NBA Hangtime power (I think) troubleshooting advice

Dervacumen

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NBA Hangtime power (I think) troubleshooting advice

Long time abuser, short time active member.

I picked up an NBA Hangtime cab that has what I think is a power problem. When you plug it in everything seems to go live immediately. Or that is to say the marquee lights up and I can hear power to the CRT. The power indicator on the board lights up. When I press the switch on the top of the cabinet, it doesn't change state for about 15 seconds, then the screen flashes and I hear loud audio of the game - so I guess it's gone through the self test - but it last only about .5 seconds. Then the machine cycles again.

My guess is a power supply problem, and when checked it shows a good 5V but the 12V line is around 10V. I tried to adjust the power via the adjustment on the PS but every time I turn it, it my meter gets nuts and eventually stops reading. Maybe I'm shorting it through the adjustment screw?

What should I check for - does this sound like a Power Supply problem, and if so, I do have the schematics (Peter Chou USP-11-150x) but would really like to learn where to start with this one.

This was a nice deal for $50. The machine is exceptionally clean except the side art so I'd like to get it rolling.

Thanks for any ideas, I' looking forward to getting it up and going.

Derv
 
More on the NBA Hangtime power issus

Forgot to add that the PS fan does not run. I'm not sure if it should run all the time or not...
And the guy I got it from said it was working great an gradually started to have this problem. It's got a few color fading color issues on the monitor but I'm sretty sure those are separate from the power supply issue - maybe needs a cap kit.

And it looks like th ROM were changed to convert it to a Hangtime MAX.
 
Long time abuser, short time active member.

I picked up an NBA Hangtime cab that has what I think is a power problem. When you plug it in everything seems to go live immediately. Or that is to say the marquee lights up and I can hear power to the CRT. The power indicator on the board lights up. When I press the switch on the top of the cabinet, it doesn't change state for about 15 seconds, then the screen flashes and I hear loud audio of the game - so I guess it's gone through the self test - but it last only about .5 seconds. Then the machine cycles again.

My guess is a power supply problem, and when checked it shows a good 5V but the 12V line is around 10V. I tried to adjust the power via the adjustment on the PS but every time I turn it, it my meter gets nuts and eventually stops reading. Maybe I'm shorting it through the adjustment screw?

What should I check for - does this sound like a Power Supply problem, and if so, I do have the schematics (Peter Chou USP-11-150x) but would really like to learn where to start with this one.

This was a nice deal for $50. The machine is exceptionally clean except the side art so I'd like to get it rolling.

Thanks for any ideas, I' looking forward to getting it up and going.

Derv

I would stop running the game with that power supply. if you're getting no readings on voltages when tinkering with the +5 adjustment, then it's probably cashed. sure you could probably go and fix it, but for the amount of money involved (very little) you can just buy a whole new unit and eliminate that from the equation.

it does sound like a power supply issue. I hope you didn't nuke the board from over/undervoltage.

if you knew this, I'm sorry in advance, but the marquee light and the monitor run off 120VAC and have nothing to do with the power supply. some newer power supplies have 120V plugs on them for whatever you wish to hook up to it... but in most cases you would just run off the isolation transformer in the cab, or if it doesn't have one, which I assume Hangtime doesn't, it'll just have like a basic AC power block in it.

the 10V on the 12V line is something of a dead giveaway that the switching components in the power supply aren't working right anymore. in most applications the 12V runs anywhere between 13V and I think to some extremes... about 17V? you need at least 12V there to power the audio on the game board, and you don't have enough. Hangtime will also require -5V, so who the hell knows what that's coming up as, lol.

go get a new power supply my friend, and be more active, this place is the shit. :D

in addition, if replacing the power supply doesn't help the situation, then the next best alternative would be to start pulling the roms out of the sockets (of course making note where they came from) and making sure the sockets are all clean and the legs on the chips aren't gunked up. THEN making sure they're seated in the sockets good and tight.

beyond that, you're probably looking at a board-level problem, which I think was common on the Wolf unit boardsets (and Zeus... and T.... and well, every Midway board that wasn't Y, I guess, those were built like tanks) :)
 
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NBA Hangtime power issue

So I guess you're right, I'll just replace it and keep this to tinker with and repair so I have one waiting.
The one I have has the power button built in and all the $25.00 ones don't so I guess I'll have to spring for about twice that price. I would really like to keep this cabinet as close to stock as I can. Anyone in the south bay area go one they want to part with?
Thanks for the tips.
 
it really doesn't make a difference, man. just get something that works good.

the Happ PowerPros are pretty good, I don't know what other people recommend here.

if your current one is the kind with the molex plug, I'd get one of those to replace it with, that way you don't have to mess with cutting/stripping/crimping/splicing wires.
 
So still no luck but on a lark I decided to check the volage out on the new PS and the 12V rail is reading 10.4V just like the old PS.
Why would this not read out at the listed 12V.
I got the HAPP replacement PS with the power switch ont he side.
I'll go back out and check the roms again but I'm thinking this is larger than that. Unless there are other ideas.
 
did you tune the +5 adjustment? from the factory these things come set at 5.00 volts. plug in a meter on the red (+5) and black (ground) wires coming from the power supply and make sure you're getting at least 5.10 volts at the power supply side, that should be enough to boot the game, you can try again at the JAMMA edge some other time.
 
