Need advice on Multi-Williams "restore" job.

Teknotoyz

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
2,428
Reaction score
34
Location
BUFFALO, West Virginia
Need advice on Multi-Williams "restore" job.

I bought the vinyl covered converted Joust last weekend shown in the thread linked below. I need some advice on "restoring" it to a Multi-Williams.
I use the term "restore" loosely, but it is going from a converted cab back to a Williams game machine. :)

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=117193

The condition:
-The cabinet will need some repair around the base, and new back doors.
-Will touch up the original Joust side art.
-The original Williams transformer and power supply is still in the cabinet.
-The AC harness is untouched.
-The wiring harness has been hacked REALLY badly at the PCB location to install a non-jamma Rush'n Attack board connector.
-Original CP wiring is gone, coin door has original wire.
-Original CP is already hacked, will fill all holes and I have ordered a Phoenix Arcade Multi-Williams CPO to cover it (hopefully will arrive tomorrow!).

My Goal:
To make a JROK multi-williams while keeping to the cabinet as original as possible with all Joust artwork except the CPO.

Need some advice:
1.) Should I simply yank the Williams Power supply and install a switcher and Jamma harness? or maybe leave it in and install the new switcher alongside it?
2.) I have been admiring Dokert's work and may consider to replace the harness with a Joust Dokert harness, then simply use a JROK adaptor to plug into it.
Would cost extra, but I could use the original sound card coupled with the JROK (has anyone done this? Is it worth doing).
3.) I need to remake the back doors, but should I use MDF as was original, or should I use plywood?

One last item:
Can someone measure up the back doors of a Joust or Robotron, including the interface lip between top and bottom sections and lock hole position.
I want to make replacements true to the originals.

Thanks in advance.
 
I've been talking to BaconSM already, very nice guy and willing to help. Problem is that the layout requires an arcadeshop metal panel which I don't want. I'm OK with the Phoenix arcade version, but thought it was out of print. Darin has some in stock, so I ordered one of those.
 
Need some advice:
1.) Should I simply yank the Williams Power supply and install a switcher and Jamma harness? or maybe leave it in and install the new switcher alongside it?
2.) I have been admiring Dokert's work and may consider to replace the harness with a Joust Dokert harness, then simply use a JROK adaptor to plug into it.
Would cost extra, but I could use the original sound card coupled with the JROK (has anyone done this? Is it worth doing).
3.) I need to remake the back doors, but should I use MDF as was original, or should I use plywood?

1.) Leave the original guts installed but also just add a switcher and new JAMMA harness.

2.) Dokerts harness I'm sure is a nice piece - but consider not only the cost of the harness and Jr0k adapter you'll most likley have to rebuild th original Williams power section too. The sound amp - no point of it really. The Jrok amplifier will burn your ears if you want it to ;)

3.) Up to you - personally to keep it orginal MDF
 
I've been talking to BaconSM already, very nice guy and willing to help. Problem is that the layout requires an arcadeshop metal panel which I don't want. I'm OK with the Phoenix arcade version, but thought it was out of print. Darin has some in stock, so I ordered one of those.

I don't believe that it requires an Arcadeshop metal panel, it is just in the layout of the Arcadeshop panel and overlay. If you had an old wooden Williams control panel that you were filling and re-drilling, you would just need to re-drill the holes in the proper layout, which you would need to do with any other CPO.
 
I've got the CP off, how do you deal with the metal top?
Is this glued on?
Planning to use a heat gun to get the CPO off, I might consider a new piece of metal or just fill with bondo.....
Any Williams CP strip/fill/apply advice out there?
 
