NBA Jam TE - setting up a 4 player?

Both reds or both greys need to be on pin one on both boards. Yours look to be correct in the pics you posted. Probably a dumb question but are you sure the speaker works? Do you get the bong sound when you first power it up? When it's on do you hear a faint his from the speaker? Are you able to enter the test menu and run the diagnosis on the sound board?
 
Yep, sound diagnostic passes.

I can hear the bong.

The speaker worked before.

I've tinkered wit the volume pot, nothing.

I hear no hiss.

Dumb question: if for some reason the speaker +/- got switched, it would still work right?

I checked the -5 is coming into the pcb connector.

There are a few loose wires that I chopped when I flipped cabinets - that's got me nervous that I'm missing something there, but I believe they were to coin doors, lights, etc - and have nothing to do with sound.

At this point, unless anyone can identify something obvious - I'll start testing voltage and re-tracing wires. So weird!

thanks for all the help so far. Just hoping it's not something on the board that got fried.
 
Sound like the board is connected like it should be. One of my buddies has a dedicated NBA Jams that was doing exactly what yours is, passed all tests and got the bong. His was a bad sound board. There are a few basic things to look at on the sound pcb with out getting into heavy diagnosis. Look for cold solder joints on the connection headers. Also try wiggling the actual sound IC that's mounted to the heatsink and see if any of the legs move on the under side of the board, or just reflow the headers and sound IC to rule that out. Try re seating and or cleaning the roms. Look close at the electrolytic capacitors for signs of leakage. Sadly these Midway sound boards are dropping like flys lately.
 
the boards are connected properly. if not, the sound board test would yield a SOUND IRQ NOT DETECT error.

I will reiterate, the ADPCM sound boards don't use -5. :)

I will also reiterate, the reason these sound boards are dropping like flies lately is because the capacitors they came with are rotten now. from my own experiences this will result in the following: power on test will ding, but you will have no sound. you will have scratchy sound. turning the volume pot up and down will give you the illusion the pot is dirty, but it isn't. or combinations of any of these things.

so I'm going to inject some classic KLOV logic, where before you do anything else you have to replace the caps. you don't need a "kit" for it, it's seriously 3 or maybe 4 ratings, you can order them from mouser or GPE yourself.

in addition to their age, Williams had a penchant for mounting most of the caps directly next to the amplifier heatsink. this heat will dry them out. they're bad. they need to be replaced.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the knowledge. I will investigate a bit further tonight. Replacing caps/etc may be beyond my paygrade but perhaps it's time to dive into it.

will report back what I find!
 
caps shouldn't be too horrible to replace. I've done a few of those, don't recall having any issues. be sure to remove the amp heatsink though, for way easier access. you'll have to redo the thermal paste when you're done, make sure it's the white kind. ordinarily I tuck my caps as tight to the board as possible, but in that instance I actually slanted them away from the heatsink.

it's when you get into the Revolution X crap it becomes fun. I think those caps actually leak, cause you have to fight the solder the same way you would if batteries outgassed all over the place!
 
Just wanted to reach out to see if anyone here would be able to look at my NBA Jam TE sound board to test and repair it? If you know of anyone that would be able to take a look, please PM me! Cheers
 
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