks very similar. looks like the same B+ test point and adj. can i use that manual?


thanks
 

Attachments

  • 20171203_193419.jpg
    20171203_193419.jpg
    611.8 KB · Views: 12
  • 20171203_193427.jpg
    20171203_193427.jpg
    575.3 KB · Views: 11
  • 20171203_193436.jpg
    20171203_193436.jpg
    576.3 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
it has bigger heatsinks then the 2515c so i would guess that is the 35c.
 
Look in the machine Neotec was one of the few

that sent the monitor manual with their game manual.

Unless someone removed it.

it would have adjustment page and parts list

and schematic.

May not need the E-caps just to see whats wrong now.

Always the highest voltage in the power supply is the B+

at least for med/standard res games.

you can see where the B+ is measured.

on the board, it says DC with an arrow pointing to the Test Point.

they are mentioning both secondary voltages.

larger tubes is around 95v dc

you need to test for a short first!

before you order anything.

a visual inspection is first, if the caps have already been replaced.

next if any burned up parts?

next bad connections.

now plug it in if you didn't notice anything.

black lead on heatsink red lead on the .47 Ohm resistor..

need to ohm the part and measure dc on both sides of resistor.

for the B+ the second dc test point is for thr vertical voltage.

either one will cause shutdown if short..

both need to be high ohms reference to ground on each supply line.


It has a SMPS does not need a iso transformer
 
Last edited:
here what i have. there was a manual in the game, see pics. the manual says 2515c/nt-25E
the tag on the neck says nt-35c . i did notice things in the manual that arent populated on the chassis boards. anyway, i replaced the 8 leg IC in the power supply , i forget the #, 4602 or something . i also checked B+ , with the chassis anode and dag connected to an old tube( no yoke connected). B+ was 127, now adjusted down to 125. the other voltages from the manual tested good. i got the 24 volts on pin 9 of the flyback, but it was AC referenced to ground. on DC i got nothing, so i assume it is AC, as the manual said its a peak to peak measurement. also, at the anode, i get 10k volts.previously, i was getting zero volts on the anode. 10k is low, but why? no yoke? im tempted to take a pretty long drive and try it in the game. i didnt pull the tube, its a maximum force, and pulling the tube is some heavy work.
thinks its a decent chance this will now work in the game?

thanks
 

Attachments

  • 20171205_182609.jpg
    20171205_182609.jpg
    529 KB · Views: 4
  • 20171205_182639.jpg
    20171205_182639.jpg
    417.5 KB · Views: 3
here what i have. there was a manual in the game, see pics. the manual says 2515c/nt-25E
the tag on the neck says nt-35c . i did notice things in the manual that arent populated on the chassis boards. anyway, i replaced the 8 leg IC in the power supply , i forget the #, 4602 or something . i also checked B+ , with the chassis anode and dag connected to an old tube( no yoke connected). B+ was 127, now adjusted down to 125. the other voltages from the manual tested good. i got the 24 volts on pin 9 of the flyback, but it was AC referenced to ground. on DC i got nothing, so i assume it is AC, as the manual said its a peak to peak measurement. also, at the anode, i get 10k volts.previously, i was getting zero volts on the anode. 10k is low, but why? no yoke? im tempted to take a pretty long drive and try it in the game. i didnt pull the tube, its a maximum force, and pulling the tube is some heavy work.
thinks its a decent chance this will now work in the game?

thanks


You have the remote board hooked up?

I say you still have a problem with the chassis.
 
the remote board was hooked up. is there a usual cause for a 10k v anode? might have to send this puppy out.
 
It should be a 35 inch.

you should have at least 25kv

needed to use yoke for horizontal

should have measured the ohm of the yoke!

possible Hv cap on pincushion board.

they just share the board with the HV cap c21 may have changed its value

need bulb parallel the B+ to hold the voltage down

you should be in shutdown or its trying.

with the higher B+

dropping the B+ to 95v dc and then measure the High voltage again.

just because it had a bad PWM ic doesn't mean it does have another problem.

try this first
 
Back
Top Bottom