Namco System 12 - Ergheiz No Boot

SiLeNtNiNjA1

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I just got an Ergheiz board in the mail. Seller says he tested before shipping. I power on the unit, and get no sound or video. I can hear a pulsing hum from the monitor. Ive tried it on a WG 25k7101 med res, and on a 19in std res WG (couldnt find the model num on it...). The 19in std res runs several other games - system 11 soul edge, mk2, street fighter, ninja gaiden, ect w/o issues. The med res runs a namco 246 w/o issues.

I tested it on both resolutions as I see posts around of people running the system 12 hardware on both 25 and 15.75hz monitors, so I figured id rule out the resolution being the problem.

Any guesses where to start?
 
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it's standard resolution. I don't know of any instances where System 12 was medium res...

check the connection between the main board and the rom board. make sure they're plugged in good and tight.

one time for amusement, since I had a Tekken Tag board with stuck inputs, I tried swapping the rom board from it onto my working Tekken 3 board and received the same results you're getting now.

I wound up getting another Tekken Tag board and called it a day for the other one.

I had some troubles with my old Tekken 3 setup with one of those grey Peter Chou power supplies quite frequently. are you sure it's not a case of a power supply flaking out on you and is stuck in overcurrent protection?
 
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Power supply is att 5.53v / 12.34v according to my meter. Its a 4a supply, according to the manual, game should only take 1.3a. Ive already reseated both the cpu board and the flash rom board, but I dont have another rom board to try swapping with :\

According to the specs on system16.com, and wikipedia, its capable of putting out the higher resolutions, but I noticed the manual and print on the board near the jvs connectors both state 15k std res. I only tried on the med res once, and the rest of the debugging has been on the std because of that.

It seems unlikely the rom board wouldve wound up swapped, especially since it was tested before shipping...

Im somewhat leaning towards a problem like this thread :
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=54568&highlight=system+12

where it wont sync to my monitor right, But I dont have another std res cab to try it in...
 
5.53V is high as fuck, dude.

knock it down to 5.10-5.15.

don't worry about the amperage, these little Namco boards won't tax anything, it's when you get into larger, more elaborate setups like Sega or anything else consisting of multiple boards that you start worrying about getting a beefier unit.

I find it odd that your +5 is so high but your +12 is relatively spot-on. maybe it's just the power supplies I've had (Peter Chou grey, Happ PowerPro screw) or the game itself probably makes the difference, but I generally see the +12 in like the 13s. that won't hurt anything, that only powers the sound amp.

but that +5, you need to watch that. you know how to adjust that right?

I hope you didn't toast your board, it's Japanese-made, so I'm sure it's very sensitive like that. :(
 
Aside from dropping in a resistor, I have no idea how to adjust the voltage on these guys. I guess ill look for a pot or something under the metal shield and let you know tonight. Also, that was from my crappy meter - my good one was in the trunk of the car my wife had so il recheck it as well.

I would hope that if the system 11 boards could handle the voltage, the system 12 could to :\
 
some power supplies with have either a knob for the +5 adjustment pot, others will have the pot more or less hidden inside and you have to turn it with a smaller phillips screwdriver (like out of a precision set)

you're going to want a good and accurate meter for this. :) just leave the probes in the +5 and GND so you can see in real time what the +5 is at, and gradually (key word) turn it in the direction that would be DOWN. there's usually an arrow near the adjustment that tells you what is up (or +) ... I imagine to increase it is clockwise, and to decrease it is counterclockwise.

I say 5.15 is a good spot to land at. pay mention that there's a lot of travel between the power supply and what's coming out at the JAMMA edge however, so meter both places. you want 5.15 at the board. :)

switching power supplies ALWAYS have adjustments for +5, unless it's not a video game power supply. so look for a knob or a pot via a hole in the side.


if there's anything else just ask.
 
Power supply is the original from the cab - its an old rampage thats been converted around to my generic cab, so id assume its there, just where is the question :)

Thanks again and ill let you know when I get outta work tonight!
 
Alright, the previous owner made it really easy - they cut a hole in the top of the metal guard, and glued a straw to the dial. With my good meter, the +v5 was 5.27 before i touched it.
W/ no board connected, new values : +5v = +5.10, -5v = -5.6v, +12v = +11.98v
W/ known working sys 11 : +5v = +4.98, -5v = -5.6v, +12v = +13.68v
W/ ergheiz sys 12 prob board: +5v = +5.01, -5v = -5.63v, +12v = +14.82v

No change with any results, all of my older boards still work fine, the ergheiz system 12 pcb still has no boot.
 
I think i found the problem...

I think i found the problem...

This seems to be cutting across some of the paths on the bottom of the board. I guess ill see if i can follow these anywhere and try to repair as much as I can.
 

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Get some 30 gauge kynar wire wrap wire to bridge any cut traces. You can hold it down to the bottom of the circuit board with thin strips of electrical tape then tack it in place for good with some non-metallic fingernail polish.

RJ
 
Got the wire, and the weller soldering station. Pestering a buddy to let me borrow his 20x bifocal microscope - being able to see well makes it a ton easier :)

Also, I usually use hot glue rather than the fingernail polish. Maybe I should try that though, less of a big glob :)
 
hot glue can be a pain in the ass if you ever need to work on it again, I'd think you'd kind of want it to be a big glob, then you can pull on that and the rest normally should follow, lol

did you try metering all the points on those traces to see if that's in fact the problem?
 
yeah, a couple have absuredly high resistance ratings, a couple are open, and we have a section shorted together in the large section of traces where the deepest part is. To be safe, and sure it wasn't my cab, I dropped it into the cab of another local klov'er last night to, with the same results.

the open connections don't bother me, but I'm hoping none of the shorts sent 12v down a 5v line or anything. I guess well see when I get my hands on that microscope to see.
 
make sure you butcher around the sections where they're crossed. you sound like you know what you're doing though, best of luck, I hope you can fix it.
 
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