Need some basic side art application tips

ItsAnAgent

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Looking to finally apply my NOS Sunset Rider's side art tomorrow, and wanted some tips on the best way to do it. I've been searching the restoration section of the forums, but everything is so scattered and doesn't apply to my case. Here are the basics of what I need to do.

I currently have 18 year old artwork that through some way, probably age and being bent, have become a bit detached from the paper it's on in a few places. This leads me to believe that the artwork will be poor adhesion wise in some areas when I stick it on. I'm thinking I'll need the help of a spray on adhesive, though I don't know with what or where to start. The artwork is going on unpainted particle board, like the previous artwork that was taken off. (It seemed fine and rather adhesive itself) I'm a beginner at this stuff so I'm not sure if I should paint/sand the wood before I start or not. Also unsure of how the soap method works that has been suggested to me.

Any tips or links to relevant topics would be very appreciated. Thanks.
 
The artwork is going on unpainted particle board, like the previous artwork that was taken off.
That doesn't sound possible, do you have pics of the cabinet?

(It seemed fine and rather adhesive itself) I'm a beginner at this stuff so I'm not sure if I should paint/sand the wood before I start or not. Also unsure of how the soap method works that has been suggested to me.

Any tips or links to relevant topics would be very appreciated. Thanks.
If the particle board really wasn't painted or otherwise primed, you should paint it before applying the new side art.
 
I don't know the cab off hand but I do know that many cabs that look like their side art was applied directly to particle board actually had a clear coat that helped art stick to the cab. I would not even consider trying to get your art to stick to the cab without first painting it. I am 99% sure the art will not stay on unpainted wood.
 
I have the same predicament with my 720. I stripped all of the vinyl off with a heat gun, so now I have clean particle board. I was debating myself whether I should prime it before applying my new vinyl kit, or whether I should just place it over the particle board. This guy here used a quick drying polyurethane which he sanded down/roughened up prior to placement of his vinyl over particle board:

http://www.ataricade.com/720restoration.htm

I'll probably just go with primer myself because I have some, plus it should fill in minor pits a little better. However, I'm going to make sure it dries for several days before application of the vinyl. Some people will say that paint/primer may de-gas for up to 30 days after painting. I'm just going to have to take that chance, because I'm not going to wait that long...
 
I have the same predicament with my 720. I stripped all of the vinyl off with a heat gun, so now I have clean particle board. I was debating myself whether I should prime it before applying my new vinyl kit, or whether I should just place it over the particle board. This guy here used a quick drying polyurethane which he sanded down/roughened up prior to placement of his vinyl over particle board:

http://www.ataricade.com/720restoration.htm

I'll probably just go with primer myself because I have some, plus it should fill in minor pits a little better. However, I'm going to make sure it dries for several days before application of the vinyl. Some people will say that paint/primer may de-gas for up to 30 days after painting. I'm just going to have to take that chance, because I'm not going to wait that long...

That is former KLOVer Nash, and Poly is the way to go. Though primer is great to paint on, it isn't a great surface to adhere artwork to. Also, they polyed it at the factory, so why use primer 'just cuz you have it'? Quart of poly will cost you about $7. If you have bare part board, lightly sand, put on a quart of semi-gloss or satin poly. No question.
 
Alright, so say I sand down the particle board and then I paint it with polyurethane, (or is it the other way around) then do I just apply or is there a better way to ensure it sticks
 
Alright, so say I sand down the particle board and then I paint it with polyurethane, (or is it the other way around) then do I just apply or is there a better way to ensure it sticks

You need to make sure the poly cures 2-3 days (at least) before application, and clean the surface with denatured alcohol before starting.
 
first make sure the particle board is gonna be smooth and free of gouges, divots ect. This stuff can show through vinyl so if you want the end result to look top notch you will want to fill any of these defects with bondo. Then sand. Or if you didn't need any bondo, just sand a bit so the surface is smooth. Then apply the poly, let dry. Check to make sure the dried surface is relatively smooth. If it has some spots where dust or whatever got in the poly and caused bumps you might want to lightly sand with something like 220 grit ( or higher)paper. Remember, "lightly" as you don't want to remove the poly completely. After you sand I would suggest wiping the cab down with a tack cloth to remove the dust from sanding. Then wipe the cab down with a rag and 99% alcohol. After all this you are ready to apply your art.
 
Surface prep is key. If the base is bare wood you will want to seal it up with your favorite medium. I prefer polyurethane. Some use paint but what ever you use make sure it seals the wood and it will level the grain some as well. Once you have a good base how you apply the graphics is an individual choice. For side art you can do it dry with the "hinge" method. Basically use masking tape to secure the side art in place. Remove the tape from the top so you can fold it down and remove about 3~4 inches of backing. Cut the backing paper off. I use a squeegee then roll the top section you just removed the backing from on your cabinet.
Roll it firmly in places with the squeegee then using a soft towel and firm pressure. Once this is firmly in place remove the rest of the tape,swing the decal upward to peel the backing off a few inches. Let it fold down and with your left hand pull the backing paper down while using the squeegee with your right hand following it down the cabinet/art work to the end.

It sounds a lot harder than it is but works well.

You can also use the "wet" method using Rapidtac or Windex but the drying time will be several days. It does allow you to float it in position. Using the wet method you would spray the cabinet surface,remove the decal backing and spray it also. Slap it on the cabinet where you want it. Spray the surface of the decal with your application fluid then squeegee off the decal from the center out.
 
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