Devryn
New member
Will this be good enough for the tests I need to do on the board of this thing?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4214667
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4214667
Need Monitor repair estimate
- Thread starter Devryn
- Start date
That meter looks fine to me. Make sure it also has a continuity check setting.
Do you have this K7000 manual?
http://www.dosmame.mameworld.info/data/_uploaded/image/dos.other.wg-k7000.pdf
I've not looked but it should tell you the number of pins you are supposed to have. Yours look really bent and messed up to me though.
Do you have this K7000 manual?
http://www.dosmame.mameworld.info/data/_uploaded/image/dos.other.wg-k7000.pdf
I've not looked but it should tell you the number of pins you are supposed to have. Yours look really bent and messed up to me though.
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modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
I've seen tubes with the end of the nipple sheared like that and still work. And that bent pin should be straightened carefully.
That being said, whether the tube is cracked or not, if you hook it up with the neckboard unplugged, and it still blows the fuse, then the tube (or bent pin) is not causing your fuse to blow.
Make sure you are connecting the black wire from the tube to the neckboard when testing, as that WILL cause the fuse (and other parts) to blow if it's not connected...
That being said, whether the tube is cracked or not, if you hook it up with the neckboard unplugged, and it still blows the fuse, then the tube (or bent pin) is not causing your fuse to blow.
Make sure you are connecting the black wire from the tube to the neckboard when testing, as that WILL cause the fuse (and other parts) to blow if it's not connected...
Devryn
New member
I cannot begin to tell you how much I appreciate all the advice. I bought A multimeter today at lunch....does anyone know of a good walkthrough or video on testing and how to? I've never donee anything like this before, but there's no time like the present to learn right?
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Google is your friend - "How to use a multimeter"
Well it depends on what you want or need to test.
If you want to test the HOTt like Mod mentions in his first post, the manual you have or the one I posted, will and should tell you the value you are looking for and where to test.
Continutiy like I mentioend can be used for many things. Once its set for it, probably have to move the leads on the meter too, you can attach one lead to one end of a wire, the other lead to the other end and if the meter beeps, that tells you the wire is not broken.
You can also use this setting to check your work after you solder things and to test resistors. You can use it to check fuses too, same setting, continuity...
Judging from you monitor pics and all the dust that's on it, it looks like its all original, thus it will probably need a cap kit at the least. But first is to try and get it to power and stay on.
Look in the manual to see if all the pins are supposed to be populated. Then straighten any that are bent.
On a side note, look here or google on how to discharge a monitor, so you do not shock the crap out of yourself, or worse!
Second, the anode cup, is the suchtion cup looking thing with a large wire going to it. You discharge the monitor from under it.
If you want to test the HOTt like Mod mentions in his first post, the manual you have or the one I posted, will and should tell you the value you are looking for and where to test.
Continutiy like I mentioend can be used for many things. Once its set for it, probably have to move the leads on the meter too, you can attach one lead to one end of a wire, the other lead to the other end and if the meter beeps, that tells you the wire is not broken.
You can also use this setting to check your work after you solder things and to test resistors. You can use it to check fuses too, same setting, continuity...
Judging from you monitor pics and all the dust that's on it, it looks like its all original, thus it will probably need a cap kit at the least. But first is to try and get it to power and stay on.
Look in the manual to see if all the pins are supposed to be populated. Then straighten any that are bent.
On a side note, look here or google on how to discharge a monitor, so you do not shock the crap out of yourself, or worse!
Second, the anode cup, is the suchtion cup looking thing with a large wire going to it. You discharge the monitor from under it.
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I've been following your posts for a bit on this MVS. By the way that he took out the chassis and litterally was cutting stuff that could have been easily unplugged, I don't think he cared much for the machine or knew what he was doing.
It goes to show why the tube neck seems damaged and the chassis was in such need of work.
Unless you got a near free deal, I question the character of this guy. I've sold a fully working 4 slot with 4 carts in a water logged machine 100% working for only $200 before... I could have parted it out for more.
Devryn
New member
I only paid $100 for it.
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ok, the board is worth more than that.
Also, read this complete thread a couple of times. There's so much to glean from it.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=143645
Also, read this complete thread a couple of times. There's so much to glean from it.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=143645
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Devryn
New member
O.K. So the monitor is powered by the coil thing on the bottom of the cabinet. I have a white and black power wire that run from the top of it, and along side that, connected to the L-bracket foot of this coil thing, is a ground wire. Am I supposed to run the ground wire to the frame of this monitor chassis? What good does that do?
Is there another ground for the power to the monitor that I'm missing? Maybe that's why it's blowing fuses?
