Neo Geo 4 slot cab, no picture

Hrvat9

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Hey guys , picked up a Neo Geo 4 slot last night with a non working monitor. When powered up you can hear the Neo jingle , cycle through all four games and hear them playing but nothing on the monitor. No buzzing from the monitor , no glow on the neck, can't see any cracks on the fly back, and tested the monitor chassis fuse and the power cord (white , black)
That powers the monitor from the isolation transformer and they both fluctuate constantly from -0.05 to +0.05. I plugged in my 19" monitor into that same power cord and it turned on so I know it's not the wiring. Looks like a wg k7000 chassis. What's the next step?
Here are some pics




 
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You have no voltage registering on your black/white wires. Unplug the monitor's power cables, and retest the cabinet wiring for 120VAC. Make sure your meter is set to measure AC voltage.

Let us know what you get for AC voltage with the monitor's power cord disconnected. Measure it right at the plug; cabinet side of the wiring.
 
Well if the power from the ISO isn't 120VAC or so, then that's your first step.

Make sure power from the wall is getting split correctly to the switcher (sounds like it is if the game is running) and to the monitor (likely not if you can't read power through the ISO).

Check to see if the monitor power goes through an additional fuse and if it's good at the power supply area. Once you have monitor power then you can move forward.

Do you have a spare/mobile power supply testing station to plug directly to the monitor to test it?
 
Dam that was quick!! I'm still trying to take pictures ahah!
I will check right now and take pictures as I go
 
Well if the power from the ISO isn't 120VAC or so, then that's your first step.

Make sure power from the wall is getting split correctly to the switcher (sounds like it is if the game is running) and to the monitor (likely not if you can't read power through the ISO).
Check to see if the monitor power goes through an additional fuse and if it's good at the power supply area. Once you have monitor power then you can move forward.

Do you have a spare/mobile power supply testing station to plug directly to the monitor to test it?


The only fuse in the whole cab is on he monitor chassis board :/ couldn't find any other fuses anywhere ...the main power switch beside the test switch isn't plugged in also. There's no fuse beside the service or test switches either.

 
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Yeah, forgot they had that 150 watt power supply in there.
My Neo Geo has this guy in it....

http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=232

There's a 3 pin molex coming out for the ISO.
Like smalltownguy says, make sure the pins on that molex are reading 120VAC.

ON mine, the 3 bottom inputs on the ISO feed to that molex, I'm assuming yours does the same.
 
The only fuse in the whole cab is on he monitor chassis board :/ couldn't find any other fuses anywhere ...the main power switch beside the test switch isn't plugged in also. There's no fuse beside the service or test switches either.

That 4 pin molex *should* go to the power switch? Usually those 150 watt power supplies have a 4-pin on/off switch... if the one they used didn't, then it should just turn on when plugged in... does the on/off switch doe anything?
 
That 4 pin molex *should* go to the power switch? Usually those 150 watt power supplies have a 4-pin on/off switch... if the one they used didn't, then it should just turn on when plugged in... does the on/off switch doe anything?


Yup the switch does nothing! Nor is there a place to plug it in... Could my power supply be faulty?
I get all the correct voltage for the board , I checked right from the 9 pin molex. But the 3 pin coming out of the power supply going to iso read absolutely nothing :/?! As I am typing this I noticed the 12v on the 9 pin only read 10v so I went to turn it up and the power supply starts buzzing like crazy and drops to 0.86 and doesn't move. The 5v lines also read 0.86. I turned it off and on and it was working fine again until I tried to turn up the voltage, then it happened again
 
Yup the switch does nothing! Nor is there a place to plug it in... Could my power supply be faulty?
I get all the correct voltage for the board , I checked right from the 9 pin molex. But the 3 pin coming out of the power supply going to iso read absolutely nothing :/?! As I am typing this I noticed the 12v on the 9 pin only read 10v so I went to turn it up and the power supply starts buzzing like crazy and drops to 0.86 and doesn't move. The 5v lines also read 0.86. I turned it off and on and it was working fine again until I tried to turn up the voltage, then it happened again

yeah, if the 3-pin molex coming from the power supply is dead, then the power supply isn't doing something right on the inside.

If you feel like taking it apart and diagnosing it, that'd be where I'd go next.

Otherwise, my advice is to just buy a brand new one (the one from twisted quarter would allow that 4-pin on/off switch molex to be plugged in and do something again).
 
