My X-men 6 player Audio Fix Attemp

Deadpool66

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Well ive decided to try and fix my x-men 6player project. Im starting with the first of two issues no sound using this guide.http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=149877. Ive cleared the paint and removed the caps and from what I can tell there is minimal damage with traces still intact although one has lost its green seal. The caps just fell apart when I pulled on them. Now Im wondering what the cap values are I have a spare k7000 cap kit hoping to fix this today or tommorow. Does anyone know what the values are? Also does the chip look salvageable?
 

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Good luck with the fix. I need to order some more radial caps to do the fix on my still working 6 player board. I have 2 others that I haven't had much luck in fixing, but I feel confident starting with an already working board.
 
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Good luck with the fix. I need to order some more radial caps to do the fix on my still working 6 player board. I have 2 others that I haven't had much luck in fixing, but I feel confident starting with an already working board.

I meant the positive and negative orientation on the custom sound chip. The chip looks good from what I can tell Im hoping for a miracle or if anything else some improved repair skills.
 
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Here's one from John Robertson's website, the guy who first tried the fix, at least as far as I can tell. Anyway, looks like the negative faces towards the edge of the board.

Konami_054544_054986A_Repair_Custom_Hybrid2.JPG
 
Thanks it does apear the negative side is the top. Looking at that chip gives me hope mine is in much better shape.
 
Thanks it does apear the negative side is the top. Looking at that chip gives me hope mine is in much better shape.
Yep and I think that one was successfully repaired I think. If you can catch these things early, especially before the electrolyte reaches the legs of the chip, you have the best chance at saving them. That's what I'm counting on for my working board. The black coating was easy to peel off in spots because the electrolyte had started to leak, but I think I caught it in time.
 
I noticed the same thing around the caps the paint just came off with a q-tip. Keep me posted with your progress and Ill do the same hopefully we can combine all this info into a guide that will help others.
 
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I noticed the same thing around the caps the paint just came off with a que tip. Keep me posted with your progress and Ill do the same hopefully we can combine all this info into a guide that will help others.
Will do. I was originally going to be all hardcore and put on surface mount caps, but I've realized it's not worth it so I will be ordering radial lead replacements. As I've said in probably every thread where someone is trying this, it's great to see this happening. It's really the only option we have right now unless someone can re-create this thing someday
 
Im def not going to do the surface mount caps ;-) too much frickin work and beyond my ability Im sure. The plan is to solder directly onto the old solder. Im going to order the caps but wont have a chance to try until this weekend.


Here are the caps I ordered if anyone needs the info.

Mouser #: 667-ECE-A1CKS470
Mfr. #: ECE-A1CKS470
Manufacturer: Panasonic
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 47UF 16V KS RADIAL
RoHS: RoHS Compliant
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mouser #: 647-UMA1C4R7MCD2TP
Mfr. #: UMA1C4R7MCD2TP
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 4.7UF 16V 85c
RoHS: RoHS Compliant
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mouser #: 647-UST1C100MDD1TE
Mfr. #: UST1C100MDD1TE
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 10uF 16V 105c 1.5mm 20%
RoHS: RoHS Compliant
 
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Does anyone know how I can test each point to tell which is positive or negative? I'm willing to pay someone to make a diagram of this chip with the correct orientation and cap values. I'm worried if I just use the force Ill put a cap in backwards and blow the whole thing. Ive contacted John Robertson and he may be able to help but nothing so far.
 
Check continuity with a meter, all points that have direct continuity will be negative.
I can't visually trace the left side very well from the pics, but this should give you and idea.....
 

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Thanks Kevin! Ill borrow a meter from work and test it tonight. Does the board have to be powered to get a read?
 
I have confirmed all negative points are facing the upper edge of the chip ;-). Ive been practicing my surface mount soldering on an old modem/router and feel confident I can get the job done. The Tenma soldering station I have now blows the old 15 dollar iron out of the water Ill keep you guys updated I hope the caps arrive tomorrow.
 
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I'm anxious to see the results of this. I've got one 4-P X-Men with sound on the way out and another that I'm sure will go bad one day.
 
Alright I soldered all the caps onto the old positions and I got static instead of nothing. I also noticed what apeared to be tiny sparking on two traces Im guessing there damaged? I jumpered the two points thats didnt have continuity now I have no sound again but Im also not seeing an sparking from the bad traces. Any suggestions I think Im going to throw in the towel for tonight and try again tommorow ;-(.Also Ive noticed the marquee light stays on even after switched off wtf.
 
Keep up the good work...not sure why the marquee light would stay on. Could you test a different board to see if its the cab? Strange that the board would keep that light on though but you never know how it could have been rewired after all these years.
 
Keep up the good work...not sure why the marquee light would stay on. Could you test a different board to see if its the cab? Strange that the board would keep that light on though but you never know how it could have been rewired after all these years.

The board isn't keeping the light on, silly. The marquee is wired to the "live" side of the power switch so its always on. Once the switch is flipped, power goes to the rest of the cabinet. My 6 player cabinet is the same way.
 
Too bad you didn't get the results you were looking for. :( Hopefully you have better success as you go along. That is weird your marquee light stays on, but if someone's been hacking in the machine, probably changing out the power supply, it's possible for that to happen. My machine doesn't have the original supply, but the marquee light doesn't stay on with the switch off either. There wouldn't be any reason for Konami to wire the thing so the marquee is always on.
 
The static is at least promising I could hear the game coin up. I'm going to try soldering directly to the legs and bypass the damaged area. I'm still hopeful I can pull this off.
 

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