Is there another ground for the power to the monitor that I'm missing? Maybe that's why it's blowing fuses?
Can't help you, as I have no experience with this monitor myself. And I personally do not know in general what would cause a montior fuse to blow, I've never had a monitor with an issue like that.
However, all the ground wires should be connected. I had one on my most recent monitor that was not when I got it, but it is now.
See what someone says here, if not I would take a pic of it and start a new thread.
However, all the ground wires should be connected. I had one on my most recent monitor that was not when I got it, but it is now.
See what someone says here, if not I would take a pic of it and start a new thread.
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
No. You'll blow a fuse on a K7000 either due to a defective part, or by not connecting the wire I mentioned earlier which will cause defective parts...
Modessitt is mentioning the dag wire a few posts back - this is a gound wire that goes from a metal strap around the monitor tube to the neck board. Maybe I missed it, but were you able to confirm that the dag wire is still connected to the neck board?
Devryn
New member
Is this the wire you're referring to? I have the two ends wire-nutted together along the path that I highlighted in yellow (from the metal strap to the neck board). Is that the right path?
That's the dag wire, alright. As long as it goes straight from the neck board to the ground strap, you're fine with that wire.
Do you not have an AC plug on that chassis?
Do you not have an AC plug on that chassis?
Devryn
New member
The only power connection that I know of are to the left of the flyback (is that the right term). Its the white and black wires that you can see there in the pic.
Devryn
New member
Anyone ever just bought a complete replacement? Advantages and disadvantages?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360285346545#vi-content
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360285346545#vi-content
If you're going to go that route, I call first dibs on your broken chassis. 
But in all seriousness, if you wanted to go that way, you could, just be sure to have a dialogue with someone at Twisted Quarter first before buying the replacement chassis.
A lot of the universal replacements out there are pretty shoddy quality. So as long as TQ is willing to back up their item, then you should be OK. But I'd still call them first.
I'd fix the problem chassis myself, but that's just me. I'm not the only one that will say that the older OEM stuff is easier to service & repair than the newer repro stuff.
But in all seriousness, if you wanted to go that way, you could, just be sure to have a dialogue with someone at Twisted Quarter first before buying the replacement chassis.
A lot of the universal replacements out there are pretty shoddy quality. So as long as TQ is willing to back up their item, then you should be OK. But I'd still call them first.
I'd fix the problem chassis myself, but that's just me. I'm not the only one that will say that the older OEM stuff is easier to service & repair than the newer repro stuff.
Devryn
New member
Fml
O.K. There is NO WAY this monitor worked before I got it.
D20 and D21, with the multimeter on the continuity check gave me 0.00 (not OL). The other two gave me .5something. So, from what I've read, THOSE are bad. I tested those first, because they seemed the easiest things to check. Around those D's is some sort of substance. It looks like it MAY have leaked from the capacitor that's there, but I REALLY don't know. That's the first picture. The rest of the pictures are detailed pics of the board, and methinks SOMEONE FUBAR'D a repair job. You'll see what I mean. What else should I check, or should I give up on this board Chassis?
High res quadrant shots of the back of the board.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173409.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173404.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173358.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173351.jpg
O.K. There is NO WAY this monitor worked before I got it.
D20 and D21, with the multimeter on the continuity check gave me 0.00 (not OL). The other two gave me .5something. So, from what I've read, THOSE are bad. I tested those first, because they seemed the easiest things to check. Around those D's is some sort of substance. It looks like it MAY have leaked from the capacitor that's there, but I REALLY don't know. That's the first picture. The rest of the pictures are detailed pics of the board, and methinks SOMEONE FUBAR'D a repair job. You'll see what I mean. What else should I check, or should I give up on this board Chassis?
High res quadrant shots of the back of the board.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173409.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173404.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173358.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd275/Devryn/IMG_20110126_173351.jpg
Those pics all look normal. Many of the diodes and jumpers you see soldered to the foil side of the board are undocumented improvements made by Wells Gardner after the fact.
I had a board that looked just like that in many respects, and after I replaced the flyback, it worked like a champ.
At least you have your horizontal width coil in one piece. Many times that's broken or about to break.
My suggestion would be to get ahold of Randy Fromm's flowchart for this monitor, and start troubleshooting it. Learn to use the basic functions of your digital multimeter, and dive in.
I had a board that looked just like that in many respects, and after I replaced the flyback, it worked like a champ.
At least you have your horizontal width coil in one piece. Many times that's broken or about to break.
My suggestion would be to get ahold of Randy Fromm's flowchart for this monitor, and start troubleshooting it. Learn to use the basic functions of your digital multimeter, and dive in.
