My X-men 6 player Audio Fix Attemp

The static is at least promising I could hear the game coin up. I'm going to try soldering directly to the legs and bypass the damaged area. I'm still hopeful I can pull this off.
Keep fighting the good fight man! At least you can hear something that's definitely a plus. :)
 
My shipment from mouser will be in on Monday after being back ordered. Ill post pics with my progress. Deadpool any updates?
 
I saw a 6 player machine while I was at Cedar Point amusement park in Sandusky, OH yesterday. The poor thing was pretty beat and had no sound of course. I guess in a place like that having the sound isn't a huge deal for them. One of my immediate projects is to get the caps on my working board replaced. Good luck to you guys working on them also.
 
im going to try working on it some more tonight. Im pretty sure the traces are arcing in two spots. Anyone know if there is anything I can paint over an exposed trace to stop this?.



Another member got me a fully working board in the mean time.
 
for the 054986a audio chip i ordered 4.7uf 16v and 47uf 16v. i think the xmen chip has more caps on it. i went by this diagram
 

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well i started it today. soldered all the new caps on and fired it up.....all i hear is thump..screech..then nothing. checked all solder points for continuity, they all check out. seems im stuck for now.
 
I redid mine and now I have no sound just a thump when coining up ;-(. Im going to try bypassing the one exposed trace and see if that helps. Im thinking it would be easier to just get a replacement chip. Got a working board but that also has leaking caps so I cleaned it with denatured alcohol in hopes of preventing any damage. I will donate my non working board if someone can replicate this chip or make some type of bypass so annoying that they all have this issue.
 
I redid mine and now I have no sound just a thump when coining up ;-(. Im going to try bypassing the one exposed trace and see if that helps. Im thinking it would be easier to just get a replacement chip. Got a working board but that also has leaking caps so I cleaned it with denatured alcohol in hopes of preventing any damage. I will donate my non working board if someone can replicate this chip or make some type of bypass so annoying that they all have this issue.
It would be really cool if someone could reverse engineer this thing or at least start the process of documenting it. I would do it but that's just beyond my skill set right now. There was a new guy here called tkrn that documented the other version of this chip used on Lethal Enforcers. He mentioned he'd be willing to document the chip if someone sends him one. The only problem is he hasn't posted or been active since a month ago. Maybe worth a shot though.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=149877&highlight=men

On related note, Konami is releasing X-Men for PS3 and X-Box 360.

http://ps3.ign.com/articles/112/1126930p1.html
 
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Finally got my order placed for some replacement radial caps....no more surface mount attempts for me. I'm a bit nervous to mess with a working board, but considering I've seen that it was starting to leak, I don't have much choice.

@Deadpool66: Are you going to change the caps on the board you just bought? I guess I'm in the same boat as you on that one. I just don't see any other option but to change them before it does any real damage.
 
Finally got my order placed for some replacement radial caps....no more surface mount attempts for me. I'm a bit nervous to mess with a working board, but considering I've seen that it was starting to leak, I don't have much choice.

@Deadpool66: Are you going to change the caps on the board you just bought? I guess I'm in the same boat as you on that one. I just don't see any other option but to change them before it does any real damage.

I will probably change them but don't want to muck up my only working board which wasn't cheap. I figure that I'm going to have too even though I would rather not. I might give it a go this weekend.
 
I hear you there, but I feel pretty good about changing out the caps on my working set. It's fairly easy to replace since I will just solder to the legs of the original caps so I gotta believe my odds of success are good. Trying to revive a board that's been dead for a while is tough because it's definitely possible the electrolyte has damaged the connections between the top and bottom.
 
Don't stop believin', guys. This problem is really buggin' me also and a true solution would be one of the better discoveries in recent years. Good luck, everyone.
 
Don't stop believin', guys. This problem is really buggin' me also and a true solution would be one of the better discoveries in recent years. Good luck, everyone.
I would love to see a true solution available in the form of a total replacement chip or at least some kind of work workaround. The first thing we have to do is get this thing documented, both the top and bottom sides. I'd be willing to send one of my non-working boards to someone that can document the thing and I know Deadpool mentioned he'd be willing to send his too. I've also got a co-worker with a nice pace de-soldering station so maybe he could remove the chip and I could send just that. If anyone is willing to document this provided they get a chip and/or board, please let me know!
 
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Ok the chip next to the hybrid with the heat sink gets red hot..sigh seems the diagram is wrong or the cap values are not correct...
 
That's your audio amplifier chip.

What cab are you plugging it into? If you are plugging it into a stereo wired Neo Geo MVS cab then that will be the cause of it. The stereo wired cabs are NOT compatible with JAMMA boards.
 
Jamma test rig...I know Simpsons audio works on it so I assume it wouldn't cause this to heat up butyou never know. could it be possible that I have caps on backwards?
 
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