Neckboard Removal

Fudd

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Is there a article or another forum post that details on how to remove the neckboard? i have looked around and cannot seem to find anything.
 
You mean, remove the neckboard from the tube? There's no trick to it. It just pulls off. Might have to gently wiggle it a bit, but it just pulls off. Avoid flexing it - they get brittle from the heat. Grab it as close to the socket as you can with both hands and pull straight back, wiggling it gently.

-Ian
 
Remove the neckboard from the back of the tube, or remove the neckboard so it is no longer attached to the chassis?

If the former, just grab it with both hands on each side and apply steady even pressure as you pull it straight back (no up or down or left or right), it will pop off. Sometimes there is an glue on it to keep it from accidentally popping off, and you may have to give it a good pull to break the glue. Some people get a little anxious about it, and use a razor blade to cut through the glue, but I never do.

If the latter, then it would help to know which chassis it is...
 
Remove the neckboard from the tube..modessitt i have to pull those 2 monitors you commented about in my cap kit thread to do the kits...i also can't find a kit for the wg 7203? i'm going to pull the kortek to find a better part number as well. i am just trying to "shore" up all the info before i do it..this being my first cap kit i want to be prepared.
 
I'm not sure if Bob Roberts sells a specific K7203 cap kit or not. I have the listing here if you want to make your own. You may need to buy his bulk cap bag and hope it has everything you need.

That other is definitely a Kortek, but not sure on the modelnumber...
 
Here is the list for the K7203, including the Bipolar caps (BP's), the filter cap, the HOT, and the flyback - I forgot to write down the VR, but will get that later if you need it. The filter cap and BP's don't usually need to be replaced. Neither do the HOT or flyback unless you are having problems with shutdown, 'ticking', or blown fuses.

Also, to make it easier, I grouped the caps by size and quantity below the list. You can use that to check against what Bob says is in his bulk cap bag...

K7203 Parts Listing

Location-Size
C009 - 22uF 50v
C013 - 100uF 25v
C101 - 100uF 160v
C102 - 100uF 160v
C103 - 470uF 35v
C104 - 2200uF 35v
C105 - 100uF 25v
C106 - 1000uF 25v
C107 - 1000uF 25v
C110 - 10uF 16v
C305 - 10uF 16v
C307 - 1000uF 16v
C308 - 10uF 25v BP
C309 - 10uF 25v BP
C310 - 10uF 25v BP
C316 - 1uF 50v
C319 - 10uF 25v
C320 - .1u 50v
C402 - 220uF 35v
C403 - 2200uF 35v
C407 - 47uF 25v
C408 - 2200uF 25v
C413 - 2.2uF 50v
C504 - 1uF 50v
C507 - 1uF 50v
C511 - 100uF 63v
C514 - 10uF 50v
C515 - 1uF 50v
C516 - 47uF 25v
C519 - 220uF 16v
C525 - 100uF 16v
C611 - 10uF 25v
C612 - 10uF 50v
C614 - 10uF 100v BP
C617 - .47uF 50v
C620 - 1000uF 16v
C801 - 330uF 160v
C807 - 100uF 16v

Filter Cap (C005) - 220uF 400v
HOT - C5297
Flyback - TFT1415-002

Caps by Quantity


Size-Total
.1uF 50v - 1
.47uF 50v - 1
1uF 50v - 4
2.2uF 50v - 1
10uF 16v - 2
10uF 25v - 2
10uF 50v - 2
22uF 50v - 1
47uF 25v - 2
100uF 16v - 2
100uF 25v - 1
100uF 63v - 1
100uF 160v - 2
220uF 16v - 1
220uF 35v - 1
330uF 160v - 1
470uF 35v - 1
1000uF 16v - 2
1000uF 25v - 3
2200uF 25v - 1
2200uF 35v - 2

Bi-Polar Caps
10uF 25v BP - 3
10uF 100v BP - 1
 
Last edited:
haha i was reading the original and saying "what the hell"...then hit refresh...Thanks for all you help
 
Check and see if their is a glob of glue or silicon over the neck and tube. cut the glob off. I have even seen a epoxy like substance that went into the pins area and everything was a mess, and when pulling of the neck board with all the work done the damn pin came out with the neck board. tube was shot after that.
Take your time and wiggle as you are pulling backwards after you cut the glob off!
 
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