My X-men 6 player Audio Fix Attemp

Ok a bump to the thread with major news on my attempt. I ordered the caps from Mouser (thanks Deadpool for providing the Mouser part #'s right here) and received them last week. I decided to mess with my 2 non-working sets more before trying anything with my still working set. It wasn't always easy, but thanks to Channelmanic's suggestion of using some flux, I was able to get the caps replaced. I fired it up on my Double Dragon cab for quick test purposes and sound is back!!!! This is on the original board that came with the cab that has been soundless for a few years at least. I can't even begin to tell you how excited I was to hear that classic opening music coming from this board again! Here's my repair job....not horribly pretty but it is running again. Now I just hope I got any electrolyte neutralized in time so it doesn't damage the connections to the bottom. So far so good though. Time to go install this baby back in the cabinet. :)

DSCN0695.jpg
 
@ MrSinister: Yeah the negatives are all oriented towards the side of the pcb.

Looks like I spoke a little bit too soon. My sound is still working, but it's got issues. I still get some distortion at times and I'm not certain what's causing it. I went over my solder work again and don't see any issues. I didn't get this problem testing it in my Double Dragon cab which uses the mono sound through the JAMMA harness. Also a bit odd it's not doing it in the 6 player cab if I leave it playing the music for volume adjustment. Weird...
 
Okay going over my solder work a 3rd time I did see at least one cap leg that need a bit more help. Played through an entire game with no issues and so far so good with attract mode. *crossing fingers* What's weird is I had no issue in test mode if I let the music for the volume adjust loop over and over and no issues in game mode. I *thought* I still had a bit of a static pop when first powering up after this most recent solder check.

My next move will hopefully be to finish the work I started on my other non-working one and after that I have my working 6 player and a working 4 player that need some attention.
 
Tonight I decided to try my luck with the other 6 player board that had died. This would be the one that I actually bought before I even had my 6 player X-Men. I'm that much of a fan of the game that I wanted to have a 6 player board and marquee even without a way to really play it. This board ran in my 6 player X-Men for a few years before it started to flake out and finally went silent. I had started attempting to revive this one but never finished because I was getting frustrated trying to work with it. This time I had a good repair under my belt already so that helped. I replaced the remaining caps and also corrected a mistake from my earlier work and....I HAVE SOUND!!!! That's two for two so far!!!! I can't believe it! Now I still have my still a working 4 player and the working 6 player that need their caps changed. Has anyone else tried the repair lately?
 
This is the most exciting repair thread I've seen on KLOV since I've joined. My solder skills aren't so great and I haven't done anything more than install jumper wires on boards and replace suicide batteries on CPS2 hardware. Is this repair job pretty complicated? I've got an X-Men with the sound on the way out and I already sold my first soundless X-Men to LyonsArcade. I'd be interested in fixing my crackling board if it's within the realm of possibility given my lack of solder skills.

How are the repairs holding up so far?
 
SuperGunGuru said:
Haha I have to admit I would be tempted to sell one on eBay provided I get the 3rd 6 player board working. It is nice to have a few working spares however.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify... when you say you had dead Xmen board you mean the sound was dead but the game booted and played correct?

If so, and you do decide to sell one, I'd be interested in one. Let me know....

Nice work!
 
POSFORNJKI said:
This is the most exciting repair thread I've seen on KLOV since I've joined. My solder skills aren't so great and I haven't done anything more than install jumper wires on boards and replace suicide batteries on CPS2 hardware. Is this repair job pretty complicated? I've got an X-Men with the sound on the way out and I already sold my first soundless X-Men to LyonsArcade. I'd be interested in fixing my crackling board if it's within the realm of possibility given my lack of solder skills.

How are the repairs holding up so far?
Click to expand...
So far so good with the repairs. The first board that I fixed is running strong. I think the initial hiccups I had were due to not quite having a good solder connection on a few of the caps. It's a bit more of a pain because you have nothing to hold the caps in place like through hole soldering. I basically put a small blob of solder on the pads and then put the caps in place.

Overall it's really a pretty simple repair. It's kind of a pain to remove the original caps and frankly I ended up just breaking them off most of the time. Trying to de-solder them just didn't work for me. A little flux on the solder pads helps getting the new solder flowing (kudos again to Channelmanic for recommending it). On a few caps, the pads were damaged do the point I soldered right to the legs of the IC, but overall I was lucky mine were in relatively good shape.
 
ajcrm125 said:
Just to clarify... when you say you had dead Xmen board you mean the sound was dead but the game booted and played correct?

If so, and you do decide to sell one, I'd be interested in one. Let me know....

