Neo Geo MVS 4 Cart, Ver 3. First time Owner/Servicer/Repairman

[Devryn]

Reference my earlier questions about the cables on the back of the monitor. Here are more pictures of the back of the monitor and the connectors. I STILL cannot find a place on the monitors board for that black connector:

In the above picture, you can see where I connected the degaussing wire.

 

[Devryn]

Here are the pictures of inside of the cab and stuff and the wiring as requested.

Can anyone tell me which of these is supposed to go to where on the mainboard?

Oh, and some sort of adjustment board for the monitor:

 

[Devryn]

Good news! I found where the black connector goes.

New Problem: in post 21, the last picture, to the left of the black thing that says "Shinyei", is there supposed to be a fuse there? Looks like it. If so, what kind/amp? Obviously, the tube kind, but what amp?

 

[shess]

Did the seller say what worked and what didn't? That all looks pretty well massacred. That white block you took a picture of is a giant resistor...I think, and it goes on the monitor. But looking at some of your other pictures I see one is already attached, so maybe it's ok.

Oh, in the picture where you plugged in the degauss wire, there is a big green cylindrical capacitor. To the right of it are 4 pins, that's where the yoke connector goes. And you're in luck, they're labelled with the colors.

I'll look at my monitor to see what kind of fuse it uses. I'm also having trouble seeing what you're trying to hook up to the mainboard. There should be two ports for the EL panels, two ports for the LED credit boards, and two ports for the memory card reader.

Here is the link to the manual for your board maybe it'll help you figure out what you have and don't have: http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/MV2F-MV4FServiceManual.pdf . But I have to say, your monitor cable looks pretty ragged. The yellow/white cable should be composite sync..probably. You might want to just find the wires coming off the mvs harness, lengthen them, and just connect it directly to the small rectangular connector that connects to the monitor chassis.

I've got a 6 slot NeoGeo so I can give you specific details on NeoGeo related stuff if you need it. Good luck!

 

[PrairieDillo]

I'm thinking to make you a full video of where every cable goes. i only have a screwy on/off switch which was bypassed as well as the main fuse.

I just don't have time right now.

You have bigger problems however. There is no way that they pulled the monitor chassis off a it when it actually worked. w/ the spare ceramic fuse it shows that they were swaping parts or was getting ready to. I'm mostly sure that the monitor isn't working.

Power plug cut off the chassis. Video connector cut off of the harness. There is a ground that goes from the monitor to the neck board also that was cut. It's a black wire I usually use a screw on connector to re-connect that particular ground from the tube to the neckboard. Almost everyone that I've seen has been cut by someone removing the chassis.

 

[Devryn]

The seller said everything works great. He said he only took it apart to replace the sides. He runs an arcade repair and maintenance business...I don't understand why he would go so crazy with the wire cutters. Oh well. All I can do is get it all hooked up and see what happens.

Shess: the thing I'm trying to hook up to the mainboard I guess are the memory card cables (the one's with an IDE looking end). I looked at that manual, but I can't discern which one goes in which spot on the mainboard. That's a picture of where those cables come from, with the joystick panel flipped back/open. What is the EL Panel? I've got the credit LEDs hooked up.

 

[shess]

Yea, those IDE cables are for the memory card. Maybe there's a number marked on the memory card board that says which one is which? But honestly, unless you plan on using it, you could just leave it unplugged. I've had mine for years and don't use it. It would require buying a memory card for it and they're on the rarish side.

The EL panels are the boards that light up the mini marquees. On my board there is a single connector next to the ports for the credit boards which connects to the EL panels. If you don't have the EL panels then don't worry about it.

 

[Devryn]

Yea, those IDE cables are for the memory card. Maybe there's a number marked on the memory card board that says which one is which? But honestly, unless you plan on using it, you could just leave it unplugged. I've had mine for years and don't use it. It would require buying a memory card for it and they're on the rarish side.

The EL panels are the boards that light up the mini marquees. On my board there is a single connector next to the ports for the credit boards which connects to the EL panels. If you don't have the EL panels then don't worry about it.

Oh...O.K. I kinda thought they tied in the joysticks too, but I guess that comes from the main connector?

 

[shess]

Yea, the joysticks and buttons all have their own wires connected directly to the mvs harness. Those IDE looking cables are only for the memory card.

 

[Devryn]

I have the red/green/blue wires soldered into the harness. There's a sync wire in the harness that runs FROM the monitor. It has a yellow wire, a white wire, and a black ground wire. The MVS harness has the red green blue obviously, but it also has a black wire and a black with a white stripe wire. Which is for the sync wires and which is the ground wire? I ASSUME the solid black wire is the ground wire, and the yellow black are supposed to go into the black wire with the white stripe. Please help. I've almost got this thing figured out.

