need some Chase HQ internal pics pls

vintagegamer

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After checking the schem's it looks like my RFI Filter Board may be missing some crucial wiring, specifically at the A-F terminal block. Could someone snap a few pics of the inside of their machine for me? I am totally perplexed as to how this machine ever worked in the past without those wires!
 
Here is a pic from ilovegames' stash, where it's showing wires that mine currently does not have:

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I don't have any pix for you but I traced mine for you. The 6 pin connector closer to the back door in mine is wired as follows from L to R from the power supply to this connector.

Pins 1 & 2= +5.....Pin 5= +12.....Pin 6= -5

The 6 "screw pin" connector goes to the PCB.

Pins 1 & 2= +5.....Pin 5= +12.....Pin 6= -5

The +5's all had 2 wires ea so I'm sure they're going to both sides of the PCB at the +5. Pins 3 & 4 on both were empty.
 
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I don't have any pix for you but I traced mine for you. The 6 pin connector closer to the back door in mine is wired as follows from L to R from the power supply to this connector.

Pins 1 & 2= +5.....Pin 5= +12.....Pin 6= -5

The 6 "screw pin" connector goes to the PCB.

Pins 1 & 2= +5.....Pin 5= +12.....Pin 6= -5

The +5's all had 2 wires ea so I'm sure they're going to both sides of the PCB at the +5. Pins 3 & 4 on both were empty.

Thank you very much for checking these for me, T- I'm trying to figure out now how I should proceed, because as I mentioned in my earlier post, the only things currently not working are the steering and the shifter controls. I'm wondering if I should do the wiring from the PS to the 6-pin connector first, and then see if I'm getting voltages to the wires on that same board that currently aren't getting it? I'm just trying to understand how the game can be basically 95% functional without these remaining wires! It's so crazy.
 
They're probably not getting any power thru the board? Is there a smaller wire harness going to your steering and shifter coming from the pcb?
 
The board is a JAMMA configuration, should be fairly straight forward to hook up. Just add a standard switcher for power and call it a day.
 
The board is a JAMMA configuration, should be fairly straight forward to hook up. Just add a standard switcher for power and call it a day.

His power supply is not the problem. He's missing wires that lead from the power supply to the rf board and then to the pcb. No steering or shifter response.
 
They're probably not getting any power thru the board? Is there a smaller wire harness going to your steering and shifter coming from the pcb?

The only wiring going to the shifter and steering wheel is a harness that runs from the CP to a 9-pin molex connector, and then the wiring from the molex connector runs to that small RFI Filter board. In the pic below, the header connector on the far right (I think it's 16 pins with it not being in front of me at the moment?) contains the wiring coming from the shifter and steering wheel.
 
The board is a JAMMA configuration, should be fairly straight forward to hook up. Just add a standard switcher for power and call it a day.

Thanks for the input- There's already one switcher in there already that's powering the monitor and game boardset. It just looks like someone forgot some other required wires.

The prior owner said he got the machine at an auction and never got around to fixing it so I don't know what kind of prior life it has had. :(
 
I love this game. Too bad they all seem to be inoperable. Good luck getting it fixed and post a video if you do!
 
I love this game. Too bad they all seem to be inoperable. Good luck getting it fixed and post a video if you do!

I'm gonna try my best. I found a 6-pin connector in my pile of parts, so I will try to wire it up the way Terminator has indicated and see if that makes a difference (hopefully it will).
 
The only wiring going to the shifter and steering wheel is a harness that runs from the CP to a 9-pin molex connector, and then the wiring from the molex connector runs to that small RFI Filter board. In the pic below, the header connector on the far right (I think it's 16 pins with it not being in front of me at the moment?) contains the wiring coming from the shifter and steering wheel.

I'm gonna try my best. I found a 6-pin connector in my pile of parts, so I will try to wire it up the way Terminator has indicated and see if that makes a difference (hopefully it will).

I have a full wiring harness and spare parts in my garage somewhere. If it he,ps, I'll hunt down the connector you need and send it your way :)

Let me know.

Cheers
 
I have a full wiring harness and spare parts in my garage somewhere. If it he,ps, I'll hunt down the connector you need and send it your way :)

Let me know.