Yup the switch does nothing! Nor is there a place to plug it in... Could my power supply be faulty?
I get all the correct voltage for the board , I checked right from the 9 pin molex. But the 3 pin coming out of the power supply going to iso read absolutely nothing :/?! As I am typing this I noticed the 12v on the 9 pin only read 10v so I went to turn it up and the power supply starts buzzing like crazy and drops to 0.86 and doesn't move. The 5v lines also read 0.86. I turned it off and on and it was working fine again until I tried to turn up the voltage, then it happened again

Time for new power supply. I may have one for you.
 
yeah, if the 3-pin molex coming from the power supply is dead, then the power supply isn't doing something right on the inside.

If you feel like taking it apart and diagnosing it, that'd be where I'd go next.

Otherwise, my advice is to just buy a brand new one (the one from twisted quarter would allow that 4-pin on/off switch molex to be plugged in and do something again).

Could you point me in the direction of the new psu? What I don't get is how did my 19" monitor turn on when I plugged it in?
 
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See:/...I've got to be missing something or doing something wrong
 
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Wait, I see raster on that screen......with no sync lock. Does the monitor display ANYTHING when you turn the game on/off?

Nope just powers on and is i guess a greyish white screen which is how it always looks when powered up without a game, has some burn in in case you see something on the screen. Plus I only used that power cord from the Neo Geo iso, didn't plug in anything else as they're different plugs on the monitor chassis. I can't get a reading from that power cord yet it turns on this monitor ...I use it for my data east secret agent
 
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Okay got something going here ! Is this vertical collapse ? I can't adjust the screen at all since I'm missing the remote board...any one have a spare???

 
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Yes it is vertical collapse. You will get that without a remote board on a k7000. Don't run the monitor without a remote board :)
 
Yes it is vertical collapse. You will get that without a remote board on a k7000. Don't run the monitor without a remote board :)

I don't think the monitor chassis he has in there requires a remote board. He DOES have a remote board in the cabinet (probably from whatever monitor was originally installed in the cab) but the K7000 he's got in there now doesn't use one, at least I don't believe it does. I can't remember.

hrvat9, can you see a place to plug in that monitor remote adjustment board? I don't have complete pics of your monitor's main chassis pcb, so I can't tell.

Based on the way that I see that monitor chassis pcb mounted, I'm going to say someone swapped out the chassis at some point before the OP got this cabinet. Now it has vertical collapse. Could be something as simple cracked solder joints on the yoke connector.

EDIT: OK, I have had a chance to look at this more closely. It appears you DO have a remote board for that monitor, but it also looks like there's wiring for a 2nd remote board still in there too. That wiring harness with the long white connector on it near your monitor chassis, where does it go? Is there another remote board on the other end of it?
 
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I don't think the monitor chassis he has in there requires a remote board. He DOES have a remote board in the cabinet (probably from whatever monitor was originally installed in the cab) but the K7000 he's got in there now doesn't use one, at least I don't believe it does. I can't remember.

hrvat9, can you see a place to plug in that monitor remote adjustment board? I don't have complete pics of your monitor's main chassis pcb, so I can't tell.

Based on the way that I see that monitor chassis pcb mounted, I'm going to say someone swapped out the chassis at some point before the OP got this cabinet. Now it has vertical collapse. Could be something as simple cracked solder joints on the yoke connector.

EDIT: OK, I have had a chance to look at this more closely. It appears you DO have a remote board for that monitor, but it also looks like there's wiring for a 2nd remote board still in there too. That wiring harness with the long white connector on it near your monitor chassis, where does it go? Is there another remote board on the other end of it?

The adjustment knobs on the neck board are just 2 red 2 green and 2 blue adjustments
I looked through the whole cab as soon as I got it and noticed it's missing the remote board for the monitor. I don't have any sort of screen adjustment except H HOLD which has a knob on the monitor chassis, you can see it in the last pic. Everything else in that pic has a wire soldered to the chassis that goes to that 13 pin connector which has to be for a remote board. You have any idea where I can get one(remote board)??? So I hAve the vertical collapse because I don't have one plugged in? or should I do a cap kit? I went over the whole Chassis board with a heat gun before I even got the monitor to fire up
 
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You have a k7000 chassis that needs a remote board, that's what the connector in your last pic is for. Without a remote board connector, you will have vertical collapse (among other problems, but you can't see those with a collapsed screen).

Post a wtb for a used one or grab a repro: https://www.twistywristarcade.com/monitor-components/1072-k7000-remote-board.html

Get the remote board hooked up before you mess with a cap kit. Judging by your 'heat gun' comment, I'm guessing you are new to soldering or very very Canadian :) If you don't know what you're doing, a cap kit can add to the problem list faster than the fixed list.
 
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