Nanao monitor help

DarthSonic

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Hi all, I have a nanao monitor, and I believe the flyback is bad. The monitor is in my Sega Turbo upright, and it is the smaller monitor version one (14 inches, I believe). The chassis says KB240331B, which I believe is the MC-2000. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement flyback? Also, is there any way to test the tube to see if it is good (before fixing the chassis)? What tipped me off to the flyback was the popping noises and a smell similar to electric motor oil; do any other components smell like that? The monitor was horizontally collapsed, which was followed by a vertical collapse down to a blue spot around the size of a quarter. This slowly faded and shrunk, which is when I unplugged the game.

I have already replaced the HOT (shorted when I got the game) and the capacitors that were bulging. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://youtu.be/l3ZHR6_f_5I
 
Do flybacks exist? I think so. Check with BobRob, Zanen, Arcadecup, etc.

As for what can pop and smell besides a flyback? Caps, resistors burning, etc...
 
A "motor oil" smell is far more likely to be bad caps than the flyback. A smoking flyback smells more like burning plastic.
 
A "motor oil" smell is far more likely to be bad caps than the flyback. A smoking flyback smells more like burning plastic.

Thanks, this gives me a new hope. The smell was distinctly different from electrolytic caps (new ones at least). Are there any types that are more likely to smell like this? It would make diagnosing a lot easier if there are.
 
Not really. Sometimes monitors that sit for a while can give off a smell while working as mouse urine, cigarette smoke residue, dust, etc heats up.

I would pull the chassis, clean it if necessary, then inspect the flyback for cracks or holes. And if I didn't find any, I'd cap it, inspect for cold solder and burned parts, test the fuse/vr/hot, then try it out...
 
I don't believe the MC-2000 flyback is available. The only classic Nanao flyback available (that I'm aware of) is for the MC-2030.....and it'll run you $80-$90. Also, if you've got a full size upright......you've got a 19"/20" monitor. The 14" (MC-1400) was used in mini cabinets.

Edward
 
I don't believe the MC-2000 flyback is available. The only classic Nanao flyback available (that I'm aware of) is for the MC-2030.....and it'll run you $80-$90. Also, if you've got a full size upright......you've got a 19"/20" monitor. The 14" (MC-1400) was used in mini cabinets.

Edward

They made two variations of the upright. They are identical other than the monitor and bezel. I'm not sure if the difference matters, or if they have different caps, resistors and flybacks.

This one is the standard 19" monitor:
http://pinballstore.tripod.com/webonmediacontents/1528475.jpg?1328131282357

And this one is mine:
http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x444/Darth-Sonic/0227110206.jpg
 
Is the flyback attached to the main monitor board, or is it in a seperate box, and is connected via wires?

Let me put it this way- Either way, you'd do better finding someone with a working 14" monitor than to find these extinct flybacks.
 
Is the flyback attached to the main monitor board, or is it in a seperate box, and is connected via wires?

Let me put it this way- Either way, you'd do better finding someone with a working 14" monitor than to find these extinct flybacks.

It is soldered directly to the board. Is there a way to use a different flyback and put it on a separate pcb with a cage around it (in case all else fails)?
 
Update: New question, tube swap?

So I picked up an MC1400 (chassis is labeled KB240331C). Currently in my Turbo (stock monitor) is the MC1600 (chassis labeled KB240331B). I would prefer to keep the slightly larger tube in the game and have a few questions.

-Does the KB240331C revision of the board use the same cap kit as a KB240331B?

-Can I use the KB240331C board with my MC1600 monitor?
||=> If so, do I need to swap the yoke and purity rings?
||=> If the mc1600 tube was bad, could that damage the "new" chassis (KB240331C)?
||=> Would it be better for the longevity of the monitor to keep the KB240331C with
its factory tube (the MC1400)?

-Also, I found a cap soldered to the bottom of the KB240331C chassis. Would this have been done to account for a design flaw, or would it be that someone didn't have the right caps for a cap kit and made due with 2 caps? (I understand this last question is kind of vague and might not get an answer)

-If anyone has any info on revision C of the board, I would really appreciate it. I had found schematics and a cap kit guide for the B revision, but not much came up on google for revision c.
 
Sorry for the bump, but I'd really like to get this game running. Does anyone know answers to the questions in my last post? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
The Nanao MC2000 series flybacks are NOT available to the best of my knowledge at this time.

Thanks for the info! (I feared that answer)

As far as a tube swap, can I use the chassis from the MC1400 (KB240331C) on the MC1600 (which uses the same chassis as the MC2000(KB240331B))?
 
Last edited:
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I didn't want to withhold useful information. I got the monitor working. I used the chassis from the MC1400 (KB240331C) with the 16 inch tube (MC1600), and it worked! Also, I used the cap kit worm the MC2000 and all the electrolytic caps were the same value on the chassis for the 14 inch monitor. In the off chance anyone else has the same question, they are compatible.

Thank you to all who have contributed!

After the cap replacement and a bit of PCB work, this is what the game looks like. Note: the vertical bars are not visible in person.

1344390020894.jpg
 
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