Joust

Since you are using a Jrok board, as long as you dont plan on deconverting it to a Joust later on. Just use a Jamma Harness and a switcher. All you would need from the cab is the iso. Or have Dokert rebuild your origional Williams power supply because it will last a lot longer than a switcher. Have him put one of his Joust harnesses in the box, when he ships it back.get your Jrok board and adapter and you will be set. If your gonna Bastardize, do it the easy and less expensive way. Jamma harness and switcher. If you want it to be more origional stay with the origional P/S. IMO
 
MacPDaddy, I'm about 85% complete with my Joust restore w/ jrok board. The cp is the most challenging part of the project. The metal plate his held in place with 4 or 5 screws from the top. Keep in mind, if you are using Joust colored buttons (pale yellow and powder blue) they are only made as short leaf buttons. Therefore you have to drill 1-1/8" hole about 1/4" down, then 5/8" hole the rest of the way. If you use long leaf buttons, use the button holders from bob roberts. I can send you pictures of the cp if needed. Let me know. Or you can PM me.
 
The metal plate his held in place with 4 or 5 screws from the top.

Any help/pictures would be great!

I discovered the screws once the CPO was off, I'm having a new plate cut so I don't have to try to repair this one. I also want the joystick dust covers UNDER the metal, so I needed a new piece to make it clean. If your still in the repair stage let me know, I asked for a couple of plates in case I botched one.

I already bought a Phoenix Multi-Williams CPO, really nice work by them. If you can send me any information/pics on the buttons, I was planning a Bob Roberts order before long. I do have 2 Wico leaf joysticks that are going in. I also want to use leaf buttons, the original colors would be cool for the flap buttons.
 
First off, our cat is always getting in the way when I'm working on games. Here's a classic example.

Some picts of the control panel. Needs some minor bondo patching and sanding but almost done...

I used a 1-1/8" hole saw from Lowe's to cut only the metal plate. Then a friend of mine used a forstner (sp?) bit on a drill press to drill 1-1/8" hole about 3/8" down and a 5/8" hole all the way though for the buttons. I used this because it gives a pretty flat edge where the 1-1/8" ends. I'll clean the rest up with a dremmel.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2995.JPG
    IMG_2995.JPG
    44.2 KB · Views: 50
  • IMG_2998.JPG
    IMG_2998.JPG
    47.2 KB · Views: 45
  • IMG_2999.JPG
    IMG_2999.JPG
    46.1 KB · Views: 39
Under the cp.

Filled he existing holes with wood chunks for the joust joystick holes and dowels for the buttons. Applied with gorilla glue and used bondo if any large gaps.

I can't take off the metal plate, but under the plate I used a dremmel to create a 1/2" hole about 1/4" down for the joystick bolts. Placed T-nuts from the top and filled with bondo. The result are these bolts from the bottom.

Last is the joust cpo file I'm working on for a "stealth" look. Working on the locations of the buttons/joysticks and I'll be sending the file to mamemarquees.

You will need the Wms button leafs and buttons from Bob Roberts. I got my Wico blue and yellow joystick here from member Wu.

Got the NOS marquee from member MtZrcade (sp?).

Let me know how it goes. I hope to have everything done (including stencils from pRok for the side art) this summer. I'll snap some picts when I'm done.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3000.JPG
    IMG_3000.JPG
    37.5 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_3001.JPG
    IMG_3001.JPG
    45.9 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_3002.JPG
    IMG_3002.JPG
    62 KB · Views: 52
Placed T-nuts from the top

Cool idea, I was considering how to mount the joysticks. I've posted pics of my panels starting point. I'll be using a drill press and a step drill bit to cut the holes.
 

Attachments

  • DSC02618.jpg
    DSC02618.jpg
    81.2 KB · Views: 20
  • DSC02620.jpg
    DSC02620.jpg
    97.2 KB · Views: 11
How awesome of JROK to be observing this thread. You the man!!!!

Soon as I get my tax refund, I'm ordering a board for my Defender Cabinet.


.
 
Cool idea, I was considering how to mount the joysticks. I've posted pics of my panels starting point. I'll be using a drill press and a step drill bit to cut the holes.

Nice piece of craftsmanship there! Your cp is squeaky clean. Puts mine to shame.

