Devryn
New member
Do you know if that yellow stuff that leaked out of something is from that cap?
Need Monitor repair estimate
- Thread starter Devryn
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Do you know if that yellow stuff that leaked out of something is from that cap?
I think it's glue. Used to hold some caps in place. Sometimes they got a little crazy with it at the factory.
mecha
Well-known member
some chassis by WG either have a small amount of epoxy (??) on them, others have it jizzed all over the place.
yours looks like a case of the latter. I don't think that one cap leaked it out at all.
yours looks like a case of the latter. I don't think that one cap leaked it out at all.
That stuff looks like some of the adhesive or whatever used to seal that shutdown adjustment pot.
shess
Active member
Did you try powering it up again when you bent the pins back in place? It might start working again. It does look like the neckboard was removed and then shoved back on hard without regard for the pins. I would either pay to have your board repaired or get another k7000 board instead of some random generic chassis.
Devryn
New member
Yeah I did. It still shorted, even without the neckboard or the degauss wire hooked up.
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
1) that is glue, not leaking, on those components.
2) Of course, no fuse means it won't work.
3) If those diodes are shorted, then someone most likely plugged it in without using an isolation transformer. The voltage regulator is probably bad, too.
4) Your flyback has white knobs. That model is recommended for replacement.
5) Are you sure this isn't a med-res chassis? That little board on top of the flyback is usally added to the med-res versions. And it doesn't look hooked up. I wonder if someone tried to change a med-res to a standard-res (or vice versa) and screwed it up.
Well, it can be fixed - and will most likely cost near the higher end of the range I mentioned earlier - but if it's a med-res and you need a standard-res, then it won't work for you - even if it's fixed. And buying a replacement chassis won't work because the med-res yoke won't work with the standard-res replacement chassis.
So - the next thing to do is look for a label on the yoke and put that number here. Then we can check it against known yokes to see if we can ID it.
BTW - if that sticker on the bracket over the flyback says "7191", then it is a standard-res chassis. And it can be fixed....
2) Of course, no fuse means it won't work.
3) If those diodes are shorted, then someone most likely plugged it in without using an isolation transformer. The voltage regulator is probably bad, too.
4) Your flyback has white knobs. That model is recommended for replacement.
5) Are you sure this isn't a med-res chassis? That little board on top of the flyback is usally added to the med-res versions. And it doesn't look hooked up. I wonder if someone tried to change a med-res to a standard-res (or vice versa) and screwed it up.
Well, it can be fixed - and will most likely cost near the higher end of the range I mentioned earlier - but if it's a med-res and you need a standard-res, then it won't work for you - even if it's fixed. And buying a replacement chassis won't work because the med-res yoke won't work with the standard-res replacement chassis.
So - the next thing to do is look for a label on the yoke and put that number here. Then we can check it against known yokes to see if we can ID it.
BTW - if that sticker on the bracket over the flyback says "7191", then it is a standard-res chassis. And it can be fixed....
Devryn
New member
Supposedly the monitor is original to this Neo Geo MVS 4-25 Ver 3 cabinet.
Fuse blows as soon as the power is switched on.
What's an isolation transformer? Is that this:
Sticker looks like it says "Y49X7191"
PM me if you are interested in fixing it for your max quoted price of 125 including shipping and how we can make arrangements to make that happen. Also, let me know how long it would take you to do once you receive the chassis.
Devryn
New member
I'd really like to get this thing refurbished by someone who knows what they're doing. Mod hasn't messaged me back, so does anyone have any other suggestions? Is there anyone in the Tucson/Phoenix area that does this?
arcadecup
Well-known member
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If you would like it repaired, rebuilt right not having to stress about it again i would be happy to be of sevice.
If you decide to ship your board(s) in for repair:
You may include a personal check or money order in the box written out to arcadecup.com
You may also pay with a credit card over the phone or written down on the repair form.
Another option is through PayPal. You may do this before or after its ready to ship back repaired.
To help keep order with your repair please print, fill out, and include this monitor repair form in the box.
