Need some Data East Help - TMNT

gsrogers

Well-known member

Donor 2023-2024
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
6,398
Reaction score
1,108
Location
Friendswood, Texas
OK, I picked up a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.....the power supply board had a burn and repair that made it useless so I bought a Rottendog replacement. The game booted up fine and seemed to play. One note is the left sling shot does not fire and soon I smelled something. Sure enough the Q10 transistor cracked in half and the display stopped working. I replaced the transistor, checked the right sling diode (which is controlled by Q10), and started the game up again. I did not attach the special coil connector so I could see if Q10 would blow. Game booted right up, display works, and Q10 did not get hot. But as soon as I attach the connector Q10 starts to get hot. I disconnected the ground wire from the right sling coil but Q10 still gets hot.

Anyone have an idea where my short may be?

Thanks, Garry
 
I am on the hunt.....I found a stupid move I did....had the wires backwards on the left sling coil. Fixed that and now the bottom thumper sticks on. I will replace some more transistors. Keep ya posted.
 
Not to derail your topic, but are you sure the old PS is worthless? They're generally pretty repairable. It might not end up pretty, but is there any chance of salvaging it? Just curious.
 
I did keep it for a possible future fix but just do not have the time right now.

I am still having trouble with the coils. Now the lower and right jet bumpers stay on when I connect the connector. Chasing my tail. May have to ask for some local help.
 
Do you have a manual? Looking at my JP manual, it appears that CN 19 on the CPU board controls the pop bumpers. Have you checked the respective transistors on the CPU board that correspond to the pop bumpers?
 
I do have the manual....good point, I will be looking upstream to try and figure out just what is toast.
 
It is weird to have both out, but you never know. The knocker and the respective switched flash lamps on my DE SW weren't working. I traced it back to the small driver transistor on the CPU board. It had been replaced once in the past. The driver transistor next to it had also gone out in the past and been replaced.

In my situation, it is strange that it went out once in the past and again at a later time. I think what happened is the op removed the wires to the knocker and they shorted because they were loose in the cabinet but taped with electrical tape. Anyway, my story may not help you. I guess I'm trying to explain/justify weird things happening...
 
I did keep it for a possible future fix but just do not have the time right now.

I am still having trouble with the coils. Now the lower and right jet bumpers stay on when I connect the connector. Chasing my tail. May have to ask for some local help.

If a special solenoid is stuck on the switch that controls it is probably stuck closed. Either that or the logic behind the driver transistor is shorted. Assuming I'm reading this right and you've replaced the driver transistor with a good one. I would look at the switch first but don't assume the new driver transistor is still good once it's been stuck on for a while.
 
It was working but I may have shorted something while trying to diagnose this thing. I will end up replacing the 122 trans and working my way back.
 
Back
Top Bottom