Need help fine-tuning my 6100. SO CLOSE! Pictures.

blkdog7

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I feel like I am pretty close to having my 6100 dialed in but I just can't seem to get the diagonal lines to get inside that box.

I read the FAQ/GUIDE for the monitor and the manual. I am not getting it. But, I am close.

Any tips? Here are some photos:

monitor_grav06.jpg


And, for fun, here's how my garage is looking:

monitor_grav10.jpg


:)
 
Are you adjusting the pots on the game PCB? Usually, you adjust them all to get the most corners touching the outside border and filling the screen, then go into game play to make sure all the vectors are touching where they should, making adjustments as necessary.

I'm not sure I've EVER seen a 6100 where all the corners touch perfectly after adjustment...
 
Are you adjusting the pots on the game PCB? Usually, you adjust them all to get the most corners touching the outside border and filling the screen, then go into game play to make sure all the vectors are touching where they should, making adjustments as necessary.

I'm not sure I've EVER seen a 6100 where all the corners touch perfectly after adjustment...

Yes, I am adjusting the pots on the PCB, other than color, that's the only place to adjust them! I have a bunch of things that are not lined up right in the game. It's playable, but looks odd at times.
 
Any ideas how to fine tune my display?

Also, the text flickers alot. Is that normal?
 
Any ideas how to fine tune my display?

Also, the text flickers alot. Is that normal?

Does the HV cage have the cage cover on it? Without it, the text can jiggle a little bit as the vector lines move back and forth between different pixels in the mask.
 
On my Tempest, I got the crosshatch screen to look similar to what you have there. to get the vectors to line up right, I used the 3rd screen in the test sequence to adjust the bipolar pots. Once the edges of the outer rectangle on the test screen lined up, it was all set. I think I need to work on the centering some more, but the vectors line up great now.
 
+1 on what Mod said. I've owned 4 6100's and not one of them had the lines perfectly lined up on them. I spent hours trying and "close" was the best I could ever do. Maybe there is such a thing as perfect but I never found it.
 
On my Tempest, I got the crosshatch screen to look similar to what you have there. to get the vectors to line up right, I used the 3rd screen in the test sequence to adjust the bipolar pots. Once the edges of the outer rectangle on the test screen lined up, it was all set. I think I need to work on the centering some more, but the vectors line up great now.


Pcolson is correct and he is referring to self-test screen 4. Check out the video I made of the self-test screens on my Gravitar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLUxxRknbG0

Screen 4 is displayed about :35 seconds. You will notice that the block in the middle of screen 4 forms a perfect rectangle. If yours forms a parallelogram use the bip pots to adjust until a rectangle is formed. Let us know if this helps.

Kent
 
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Pcolson is correct and he is referring to self-test screen 4. Check out the video I made of the self-test screens on my Gravitar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLUxxRknbG0

Screen 4 is displayed about :35 seconds. You will notice that the block in the middle of screen 4 forms a perfect rectangle. If yours forms a parallelogram use the bip pots to adjust until a rectangle is formed. Let us know if this helps.

Kent

Yes, mine is not a rectangle on that screen. That's the raster screen, right? The manual said this was for the factory and not for me. :)
 
Does the HV cage have the cage cover on it? Without it, the text can jiggle a little bit as the vector lines move back and forth between different pixels in the mask.

Yes, the cage is on. Yes, the text jiggles. Good description. :)
 
Yes, mine is not a rectangle on that screen. That's the raster screen, right? The manual said this was for the factory and not for me. :)

You are correct. The Operator's manual states exactly that, but read page 16 of the schematic package. See attached.
 

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You are correct. The Operator's manual states exactly that, but read page 16 of the schematic package. See attached.

Ah, good call! I am gonna wait for a friend to come over and have him be my eyes in front of the machine and make those adjustments. I really wish there was a remote board!
 
Ah, good call! I am gonna wait for a friend to come over and have him be my eyes in front of the machine and make those adjustments. I really wish there was a remote board!

The closest you can get is using a mirror. :)
 
yeah, I suppose I can try and do a mirror type setup. Hang it from the rafters in my garage? Seems like a pain!!!

Some folks have made cool adjustment mirrors. One fellow KLOV'er use one of the clamp/adjustable arms from a cheap lamp and just stuck a mirror on the end. You can then clamp it to the side of the game and adjust away.

If only I could find who it was.... Thanks Google!

http://www.noiselandarcade.net/inde...o-rig-a-monitor-adjusting-mirror-thingamajig/

825124246_637bd8cc59.jpg


I just adjust mine outside the game in front a big mirror...

IMG_0269.jpg
 
what game are you working with. Looks like it just needs some slight bip adjust.

I had a tempest that you couldn't dial in, had a bad cap on the bip circuit.
 
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