 

[shess]

The sync wire should just run from the MVS harness to the connector that plugs into the monitor chassis, just like the RGB lines. Looking at the pinout for the MVS harness, the sync wire should be pin P (composite sync, so if there are two sync wires, for horizontal and vertical, on the 3 pin connector from the monitor, just twist them together and wire to the single sync wire on the MVS harness) and video ground is pin 14: http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/Jamma2NeoGeo4SlotPinout.pdf .

 

[Devryn]

O.K. I think I have that figured out...But I'm not getting any picture and the monitor doesn't seem to be coming on at all.

Can someone take a picture of their connector that goes into their monitors PCB AND where that connector connects to the MVS harness? Also, the right two most plugs on the PCB are H and V negative, but I don't have any negative connections...Any ideas?

Is there some reason the monitor wouldn't seem to power on at all?

 

[shess]

The monitor not coming on is independent of the RGB wires. Make sure you get 120VAC on the wires hooked up to the power input on your monitor first. Also make sure you connected it to the two wires coming off the isolation transformer. If not, then don't touch it! You can take those H/V negative wires and just connect them to the single sync wire from the MVS harness.

Can you take a picture of the monitor chassis showing everything plugged in?

 

[Devryn]

Four pictures...First one is RGB connection, second is of the ground, third is power wires (red nut), fourth is power supply area. The white black power wires run from the monitor to the coil looking thing in the top right of the fourth picture. That in turn is passed through a noise filter (?) and onto the power supply.

A question about the other two connectors for the (-) side of the sync's...You mean I can run a lead off of the (+) sync and loop it to the negatives?

 

[Devryn]

Pulled the monitor out again. Looks like the fuse blew immediately. I put a 5 amp fuse in it...What is it supposed to have?

 

[shess]

I looked at some info online, it should be a 2amp slow-blow 250VAC fuse. If you replace that and it still blows, it'll need some more repair. There's a flow chart that can help repair that monitor. But you really need to have some electronics knowledge and know how to solder probably. Can you look on the chassis and confirm that it is a WG K7000 monitor chassis?

 

[Devryn]

A couple of things:

I'm going to buy the proper fuse at lunch, and won't have any idea if it works until 1830 AZ time...That being said:

IF it's still blowing fuses, is there an option OTHER than trying to repair this monitor? Honestly, this monitor is so complicated it intimidates me. Is there a way to hook up a standard monitor or LCD?

Second, I realize the links to the pictures are bad. I didn't delete them, but if anyone wants them for reference, they can be found in my photobuckets Neo Geo album here:

http://s221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/Neo Geo/

 

[shess]

If it's blowing fuses, it will require some sort of repair and circuit checking. I can't really think of a way around that. If you won't want to deal with it then you can hook up a standard PC/LCD monitor, but it will still require a little bit of work. Your board is designed for 15KHz (standard/CGA) resolution. A standard PC monitor is 31khz. This company sells a board that will take the input from your board and then let you output to a regular monitor: http://www.arcademvs.com/ARCADE_ACESSERIOR.htm . It's the Arcade RGBS CGA/EGA/VGA to VGA converter. Instead of connecting the video cable to the monitor chassis, you plug it into that board and then hook up a standard PC monitor to the VGA out. I've used one to hook up a standard jamma board to my PC monitor and it works fine. I don't think it will look as good as a real arcade monitor but if you have no other alternative....

You could also ask around to see if there's a local company that can repair arcade monitors, maybe even the guy you bought it from.

 

[PrairieDillo]

DO NOT PUT A LCD IN TO THIS.

you are far from that point. Get a quote from guys here on repair of the K7000 chassis. It's so common that many guys here can fix it.

Mod job is fixing this. Arcadecup is also recommended but w/ prices on the higher end.

Either way your monitor chassis is still fixable. Fuse blowing a picture coming up are two different issues. It doesn't look like you hooked the H/V syncs up to the right spot but I'll take some video of my setup when I have time this week.

I didn't think the chassis worked. (sellers can say whatever they want)

Also it looks like the chassis has never been capped. People will also tell you to change the flyback also since it has the notorious "white knobs' one

 

[Devryn]

DO NOT PUT A LCD IN TO THIS.

you are far from that point. Get a quote from guys here on repair of the K7000 chassis. It's so common that many guys here can fix it.

Mod job is fixing this. Arcadecup is also recommended but w/ prices on the higher end.

Either way your monitor chassis is still fixable. Fuse blowing a picture coming up are two different issues. It doesn't look like you hooked the H/V syncs up to the right spot but I'll take some video of my setup when I have time this week.

I didn't think the chassis worked. (sellers can say whatever they want)

Also it looks like the chassis has never been capped. People will also tell you to change the flyback also since it has the notorious "white knobs' one

Why not go with an LCD or standard monitor?

Also, you're right. it's wired wrong. I FINALLY found a good pinout with wire colors: