My Story...My Defender Restoration

First Black Coat - Striping with Preval sprayer

Have been waiting for good weather to begin painting, used a preval sprayer, and pre thinned automotive lacquer from autozone, good coverage, but I can see a striped pattern from using the preval. I assume it will go away after a 24 hour cure? a slight breeze didn't allow me to keep the sprayer 12-14 inches away on the last coat. I'll see what it looks like tomorrow or if anybody has experienced the same, I'd be happy to hear-
 

Attachments

  • bsp200.jpg
    bsp200.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 59
  • photo(1).jpg
    photo(1).jpg
    94.7 KB · Views: 91
Injected some glue into some very slight de-lamination on one corner.

How do you inject glue into the wood? I doubt seriously you are using a syringe, but that's what comes to mind when I read that. I also assume you would need to clamp it together while the glue dries, how do you keep glue from running out and glueing the clamp to the wood?

I have also read in other threads about a wood hardener to do similar repairs. Again, I have wondered how to get enough in the wood and clamp it together without making a huge mess and making the clamp part of the cabinet.

A video of the process would be great!
 
glue injecting

How do you inject glue into the wood? I doubt seriously you are using a syringe, but that's what comes to mind when I read that. I also assume you would need to clamp it together while the glue dries, how do you keep glue from running out and glueing the clamp to the wood?

Yea I used a syringe, the one used for injecting marinades looks like it would work fine. I just kept filling up the gaps with glue and let gravity help. I think i even used some compressed air to drive it deeper. When it came time to clamp I just used some scrap blocks in between the clamps and the cabinet. When I clamp down, and glue runs out, I wipe up as much as I can, but I'm really not worried about it, If the blocks became glued to the cab, I just pop them off- If a cabinet has been de-laminated with water damage and/or age, your going to have some sanding and bondo work to do anyway.
 
Thanks for the info, I didn't think about using blocks. I think I need to find out more on the wood hardener too. Some cabinets aren't made out of plywood and its not a matter of de lamination so much as crumbling. I do love reading these restoration threads.
 
Started Stencils - One Mistake so far

Started Stencils last weekend, I'm satisfied with the results, using lacquers, the mistake- the half moon above the upper planet on the left side came up with the stencil, left a nice pattern though that I'm pretty sure I can mask off and re-shoot...My only question is what to use to mask it off, blue tape & frog tape is made for latex paints anybody ever use it with lacquers? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance to all...
 

Attachments

  • photo 1.jpg
    photo 1.jpg
    93 KB · Views: 83
  • photo 2.jpg
    photo 2.jpg
    95.8 KB · Views: 79
  • photo 3.jpg
    photo 3.jpg
    95.9 KB · Views: 103
Looking pretty good. I lucked out with my defender. Good original condition all number matching parts in side. Original WG4600 with almost no burn. I didn't have to do any cab work, but every single board inside needed work. Took me a few months of tinkering but I have it all up and running. Look forward to see more of your restoration progress.
 
Stencil progress

Hopefully the wind will die down enough to paint tomorrow morning...

I can't figure out why my pics come out sideways, how am I ever gonna get my defender back together...
 

Attachments

  • photo 1 copy.jpg
    photo 1 copy.jpg
    83.5 KB · Views: 59
  • photo 2 copy.jpg
    photo 2 copy.jpg
    84.5 KB · Views: 66
Red stencils complete

The red stage is now complete, had some air bubbles under the stencils, so I think it will create some work when it comes to lining up the yellow step. I have a few mistakes to touch up before I put the clear coat on - we will see, I have had to put my perfectionism aside and just keep plodding along, you can always find something wrong, but overall I'm happy with the results so far.
 

Attachments

  • photo 1 copy 2.jpg
    photo 1 copy 2.jpg
    94.4 KB · Views: 72
  • photo 2 copy 2.jpg
    photo 2 copy 2.jpg
    94.1 KB · Views: 76
Looking pretty darn good so far!

Quit picking your work apart, I bet none coming out of the factory were perfect either.

You are giving me incentive to work on all my Defenders.
 
Stencils Complete

Stencils complete, just some touch ups and then a coat of clear.
 

Attachments

  • photo 1(1).jpg
    photo 1(1).jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 70
  • photo 4.jpg
    photo 4.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 78
  • photo 5.jpg
    photo 5.jpg
    91 KB · Views: 108
Up and Running!

It's been over three years, but I reached a significant milestone in this restoration process last weekend, with the paint job virtually complete, I replaced all of the components, I didn't think I took enough pictures when I tore it down (thought of that after the fact) but I did label most everything - that's what all of the blue tape is you see throughout the cab, ran the grounding braid as best as I remember, going with the thought that if I just kept everything in contact somehow I should be ok. My son plugged it in, fired the pwer swith and she came to life exactly as she was! It still starts in Book-keeping mode, probably a power supply issue I'm told... But plays like a champ! Does anybody have any thoughts about leaving the machine on all the time or powering it down daily? Pros and Cons?

A few things left to go, T-Molding, new CP & Overlay, and some small odds n ends.
 

Attachments

  • photopav.jpg
    photopav.jpg
    86.8 KB · Views: 82
  • complete.jpg
    complete.jpg
    85.3 KB · Views: 86
  • backopen2.jpg
    backopen2.jpg
    97.7 KB · Views: 87
Power it down when you're not playing it. Saves electricity.

Just be sure to turn it on every few days/weeks. Electrical components do not like to be just sitting there unused. Things age quickly that way.
 
More Pics - Has Anybody seen this CPO?

More Pictures, of my work in progress... Has anybody seen this CPO? Original wood beneath it, stamped with the same date code, same font etc. as other parts of the cab. Sept 1981. The stainless door looks great thanks Dan! (djw90)... I'm going to be re-doing the CPo anyway so I thought this was as good a time as any to get a JROK Multi Board and put that in and just do a Multi CPO. My wife is glad it finished, and we have to move it inside soon so that the electronics aren't damaged from the cold when it's powered up and powered down all the time, 30 year old electronics are very temp sensitive when powered on and off...Back me up fellas...
 

Attachments

  • photo 4.jpg
    photo 4.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 76
  • photo 1(1).jpg
    photo 1(1).jpg
    85.8 KB · Views: 60
  • photo 2(1).jpg
    photo 2(1).jpg
    50.5 KB · Views: 51
Last edited:
It's a Metal Overlay - seems pretty well made..

It's metal seems like someone wanted to make it last, or be more durable against cigarette burns?...
 
That was a repo from back in the day,it is metal silk screened. The Defender I played back in the day had that CPO. I went looking for one and found a bunch of repo/Willis or what ever they are from an Op's warehouse. There were metal Defenders like yours as well as Stargate and Space Invader CPO's

Congrats, looks very cool and Defender is the best!!!
 
Metal CPO ID

Here is what is on the bottom right corner, I haven't googled any of it - but the number is disconnected...
 

Attachments

  • photo(6).jpg
    photo(6).jpg
    101.8 KB · Views: 58
Back
Top Bottom