I don't consider myself very handy but I'm certainly learning. About 8 months ago I didn't know the different grits of sandpaper, what a transformer does, or ac wiring.

Let me know how that step drill works. Good luck!
 
He's clearly inspecting the quality of the work, he'll be making a formal report later ;)

- James

And since I'm cutting back on Fatty McButterpants' food to try to keep her under 13 lbs, I'm sure the report will not be favorable.
 
Nice piece of craftsmanship there! Your cp is squeaky clean. Puts mine to shame.

I don't consider myself very handy but I'm certainly learning. About 8 months ago I didn't know the different grits of sandpaper, what a transformer does, or ac wiring.

Let me know how that step drill works. Good luck!


Na, I cheated, you did work. New metal was easier than Bondo... Bob Roberts gave me the idea on the step drill, but boy the invisio and hyperspace buttons are gonna suck.... they aren't all the way on the metal... no drill bit will let me make that type of hole, maybe the hole saw route on those two. Still considering how to do it. May have to cheat some more and enlist help... :D

My CP was covered by two layers of overlay... maybe one reason it looks good now. I still need to fill the wood portions under the metal cover, I am going to use your idea on how to mount the joysticks.
 
Last edited:
The right way to mount the joysticks is to
a) mark them from the back,
b) drill a pilot hole through (a drill press helps here),
c) use a spade bit to countersink a hole the size of the t-nuts on the top of the CP,
d) drill a hole the size of the OD of the threaded part of the t-nut partly through the CP so the t-nut fits snugly,
e) finish drilling through with a 1/4" (or the appropriate size for the joystick bolts) twist bit.

That way you screw the bolts to secure the joystick in from the back but you won't leave bolt holes and you shouldn't have to worry about the bolt head slipping like you would if you did it the other way (bolt from the top).

Really horrible cross section drawing:

Code:
[FONT=Courier New]          CP Top [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]-------------------------------------+  metal plate[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New][FONT=Courier New]-------------------------------------+[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]-----------+[COLOR=red]==+[/COLOR] [COLOR=red]+==[/COLOR]+------------------+  wood CP[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]           +-+[COLOR=red]| |[/COLOR]+-+    [COLOR=red]T-Nut in Red[/COLOR]  |[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]             |[COLOR=red]| |[/COLOR][COLOR=black]|                    |[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]             ++ ++                    |[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]              | |                     |[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]--------------+ +---------------------+[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]        Cp Bottom[/FONT]

ken
 
YellowDog is the man and answered my same question about 6 months ago. I don't have the luxury of a drill press, do I had to do it by hand with a dremmel (not recommended). but, i am happy with the results.

The right way to mount the joysticks is to
a) mark them from the back,
b) drill a pilot hole through (a drill press helps here),
c) use a spade bit to countersink a hole the size of the t-nuts on the top of the CP,
d) drill a hole the size of the OD of the threaded part of the t-nut partly through the CP so the t-nut fits snugly,
e) finish drilling through with a 1/4" (or the appropriate size for the joystick bolts) twist bit.

That way you screw the bolts to secure the joystick in from the back but you won't leave bolt holes and you shouldn't have to worry about the bolt head slipping like you would if you did it the other way (bolt from the top).

Really horrible cross section drawing:

Code:
[FONT=Courier New]          CP Top [/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]-------------------------------------+  metal plate[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New][FONT=Courier New]-------------------------------------+[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]-----------+[COLOR=red]==+[/COLOR] [COLOR=red]+==[/COLOR]+------------------+  wood CP[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]           +-+[COLOR=red]| |[/COLOR]+-+    [COLOR=red]T-Nut in Red[/COLOR]  |[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]             |[COLOR=red]| |[/COLOR][COLOR=black]|                    |[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]             ++ ++                    |[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]              | |                     |[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]--------------+ +---------------------+[/FONT]
[FONT=Courier New]        Cp Bottom[/FONT]

ken
 
Back
Top Bottom