Nice work!
Click to expand...
Thanks. :) I only wish I had your level of ability to troubleshoot boards, but I'm very happy to have had the success with this. Anyway to clarify....yes the game played fine, but the sound was dead. I'll let you know if I end up selling one. In the next few weeks I want to try the repair on my last 6 player board...should go smooth because it still works, but I noticed signs of leakage so I might as well take care of it.
 
SuperGunGuru said:
So far so good with the repairs. The first board that I fixed is running strong. I think the initial hiccups I had were due to not quite having a good solder connection on a few of the caps. It's a bit more of a pain because you have nothing to hold the caps in place like through hole soldering. I basically put a small blob of solder on the pads and then put the caps in place.

Overall it's really a pretty simple repair. It's kind of a pain to remove the original caps and frankly I ended up just breaking them off most of the time. Trying to de-solder them just didn't work for me. A little flux on the solder pads helps getting the new solder flowing (kudos again to Channelmanic for recommending it). On a few caps, the pads were damaged do the point I soldered right to the legs of the IC, but overall I was lucky mine were in relatively good shape.
Click to expand...

For soldering those caps back in you just put a bit of solder on the pad... a bit on the leg... then a bit of liquid rosin flux on the pad. Touch the leg to the pad and touch 'em both with the hot iron and the leg will seat right to the solder perfectly. The rosin helps keep the joint clean and from becoming like a nasty cold solder joint.
 
channelmanic said:
For soldering those caps back in you just put a bit of solder on the pad... a bit on the leg... then a bit of liquid rosin flux on the pad. Touch the leg to the pad and touch 'em both with the hot iron and the leg will seat right to the solder perfectly. The rosin helps keep the joint clean and from becoming like a nasty cold solder joint.
Click to expand...
Cool thanks for the tip! I'll try this method on my other 2 boards and see what I get. :)
 
Best thread ever. SGG, how much did the caps, flux, and other essentials cost you? For organization sake, would you mind making a short list of all necessary components for the repair? Do you have links for the components or are they findable at Radio Shack?

I can't wait to try this myself. It would be my most glorious repair moment if I could get the sound to work 100% again.
 
POSFORNJKI said:
Best thread ever. SGG, how much did the caps, flux, and other essentials cost you? For organization sake, would you mind making a short list of all necessary components for the repair? Do you have links for the components or are they findable at Radio Shack?

I can't wait to try this myself. It would be my most glorious repair moment if I could get the sound to work 100% again.
Click to expand...
The caps weren't too expensive. Deadpool posted Mouser part numbers on the first few pages of this thread and those are what I used. They are actually pretty tiny caps (probably in part because they are only 16 volts) and I spent around $10, but I ordered enough to do all of the boards I currently have. The flux I bought from MCM electronics for a few bucks because I wanted some spare tips and spongers for my soldering station. I ended up getting a pen because that was the only rosin flux I saw them carry. It still works well, but I bet someone else out there has something more than a pen for rosin flux.

Deadpool66 said:
Here are the caps I ordered if anyone needs the info.

Mouser #: 667-ECE-A1CKS470
Mfr. #: ECE-A1CKS470
Manufacturer: Panasonic
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 47UF 16V KS RADIAL
RoHS: RoHS Compliant
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mouser #: 647-UMA1C4R7MCD2TP
Mfr. #: UMA1C4R7MCD2TP
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 4.7UF 16V 85c
RoHS: RoHS Compliant
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mouser #: 647-UST1C100MDD1TE
Mfr. #: UST1C100MDD1TE
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 10uF 16V 105c 1.5mm 20%
RoHS: RoHS Compliant
Click to expand...
 
Awesome. The only thing holding me back was knowing what these caps were as I could not read the tops of mine. Thanks for posting the diagram, another xmen saved.
Ugly but works.

Deadpool66 said:
found a diagram with the cap values http://garakuta.homelinux.org/~nosuke/tsubo/files/misc/054544_memo.pdf.

Now I just need to know which side is positive and which is negative any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ill probably order the caps today and attempt the fix next weekend.
Click to expand...
 

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Damn wish my board would have been revived, SGG would you take a look at my board I would be happy to pay you for your time. Maybe I'm just skilled enough I used a meter checked continuity and all points are connected not sure where the issue lies unless the chip is just fried.
 
willkaotix said:
Awesome. The only thing holding me back was knowing what these caps were as I could not read the tops of mine. Thanks for posting the diagram, another xmen saved.
Ugly but works.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Great to see another X-Men board saved from silence. Hopefully more and more people will be able to try this on their boards.
 
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