Need basic help for my Double Play baseball arcade machine

[karkeymarkie]

Need basic help for my Double Play baseball arcade machine

Hi, my name is Mark G and I own a Double Play: Super Baseball Home Run derby Arcade machine made by Cinematronics in 1987.
A few months ago, the game started to glitch while playing and ended up freezing. I would have to turn it off and then back on and then it would normally work good for a few hours. After this freezing was happening more frequently, I ran a diagnostic test on the arcade machine itself and got back "Master rom-bad, Chip U103- suspect." I have a few questions, first off, Is Chip U103 like a Lego chip you can pop off or is it soldered to the board and a professional needs to replace it? Also the U103 chip is behind a circuit board (view pictures below) and not sure if I can unplug the ribbon cable to get to it either?
Now the arcade machine shows all black screen when I turn it on and all I can do is hear the sound in the background…do you guys think by replacing the U103 chip that the screen would turn back on again or is that a different problem?
I am just trying to figure out if this is something I can handle with very little arcade machine repair knowledge. I have heard from friends that one wrong turn on a knob, you can blow it all up like a bomb.

Mark G
North Dakota
Email: [email protected]

 

[jacklick]

for future ref, thread should be in the repair section.

The good news is the manual for this game is pretty decent.

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/L/Leland Double Play Manual.pdf

Always start with power. Verify your voltage with a multimeter at the switching power supply and at the board. Looks like this game only needs +5 and +12v.


To answer your questions...
1) Yes the u103 is 99% likely to be socketed and you can remove it without soldering
2) Yes, remove the ribbon cable and screws/stand-offs of top board to get to it.
3) You might now have a monitor issue or video signal issue. turn the flyback up to see if you get a white raster imaged, then turn it back down.

 

[karkeymarkie]

Reply

Jacklick, thanks for the useful information and answering my questions. I am going to do some troubleshooting in the next few days and I'll let u know how it goes. And from now on I'll post in the repairs for repairs.. Didn't see that.

Mark

 

[karkeymarkie]

Question for jacklick or whoever else

-Update on 6/7/19
First off, I checked the voltage on the power supply with a multi meter and the readings were either showing +12.08 Volts or +5.06 volts (which are ok). Then I removed the circuit board with the U103 chip showing so I can remove it. I am having a hard time trying to unclip that chip. It seems like it could possibly be soldered to the board, or maybe I just need to use a lot of force on the ends to remove it. Any helpful ideas? You can see chip U103 in the picture below. Another issue I seen with the double play arcade machine is that one of the electric connectors looks fried up/burnt out. (see picture) Is there an easy way to test voltage on it or buy a replacement?

Thanks, Mark

 

[Arcadenut]

-Update on 6/7/19
First off, I checked the voltage on the power supply with a multi meter and the readings were either showing +12.08 Volts or +5.06 volts (which are ok). Then I removed the circuit board with the U103 chip showing so I can remove it. I am having a hard time trying to unclip that chip. It seems like it could possibly be soldered to the board, or maybe I just need to use a lot of force on the ends to remove it. Any helpful ideas? You can see chip U103 in the picture below. Another issue I seen with the double play arcade machine is that one of the electric connectors looks fried up/burnt out. (see picture) Is there an easy way to test voltage on it or buy a replacement?

Thanks, Mark

You need to replace that connector as it's burnt up. You'll also want to replace the headers on the board for that connector.

You get the parts you need here:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

 

[fcjim]

Before you start pulling ICs out, test the power at the board rather than at the power supply. The PS could be sending 5.06 volts out, but that does not mean that 5.06 volts is getting to the board and to all the chips on the board... and a burnt connector like that is a red flag that you might have connectivity problems with your power to the boards.

There is very little use in pulling IC 103 (or any programmed IC for that matter) unless you either have one to replace it with, or you have the ability to test it.

 

[Reddogg]

There is very little use in pulling IC 103 (or any programmed IC for that matter) unless you either have one to replace it with, or you have the ability to test it.

That being said, you CAN remove it and re-seat it if you want to (only suggest after trying other suggestions above). Just use a flat blade screwdriver to place under ends and gently pry it up. Make sure that you're in between the chip and it's socket, and NOT prying against the board itself. If really far in socket, you may have to use a small/thin flat blade screwdriver to be able to get between chip and socket. Do both ends of the chip, alternating, to try and prevent it from breaking loose and flying thru the air, or at the very least, bending a bunch of pins.

When you re-seat it, make sure the notch lines up (in other words, re-seat it in the exact same orientation that it is currently in).

But, yeah...first take care of that connector, and verify voltages.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I agree on the connector. Also reflow the solder in those header pins. The chances are good those connections are bad due to the heat.

 

[karkeymarkie]

Hi, thanks for the help on the this issue so far people. anyway
i am just about to order a new connector for my machine because it got burnt out.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
Part Number CS156-10-LR
Connector, 0.156" Plug, 10 Pin
With Locking Ramp

Can someone verify that is the right connector piece i need (i take it i need the 10 pin connector because there are 10 holes in the old connector? Look at my double play baseball post and the picture labeled "dp5" and "dp4" up above....other updates on my double play arcade machine. I turned up the voltage at the power converter and my +5 reading is now 5.62 volts, my -5 is now -4.88 volts and my 12 volts is now 12.41 volts. Also my monitor is working fine since i twisted the screen dial and the screen went all white.
Thanks again,
Mark G.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Hi, thanks for the help on the this issue so far people. anyway
i am just about to order a new connector for my machine because it got burnt out.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37
Part Number CS156-10-LR
Connector, 0.156" Plug, 10 Pin
With Locking Ramp

Can someone verify that is the right connector piece i need (i take it i need the 10 pin connector because there are 10 holes in the old connector? Look at my double play baseball post and the picture labeled "dp5" and "dp4" up above....other updates on my double play arcade machine. I turned up the voltage at the power converter and my +5 reading is now 5.62 volts, my -5 is now -4.88 volts and my 12 volts is now 12.41 volts. Also my monitor is working fine since i twisted the screen dial and the screen went all white.
Thanks again,
Mark G.

That looks like the right connector. Yes, each pin (or space with a plastic pin it in so you can only install the connector 1 way) is a position.

Good luck.

 

[karkeymarkie]

Thanks for the help everyone, i finally fixed my double play arcade machine with the help of many people including this forum!! "Thank you very much"