Need to get rid of holes in my control pannel

INOVERMYHEAD

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Whats the best way to fill in holes on a metal control pannel??? when is all said and done i want it to be smooth and just have 1 joystick and 2 bottons. . Right now i have 2 joysticks and 12 buttons. . I was thinking of tack welding some sheet metal on the back side and skim coating some bondo over the holes, , ideas???

Note, i want it to be perfectly smooth when all is said and done. . .
 
CPs

I drill out slugs form 16 guage metal the same size as the holes. Weld them in place and skim them with bondo if I needed to make them smooth. It make both sides nice that way.
 
iam only worried about the side that shows, and your way is more work than i want to do. thanks though. . .
 
Now a good "no work" way is to drill your new holes, put an overlay over the panel, add plexi over that and forget the old holes are there. Not my preferred way. Just depends on what you want.
 
Iam cool with painting a turd gold. . As long as it looks good on the outside. . .
 
When I did my Pac-man control panel, I just epoxied some scrap metal (cut from the bottom of an Altoids tin actually) under the holes, filled them with bondo on top, then sanded smooth. Something like this: http://girasoli.org/arcade/?p=104 I sanded underneath the CP first to make a rough surface for the epoxy to bond to, and I painted both sides of the CP afterwards. I used the LePage 2-part '5 minute' epoxy and it worked well.
 
When I did my Pac-man control panel, I just epoxied some scrap metal (cut from the bottom of an Altoids tin actually) under the holes, filled them with bondo on top, then sanded smooth. Something like this: http://girasoli.org/arcade/?p=104 I sanded underneath the CP first to make a rough surface for the epoxy to bond to, and I painted both sides of the CP afterwards. I used the LePage 2-part '5 minute' epoxy and it worked well.


That is like what prok has posted on his website...

http://www.rgvac.com/blog/control-panel-restoration/
 
Has anyone ever used JB Weld to plug holes?
http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php

I have used it for a lot of things, but never even thought about trying to fill extra button holes.

I have read that you can use it, along with some tape, to fill holes. Never tried it.

Since it won't stick to tape, simply cover one side of the hole with tape (probably packing of duct tape) and fill the hole with JB Weld and smooth. I'd let it cure at least 24 hours before removing the tape. Maybe it will work...
 
I have read that you can use it, along with some tape, to fill holes. Never tried it.

Since it won't stick to tape, simply cover one side of the hole with tape (probably packing of duct tape) and fill the hole with JB Weld and smooth. I'd let it cure at least 24 hours before removing the tape. Maybe it will work...

Well I know where a lot of mutilated CP's are sitting. Next time i'm out that way I'll grab one and do some testing. If it works it would certainly be easier than welding/epoxy/bondo hole repair. It should be just as strong as those bondo fixes too.
 
JB Weld

I used JB weld to fill the holes on my food fight cp - the hols weren't as big as button holes, they were extra bolt holes, I clamped a piece of wood covered in aluminum foil to get a smooth finish on the top and filled from the rear, it turned out excellent.

Greg
 
I had some Pac cocktail panels with 8 extra holes on each. I used a cut up street sign on the back and bondo, they came out awesome. JB weld is good stuff but I would think you would still need some backing on button holes, having it smooth on both sides only gives it a tiny bit of metal to actually hold onto, unless you built up the JB on the underside.

I have a Ms. Pac upright I was going to do too but $28 for a new one it really isn't worth it. If I had to do cocktail ones again I would probably just go with the $45 new ones. I am all for rebuilding as much as possible but if a nice repro is available for a decent price that equals that much more time to do other things. Even with the bondo method a metal cp that doesn't have a full wrap overlay will take a lot of time to get it perfect.
 
I had a Star Wars panel drilled through all the bends, 9 holes, so I used Gorrilla glue, bought a piece of steel flashing at home depot, glued it to the panel, it will never fall off I can tell you, GG is the stuff...I then used bondo and covered it, sanded it, and it looks like new now....
 
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