Need help with Super Orbit Project

DixieDawg

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Hi,

I just got a Gottleib Super Orbit that was not working and I need some help getting it going. It is a System 80A. The playfield lights work, just needed to be replaced. However, it does not coin up or play. It has a "0" on the Player 1 and 2 display and on the Credit display. There are no lights on the back box. Also the sound card self test will play. So far, I have tested the bridge rectifiers. I got 13.9v DC across the 12v "Alimentation" rectifier, 10.9v DC across the 6v "lamps" and 28.3v DC across the 24v "Controlled Solenoid" Rectifier. I also checked the AC input voltages on the rectifiers and got 12v AC on the first, 9.1v AC on the second and this seemed strange to me, 30.3V AC on the last one. That means that the rectifier put out less DC voltage (28.3) than the input voltage of 30.3. Is that a problem with the rectifier? I did also put the multimeter on diode tester and check each of the the poles on the rectifiers. They appeared to check out ok that way, although they were still in circuit and it is the first time I have ever done that. Also I checked the poles of the two 6800uf capacitors and got 18v DC and 39v AC. I read that they need to be replaced anyway due to their age. I am wondering if I can use a single 25v 12000uf capacitor like they sell at great planes electronics? Next, at the power supply test points I get 5.6v for the 5v point, 8.5v for the 8v, and 68.6v for the 60v and 50v for the 42v test points. Is that too far out of specifications for the 60v and 42v points? Next, I did take the logic probe to the board a little. I found that the reset was pulsing high and when I removed the reset daughter card connection that stopped. I also bridged the jumpers to bypass the slam switch. I noticed that there was initially no clock activity until I increased the voltage a little on the power supply, but I was a little hesitant to adjust to much because the 60v and 42v were already higher than it seemed they should be. The clock activity began at about 5.1v and there was activity on the address bus and some on the 6502 data lines. Several pins seemed to have no connection. 30, 29, 28 for example had no reading high or low. I haven't been able to find a schematic yet or an owners manual as that had apparently been lost. There are a ton of dip switches but I have not been able to find any documentation on what they do yet. If this is available somewhere let me know. Is there a way to test the controller board? Is there a location on the controller board to jump to simulate "insert coin"?

I appreciate any advice on where to go next. Thanks.

Eric
 
Crude but may help

pics for 32 switches:)
 

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Here is more.
 

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So far the main board seems to not be working enough for me to enter the test mode. It won't register a coin switch or the start button. I was hoping I could put it on novelty play and bypass the coin switch but it still won't play. The slam switch would register but I bypassed it as suggested on Pinwiki. I have found that Pins 4 and 6 on the 6502 are high. Those are the IRQ and NMI interrupt pins. Does anyone know if that should be the case? And can anyone tell me if Pins 28, 29, and 30 should have any activity? Scaboo4u any chance you might be able to send me a photo of the 6502 on the schematic so I can see if those pins are connected to anything?

Thanks for your help!

Eric
 
I think I just figured out that the coin switchs which are normally open do not complete the circuit when they are closed. I determined this using the multimeter on "continuity test" assuming I did it correctly. I just connected one lead to each side of the leaf spring switch. That should complete the circuit correct? But instead I still get a reading of "1" which I believe means the circuit is still open. This could be a broken wire, though I think less likely because the same happened to both coin switchs and the start button. So could these be bad transistors or a bad ground somewhere?

Thanks for any advice

Eric
 
Thought I would give an update on my progress. I decided to put in a new PCB from Rottendog rather than repair my origional PCB. This brought the game back from the dead but highlighted some other issues. Number one was the flippers did not work even though the game would otherwise play. I read that the flippers are not PCB controlled, so I started checking out the wiring. The transformers were making good AC output, and the bridge rectifier tested good, but I replaced it anyway. But still I was only getting 1 volt +or- at the flipper switches. I finally discovered it was the Q relay contacts were dirty and out of adjustment causing very low flipper voltage. Cleaning and adjusting the relay resolved the issue. I hope to eventually repair my origional PCB and gradually getting more experience with board repairs. I pulled the game prom and read it with a GQ-4x programmer and I get a checksum of 000618EB. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if that is correct? Thanks Eric
 
I answered my own question on page 55 of the Gottlieb Technical Seminar Workbook which has a list of 13 different games PCB and sound prom checksums. My game prom appears to be good as do both of my sound proms.
 
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