eyeless
Member
can someone point me to a page that sells the cap for c423 on a neotec 2701.
Last edited:
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Thank you sir, you are the man.
I repaired the nt-2701 in my san francisco rush recently. It was as full family version. When I got it, it had a dim screen. I turned up the fly back and pop no video. Pulled the board out and tested the HOT and it was dead. I replaced the hot and they flyback and put the chasis back in and it powered up but had vertical collapse. I bought the ic301 vertical chip and the ic401 sync chip. Replaced ic301 first and still had vertical collapse. Replaced ic401 then I was back in business. Except that the screen was too wide and the horzontal width pot did nothing. I replaced c550 a np cap and everything looked good. My cap kit finally came in from twisted quarter, which was on back order so I put it in and of course the silk screen was wrong for two caps on my board and I smoked the resistor that was tied to d404 which is not in the manual. I turned the caps that were wrong around (the silk screen on top said one polarity and the dot on the bottom said the oppisite polarity so I recommend replacing them one by one on the neotec and if in doubt post or do like I did and follow the traces till you fine the one that leads to ground) I replaced the burnt resistor with a 2.2 ohm 1/2 watt resistor thanks to ohmerone for that info and then the picture looked bright and excellent. A few days later after leaving it on for about 8 hrs strait and it was back to chirping. Pulled it out and checked it over and C423 had split open. Since I couldn't find a replacement I tied two .47uf 400v caps together in parallel to get close enough to a normal c423. Put it back in and now we got high voltage again, But now we have vertical collapse again. Soldered a dip socket in to make future changing faster for IC401 and slapped in new chip. Now everything is looking good again. I pulled out all poly caps and tested them with a capacitence meter to see if I should replace them as well. All of them checked out within spec so I did a 2 day burn in on it which it survived. So now it looks to be working fine. Ken Layton posted the manuals for both nt-2701's and they have a good trouble shooting section I would suggest following. A big thank you to Ken and Ohmerone for making this repair easier.