Neo Geo MVS 4 Cart, Ver 3. First time Owner/Servicer/Repairman

[shess]

I wouldn't get hung up on wire colors because it sounds like yours are mismatched. Match the pins on the MVS harness to the connectors on the monitor chassis. RGB are pretty standard but just grab the wire connected to sync on the mvs harness and connect it directly to the wire connected to sync on the monitor chassis.

LCD/CRT monitor is going to look very blocky compared to an original arcade monitor. And you will get ridiculed by arcade enthusiasts ;-) .

 

[Devryn]

LOL Their jeers aren't enough to keep me from saving a few bucks and having a monitor solution that is easier to work with. I'm afraid that even once I get this thing wired and even it if works, I won't be able to adjust it properly. Soldering a new cap kit is just simply beyond the capability of my admittedly shakey hands. The rest of the terminology (flyback?) I don't even understand at all. It's grΣΣk to me.

 

[shess]

Well if you get it to work, adjusting it is easy, there are about 5 different white potentiometers on the back of the chassis that control everything. If you want to see what the picture will look like on a LCD/PC monitor, just fire up Mame on your PC and that will tell you. It can't hurt to ask around for people who do repairs. I've even seen fully working chassis sell on ebay that you would just have to swap out with yours. But regardless, it's your machine.

I didn't notice but do you have the PCBs up in the marquee area for the mini-marquees? I'm on the lookout for a couple of the little panels since some of mine don't light up.

 

[Devryn]

Well if you get it to work, adjusting it is easy, there are about 5 different white potentiometers on the back of the chassis that control everything. If you want to see what the picture will look like on a LCD/PC monitor, just fire up Mame on your PC and that will tell you. It can't hurt to ask around for people who do repairs. I've even seen fully working chassis sell on ebay that you would just have to swap out with yours. But regardless, it's your machine.

I didn't notice but do you have the PCBs up in the marquee area for the mini-marquees? I'm on the lookout for a couple of the little panels since some of mine don't light up.

The things with the plasma lights on them? I have them, but I don't believe the plasma lights work.

 

[PrairieDillo]

put your city in your control panel info.
If you are cool, someone local may give you a hand.

If the monitor chassis can be repaired then send it to someone for fixing.
It's common enough that many have worked on them. I have a mess of those.

Ask around in the monitor forums for somone to take in the chassis, test and get it all running for you. Prices etc.

Top dollar is Arcadecup.com but there are others in various price ranges.

The main difference between these tube CRTs and LCDs is the fact that you have scan lines. put MAME on your laptop next to any arcade game and look at them side by side. I can't stand it, could you?

 

[Devryn]

Well, the fuses keep blowing as soon as it's turned on. I have 250 vac 2 amp slow blow, and they blow as soon as it's turned on. So what are the probable issues? This thing is really pissing me off now.

 

[shess]

From the repair flowchart for a k7000: If Fuse F1 blows, check the HOT (horizontal output transistor) Q11. Test with diode check or ohms check. Ground the black meter lead to the chassis and touch the red lead to the center leg or metal tab (collector) of the transistor. Open or high resistance is good, shorted when bad. Test with power off.

Can you also confirm that the power is going through the isolation transformer? This is very very important. Also check diodes D19-D22. And the last resort is the flyback transformer.