Need an easy way to remove the CPO from a metal cp?

WarLordAG

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Need an easy way to remove the CPO from a metal cp?

incrediblegames posted a thread a while back about easily removing a cpo from a metal control panel with the scraper attachment on a multi-tool.

I needed to get the CPO off my Mario Bros that I just got so I could apply the new one. I had a hell of a time with my Punch-Out a while back. It was an absolute nightmare removing the old CPO.

I do however own the Craftsman 12v multi tool nowadays. I can't begin to tell you how easy it was removing the old CPO with it. It took the old overlay off in no time at all. I then covered the panel with goof-off and scraped off what was left of the adhesive.

A lot of companies make this tool now, so you have a lot of options. I got the Craftsman version as a gift but I also already had all the other 12v tools from Craftsman so it made sense.
 
Cool. I just ordered a Kawasaki heat gun multi-tool off Amazon. It has a bunch of attachments including a scraper. I also use my DeWalt drill with a wire brush attachment to brush the metal clean of rust/pit marks. I agree, Goo-Gone and Break Cleaner both work well to remove adhesive.

Do you have any before and after shots of your Mario Bros CP? I have to do mine once my heat gun comes in. Still not looking forward to it.
 
Before:

CIMG1993.jpg


After:

mariobros_new_cpo.jpg


I actually did get a couple of minor bubbles. It sucks, but it looks way better than it originally did, and I'm not going to spend 60 more bucks to fix something so minor.
 
Thanks for posting the pics. Air bubbles do suck, but it still looks great! I can't wait to do the same to mine (hopefully with no air bubbles). :)
 
I just removed 2 old overlays for my super pac multi, and the actual overlay flaked/peeled off. I tried goo-gone for the residue and then paint thinner, and it wasn't working. I figured what the hell, and applied the wire brush directly to the adhesive. It worked really well, and it saved me a step since I was going to wire brush it anyway. There was still a few pieces of the cpo and it ate through them quickly too.

I'd say peel what you can with the CP unpopulated, and then take a wire brush to the rest.
 
I just removed 2 old overlays for my super pac multi, and the actual overlay flaked/peeled off. I tried goo-gone for the residue and then paint thinner, and it wasn't working. I figured what the hell, and applied the wire brush directly to the adhesive. It worked really well, and it saved me a step since I was going to wire brush it anyway. There was still a few pieces of the cpo and it ate through them quickly too.

I'd say peel what you can with the CP unpopulated, and then take a wire brush to the rest.

Wasn't there a thread about putting them in the oven to take them off easier?
 
Wasn't there a thread about putting them in the oven to take them off easier?

I heard that you can put them on a BBQ too. I actually tried using my propane torch on the adhesive, and it didn't do any good though.

But... most people wire brush them anyway after they've taken off the adhesive. So it really isn't any extra work. The adhesive was easier for the brush to remove than the light rust on the underside.
 
I heard that you can put them on a BBQ too. I actually tried using my propane torch on the adhesive, and it didn't do any good though.

But... most people wire brush them anyway after they've taken off the adhesive. So it really isn't any extra work. The adhesive was easier for the brush to remove than the light rust on the underside.

I just did this yesterday... Had an old Satan's Hollow CP.

Put the CP on the BBQ with all 3 burners going and the lid closed. Came back about 5 minutes later and the top part of the overlay was lifting... I was able to pull it off with my fingers (while still on the BBQ). A few minutes later, I was able to pull of the 2nd layer (paperish/adhesive). Finally, Goof Off took the resisdue adhesive off. Need to buff out some rust...

I have done the wire brush thing (actually got the drill out to do it before decided to try the BBQ path).
I will post some pictures tonight...
 
You can't use Goo Gone, that stuff is awful and doesn't do anything.
You have to buy Goof Off. It comes in a metal can. It'll melt plastic, so you have to be a bit more careful, but I've never had it fail me.
 
You can't use Goo Gone, that stuff is awful and doesn't do anything.
You have to buy Goof Off. It comes in a metal can. It'll melt plastic, so you have to be a bit more careful, but I've never had it fail me.

Goo gone will do nothing for removing the actual cpo but works great for removing the adhesive. I know many people complain it doesn't even work for that but I've found most people don't read the label where it tells you to apply and let sit for a few minutes (about 4-5 IMO) before scraping off the residue.

Personally I love the oven method but it seems most are afraid to put their cp in the oven. Usually stating that it will smell or there will be fumes which is not true at all. My best guess is they are afraid the wife will give them hell for using the oven for an arcade related use.
 
I mentioned the oven / boiling water. The stuff will float right off which is also very helpful when you happen to have glass involved.
 
I've used the oven. Put it on its lowest setting and give it about 15 min. It may smell a little but nothing major. Of course, I don't know if I'd try it with a wooden CP.
 
I've used the oven. Put it on its lowest setting and give it about 15 min. It may smell a little but nothing major. Of course, I don't know if I'd try it with a wooden CP.

I go the opposite way with the oven. I turn it up as high as it will go and only place the metal cp in there for about a minute and twenty seconds. Not enough time to really cook the cpo but it is enough to heat the metal. Never even had a hint of a smell.
 
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