I feel like I'm lifecasting this experince. So all the roms are reset and no change. When I got the cabinet the guy said it gradually degraded to this state over several months. I checked all the electrical connections I could find on the harness and the wiring seems fine. I also rechecked voltages at the harness connector and the +5V -5V are fine, the 12V reads down around 9.8V. Still don't get that. Aside from the PS and the power block there is a small filter see attached. Additionally one of the leds doesn't light up and another blinks. See attached. Any thought?
 

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Did you reseat all the chips, or just the roms? Do any other socketed chips too, and also make sure your edge connector is really clean. The 9.8v isn't that big of a deal, the 12v is unregulated and doesn't have to be 12v, plus you don't need the 12v for the board to boot.
 
The factory voltage on the 5V rail was set to 5.07V. I upped it to 5.10V - 5.11V and verifed I reset all socketed chips. The edge connector looks to be in great shape but I'll pull it out and clean it with some alcohol and non-lint rags. The whole inside of the cabinet is in very good shape actually.
This board was upgraded to maximum hangtime at some point and was verified as working in 2006 as I can see the pen writing on the PCB. Two of the chips have no labels on them so I'm not sure if they were replaced at some point or the labels just fell off.
I also pulled the battery verified voltage and put it back in.

One thing I still don't understand. I know when I plug it in the marquee lights up. There's a button at the top of the cabinet which must be for the monitor because when I toggle it I can hear the monitor energize. Why would the switch toggle only the monitor and not just be wired to power on all the AC components? Just wondering.
If I understand correctly, the board ought to power up via the DC current upon plugging the power supply in to the power infeed right?
 
very interesting.

so you say as long as the machine is plugged in, whether the power switch is on or off, the marquee light is on? it means that someone molested the AC wiring at some point, the marquee isn't wired into the power switch like it's supposed to be.

your machine shouldn't have an isolation transformer, it's just the like power brick thing, which I think just has a line filter inside it and everything plugs into that.

does the game power supply always come on when the game's plugged in too? I'm just clarifying. :)

neither of these should matter really aside from being improper. meter your AC input voltage coming to the power supply just for shits and grins.
 
Someone's done something in here for sure. I think the power up of the marquee independent of the power switch should have been my first clue that the innards were redone.
The power supply I have is identical to the one I replaced and has the power button on the side so it's always on when you plug in the power cord. If I didn't leave the power switch on the power supply in the on position I wouldn't be able to turn on power without reaching in to the back of the machine. At least this one has a live fan; the old one didn't. I checked the AC voltage in and it's good. Seems like when I replaced the power supply I probably should have just gotten a regular switching power suppy without the power button and then rewire everything since it seems like at some point I may go that route anyway.
I was looking for a way to open up the rest of the back of the machine to check out the wiring around the power switch but it looks like I can only get in there through the marquee. Maybe there's a hidden secret I don't know about.
Kinda funny. When I looked in this machine the first time I thought the wiring made no sense. But having no experience with this game (or many others, really) I figured I was just being exposed to a new and exciting "arcade game way" of wiring. Turns out it was more of an "I've got these ramdom parts here let me hack a system together" way. Kinda like me I guess.
Methinks I have a problem.
And thanks for the ideas.
 
well, if need be, I have some original parts for the power sections on these Midway cabs, I might've borrowed some shit off one, I can't remember, but I have everything including the damn power switch. lol

I of course have a couple cabs that run the same shit too, maybe get some pictures of what you got going on in there.
 
The AC filter is wired directly to the PS AC output. From here the wires go over to the left into a bunch and route back down to the power block. From the power block the wiring goes back up to the monitor and monitor control circuit board which is mounted on the left inside of the case. You can see a bunch of splices in the wiring on that side even in this blurry picture. Somewhere in that mess the wiring goes up to the marquee. So when you plug in the machine the marquee goes on bypassing the cabinet power switch.
On the right side of the case, the large gray wire routes from the jamma harness monitor lines over to the monitor. So I guess the monitor was swapped later (its a sharp image monitor) thus the wiring isn't bundled with the rest of the wiring in the cabinet.
Also on the right side from the connector are two wires that route up to the speakers.
 
Pics attached.
The monitor adjustments add on board has a momentary switch.
 

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none of that shit is original. at all. wow.

yeah, your entire power section was gutted and replaced with probably some spare parts whoever had this before you (or before them) had.

I really don't know where to start here, someone else help please. lol

I might be selling you some Midway cabinet parts soon. :/
 
Doesn't it make sense that if this were once working with these components and the back was never taken off by the guy I got it from - no key, etc - that the only problem should be with the board at this point, and that given a known working board I should have success getting this running? Granted, the current power setup could have been what damaged the board over time. I'll have to ask how long it took to degrade to this point.
I fired it up before I transported it and it still does exactly the same thing as it did after I transported it so I don't think anything was damaged during the move.

If so, I guess I'm in the market for an NBA hangtime or max hangtime board.
 
What you need to do next is plug another jamma board into this cabinet. If it comes up and runs, then you need a new board, simple as that. If it runs with a messed up picture, then you've also got monitor issues. Do you have any other games you can rob the board out of?
 
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