Cheers

Thanks for the offer- one of the biggest things that would help me with this is, could you possibly look to see HOW these missing wires of mine are tied into that harness? Specifically, was this a SEPARATE harness from the other wiring? I am beside myself as to how these wires could be missing because nothing in my cab looks like it's been cut or hacked. We're talking Twilight Zone here!
 
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Leave those power wires alone. Look closely at your picture. I have attached a copy and circled where the power wires have been removed from the board and spliced together thus bypassing the RF filter board altogether. Whoever did it did a nice job of it by using heat shrink tubing over the splices.

This was done from a service bulletin years ago. What happened was the power wiring to/from the RF filter board was burning the connectors causing the gameboard to not operate (game not booted due to no power). I have done this on several Chase HQ and Continental Circuit machines myself. There would be service calls where the board did not power up and there would just be raster on the monitor. You'd wiggle the wires on the RF Filter board and suddenly the game was working again. Naturally, two hours later the location would call back saying, "that game is doing the same thing again....it's out of order". By bypassing the power connections on the filter board, you never have that power up problem again.

As to the "no steering" problem, it's caused by the gas pedal assembly not working properly. Either the microswitch (or wiring to it) is not working or the sector gear is not actuating the microswitch at the correct time. Once the gas pedal is working properly, then the steering will work. I've found the sector gear works out of position on it's shaft.
 

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Leave those power wires alone. Look closely at your picture. I have attached a copy and circled where the power wires have been removed from the board and spliced together thus bypassing the RF filter board altogether. Whoever did it did a nice job of it by using heat shrink tubing over the splices.

This was done from a service bulletin years ago. What happened was the power wiring to/from the RF filter board was burning the connectors causing the gameboard to not operate (game not booted due to no power). I have done this on several Chase HQ and Continental Circuit machines myself. There would be service calls where the board did not power up and there would just be raster on the monitor. You'd wiggle the wires on the RF Filter board and suddenly the game was working again. Naturally, two hours later the location would call back saying, "that game is doing the same thing again....it's out of order". By bypassing the power connections on the filter board, you never have that power up problem again.

As to the "no steering" problem, it's caused by the gas pedal assembly not working properly. Either the microswitch (or wiring to it) is not working or the sector gear is not actuating the microswitch at the correct time. Once the gas pedal is working properly, then the steering will work. I've found the sector gear works out of position on it's shaft.

Ken, you are incredible. Without you I would have had no prior knowledge of this scenario you are describing. Just.. Amazing.

As for the steering/gas pedal dilemma, I can tell you why I *think* the gas pedal is working, but you may need to confirm this: when the game is on, if you look at the taillights on the Porsche, they are red as if the brake is on by default. When you hit the gas pedal, the brake lights go 'off' on the car on the screen. So, the switch is sending some type of activity to the PCB, the question is if it's working 100% correctly or not. I have also noticed though, that right when the game starts, you lose one of the 'turbo' blasts right from the get-go. I didn't think the game would function that way by making you lose one turbo by default, so something definitely still sounds messed up there.

I am still shaking my head in awe that you caught that heatsink mod/fix. I had not caught that (then again I haven't worked on one of these HQ's before either).

The wiring going from the pedal to the boardset is the original wiring I'm pretty sure, but it looks like it's pulled pretty tight over the switcher and PS. I'll look again to see if something there isn't right.

Thanks Ken!!
 
Could the sensor on the steering wheel assembly that detects left and right position be bad?

I'm just throwing out possibilities are there of things to look at, although the issue with the game using one turbo boost right off the get go, makes me believe there is some wiring issue. Double check all the wiring and connections. If there's one thing I know, is from owning an Operation Wolf, Continental Circuit and Chase HQ, these older Taitos are a bit of a nightmare when it comes to wiring. I'm willing to bet it's either wiring related or that sensor in the wheel.
 
A friend has several Chase HQ and Continental Circuit machines on location and I modded all the power wiring to make them reliable. I know at least one of his Continental Circuits and one Chase HQ are on location at least 150 miles from me.

Anyway, back to the gas pedal. When you step on the gas pedal, you should hear the microswitch click. Also, I'm going by memory here, but I believe the switch had the wires connected only to the "common" and "normally open" terminals. The switch contacts close when you step on the gas pedal. Check the contacts with an ohm meter to be sure the switch is good internally. The gas pedal assembly does unbolt and the wires slide off the microswitch so you can bring the assembly out to look at/work on it.

One time I did find cold solder joints on the steering board connector pins.
 
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