Neo Geo 4 slot cab, no picture

You have a k7000 chassis that needs a remote board, that's what the connector in your last pic is for. Without a remote board connector, you will have vertical collapse (among other problems, but you can't see those with a collapsed screen).

Post a wtb for a used one or grab a repro: https://www.twistywristarcade.com/monitor-components/1072-k7000-remote-board.html

Get the remote board hooked up before you mess with a cap kit. Judging by your 'heat gun' comment, I'm guessing you are new to soldering or very very Canadian :) If you don't know what you're doing, a cap kit can add to the problem list faster than the fixed list.

No no I'm very handy with soldering! And Canadian haha. did a couple of cap replacements on dead computer monitors :) I just did the heat gun thing to reflow the board if there was any cracks in the solder for good measure. So a remote board is holding my gaming back ? Ok I'm on the hunt!

EDIT : bought one from your link thanks!!
 
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Also can anyone shed some light as to what these micro switches are for? There's 5 extra ones wired up And that 7 pin connector ?
 
Man that cabinet is a mess. Those extra micros are probably extra button/joystick inputs you don't currently need. Some games needed extra buttons.
 
I'd like to thank twistywrist arcade for the remote board and everyone else who helped me get through this ....ITS ALLIVEEEEE :D just going through the adjustments now to make the picture look mint
 
Ok so next question , how to properly adjust the monitor ?? I can't seem to fill in the top and bottom of the screen without stretching the picture, the credits and level display then also disappear down when stretched. Simple adjustment or cap kit now?
 
The stretching can be adjusted out using the 50/60 hz pot. (Behind the h hold on the rear of the chassis) It would be best to make this adjustment with the cross hatch picture in the menu/tests.
 
The stretching can be adjusted out using the 50/60 hz pot. (Behind the h hold on the rear of the chassis) It would be best to make this adjustment with the cross hatch picture in the menu/tests.

The long white sorta looking thing in the back? I'll give it a go tomo and post results
 
This is be best I can get it...there's an inch on the top and the bottom of the screen that I can't fill. I could if I use the v-size but it just stretches everything and then when I turn the 50/60hrz in the back(assuming it's the long white thing with the Allen key slot in it) it doesn't do nothing when turned to the left or right. Any other suggestions ?
Edit: oh shit, I just noticed the pot I should hVe been turning was right behind the h hold...wtf is the thing with the Allen key slot then??
Edit: when I power on the cab , the jingle now sounds like it's playing super high notes :/
Edit: got the screen pretty good now, but i noticed I barely have a v-pos, it almost doesn't move the screen up or down.
 
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This is how it sounds now, was perfectly fine before I turned the thing im pointing at. All the games sound normal though

 
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That is the horizontal width coil. Only use plastic adjustment tools, never metal. Most of the time, with the brittleness/age of the plastic body, you are asking for trouble if you can't freely move the core.

That coil has nothing to do with your sound unless you snagged a speaker wire while your hand was in the monitor.
 
That is the horizontal width coil. Only use plastic adjustment tools, never metal. Most of the time, with the brittleness/age of the plastic body, you are asking for trouble if you can't freely move the core.

That coil has nothing to do with your sound unless you snagged a speaker wire while your hand was in the monitor.

What is it suppose to do? It does nothing when I turn it:/ it does turn freely. it's odd because I started up the game and it was fine , turned that width coil and then next boot was the weird jingle. Ugh it sounds so ugly.
 
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