Need Monitor repair estimate

Devryn

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I need a monitor repair estimate and recommendations on where to get it done. I have a 25" K7000 Wells Gardner. This stuff is beyond me, but this thing blows a fuse as soon as it's powered on. I'd rather not spend 150+. I'm in Coolidge AZ if there's anyone that can help out.
 
If it blows the fuse then the VR might be blown, and maybe the HOT and possibly the flyback. Probably have a shorted C38, and maybe a few other parts as well.

I - and a few others - will fix it for $50 + parts + shipping. A flyback, cap kit, VR, and HOT will cost you about $40, so figure $90 + shipping (usually about $15). Parts that aren't replaced will lower the price. Additional parts (like the critical safety cap, vertical IC, width coil, etc) will increase it.

So, you can imagine a total price (with shipping back to you) to be between $65 (if you've already replaced the parts but can't figure out why it's not working and no other parts are needed) and $105 (with 90% of the worst-case parts replaced), possibly a little more if those other 10% need replacing. Add in the shipping you pay to get it to us, and the price becomes between $80 and $125.

So, it's up to you who and what you want to pay...
 
If it blows the fuse then the VR might be blown, and maybe the HOT and possibly the flyback. Probably have a shorted C38, and maybe a few other parts as well.

I - and a few others - will fix it for $50 + parts + shipping. A flyback, cap kit, VR, and HOT will cost you about $40, so figure $90 + shipping (usually about $15). Parts that aren't replaced will lower the price. Additional parts (like the critical safety cap, vertical IC, width coil, etc) will increase it.

So, you can imagine a total price (with shipping back to you) to be between $65 (if you've already replaced the parts but can't figure out why it's not working and no other parts are needed) and $105 (with 90% of the worst-case parts replaced), possibly a little more if those other 10% need replacing. Add in the shipping you pay to get it to us, and the price becomes between $80 and $125.

So, it's up to you who and what you want to pay...
So what would I have to send you, and how would I prepare it? Obviously I wouldn't send the tube and everything right?
 
Correct. You would remove the chassis from the frame including the neckboard (discharge the tube first, if the fuse is blowing it might not have discharged). There is a black wire from the tube to the neckboard that will need to be cut, then reattached when it returns.

If you're interested, PM me for my address, or ask for other quotes...
 
Correct. You would remove the chassis from the frame including the neckboard (discharge the tube first, if the fuse is blowing it might not have discharged). There is a black wire from the tube to the neckboard that will need to be cut, then reattached when it returns.

If you're interested, PM me for my address, or ask for other quotes...

How do you discharge the tube? Also, does this look right to you? Looks like pins are missing to me, and OBVIOUSLY one of them is severely bent:

IMG_20110124_213321.jpg

IMG_20110124_213310.jpg
 
You can try straightening it out but that pin guide is cooked pretty good and really should be replaced. You can go through the discharge process just to familiarize yourself with how it's done but don't be disappointed when you find nothing there.
 
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my 2 cents... as teased above, I think your tube is no good. broken glass nipple.

means the glass seal of the tube is broken open and it's imploded.
 
It should be like a melted end of glass, sealed closed.

The tip of yours looks to be broken off. Look at the tip and see if it has a cracked off edge, with a hole on the end of it now from the break.
 
A couple of more questions:

The degauss wire...I don't see anything that indicates which way it should be plugged into the board. Can it be plugged in either way?

Also, if the fuse is blowing, and I remove the degauss wire, would that curb that initial surge when the monitor comes on, and possibly prevent it from blowing?

Are you guys SURE that tube/glass nipple is broken?

Are you SURE it's supposed to have pins in those two spots that it looks like have broken holes?

The guy who sold it to me sent me a picture of it working just fine. I'm usually a good judge of character and he truely seems like an honest guy.

arcadegames015.jpg

arcadegames012.jpg
 
This post has pics how one should look. However if he sent you pics of it working and now its not, what happened? I can't comment on the degause wire with this monitor. You shuld be able to run it without the degause connected though, the monitor will not are that its gone, just like if it were not functioning.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=168431
 
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That last picture looks like it's showing a crack in the tube's neck. Sure looks like a hairline crack running up the right hand side. It's kinda hard to tell from that super close-up blurry picture.

Edward

Edward
 
The glass "nipple" at the end looks sheered or broken off, but there is no crack that I can see. The big questions are : 1. is that nipple supposed to look like that (ie is that just where it was broken out of the mold)
2. Is it missing a pin?
 
Look inside of the connector that you pulled off of the back of the tube neck. Are the missing pins still inside of the connector?

Also, look closely at the tube nipple. Is it OPEN? That is, does it still look sealed up, or is there a small hole that you could insert the end of a paper clip into?

If there is a hole, you will need a new tube.

How did the board come off of the back of the tube? Was it bumped? Did it come like that? Did somebody pull it off too forcefully? (bending the pin in the process?)
 
The board was loose, and I gently pulled it off. It had the bent pin when I pulled it off. It was like it was jammed on and bent a pin, and just left that way.

There is no pin inside of the connector in either of the spots it looks like it's missing from the tube.

There are no holes at the end of the tube.
 
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