(repair form on website under repair forms tab)
Repair Form in .pdf format→ RepairForm PDF
Repair Form in .txt format → Repair Form TXT
Please ship to:
Chad Entringer
1233 Emilie St
Green Bay, Wi 54301
The address to ship to is also on the repair form.
If you decide to ship your board(s) in for repair:
You may include a personal check or money order in the box written out to arcadecup.com
You may also pay with a credit card over the phone or written down on the repair form.
Another option is through PayPal. You may do this before or after its ready to ship back repaired.
To help keep order with your repair please print, fill out, and include this monitor repair form in the box.
(repair form on website under repair forms tab)
Repair Form in .pdf format→ RepairForm PDF
Repair Form in .txt format → Repair Form TXT
Please ship to:
Chad Entringer
1233 Emilie St
Green Bay, Wi 54301
The address to ship to is also on the repair form.
Devryn
New member
Honestly, the only reason I haven't filled out your form yet is your lead time. You come highly recommended, but I wanted to check if anyone had a shorter lead time first. I am, admittedly, impatient. LOL
eh97ac
Member
Setup an exchange!
You board + $$$ for a working board. There are at least 3-5 guys who would do this and 2 of them are in this thread.
You board + $$$ for a working board. There are at least 3-5 guys who would do this and 2 of them are in this thread.
Devryn
New member
If I'm offered that, I'll be all over it!
arcadecup
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Sounds good no worries.. thanks for the feedback much apreciated.
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
I didn't message you back because your message stated:
So, I answered in your thread. I've already posted here an approximate cost (in reply #2), and I answered your other questions here.
If you want me to do it, then PM me for my address. Right now, it'll take me about 2 weeks from when I get it for you to get it back. Maybe quicker if I get some others done faster....
Devryn
New member
I didn't mean offense. I did PM you yesterday, before you posted in this thread by a few hours.
Weird...It doesn't show in sent. I apologize for that confusion...
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
This chassis has been repaired.
1) Bad flyback (cracked completely around the focus pot)
2) Shorted diodes D20 and D21.
3) Open resistor R103
4) Numerous trace/pad/solder issues
5) Installed cap kit
6) Broken Contrast pot
1) Bad flyback (cracked completely around the focus pot)
2) Shorted diodes D20 and D21.
3) Open resistor R103
4) Numerous trace/pad/solder issues
5) Installed cap kit
6) Broken Contrast pot
shess
Active member
There's no way that could have been sold working and then all those parts broke. It would have had to take some serious physical damage in transit. But it's good that it's all fixed now. Hopefully the tube is ok with that bent up pin. At least now you can continue with the restoration.
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
it couldn't have worked with the diodes and resistor bad, no, but could have worked with those parts good. A cracked flyback like this one can still work, and you still get a pic with a broken contrast pot that can be adjusted with the brightness pot. And sometimes traces work fine one moment and not the next.
Usually those diodes blow when it is hooked up without an iso, although the owner assured me the cab had one and he hasn't tried powering it without it...
Usually those diodes blow when it is hooked up without an iso, although the owner assured me the cab had one and he hasn't tried powering it without it...
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As I mentioned before. There would be no reason why they took that chassis off the monitor unless there was an issue. It would have been easier just to pull the whole monitor intact since it was a restoration job.
I fell for something like that one time when someone tried to sell me a cab saying that the monitor worked but the cab had the power cable only ripped out.
At least I got it basically cheap but only paid what I thought for a cab with a blown monitor. The sad thing was that the tube had lost vacuum so I couldn't repair it. I had to wait till this summer's fresno haul where I got a K7000 for $30!!!!
I fell for something like that one time when someone tried to sell me a cab saying that the monitor worked but the cab had the power cable only ripped out.
At least I got it basically cheap but only paid what I thought for a cab with a blown monitor. The sad thing was that the tube had lost vacuum so I couldn't repair it. I had to wait till this summer's fresno haul where I got a K7000 for $30!!!!
