Magog
New member
So I have talked about it for a while and a few folks have asked me to make a thread/video so here goes.
The goal was to get all 4 MK's (and War Gods, which is just MK 3.5 in my book) into one dedicated MK4 cabinet, Using a 6-in-1 JAMMA switcher. I got the idea after finding a video on youtube of Zenomorp doing it. He had hte same setup at one point that I have now basically. He has been immensely helpful to me in this project and I owe him a big thanks.
Here is the sorta story and some helpful hints to anyone doing the same or looking to.
First regarding the boards:
The 6-in-1 switcher is available from jammaboards.com http://www.jammaboards.com/store/6-in-1-multijamma-switcher-pcb/prod_250.html
It uses a remote to switch between the games. I chose this one as opposed to some of the other offerings out there such as Clay Cowgill's Multi-JAMMA, as this switcher only powers the board you are currently using, as opposed to all boards always on. However using this board requires some modding, as it doesn't push the -5 volt line (which you need for your sound) down the switcher from the JAMMA harness nor does it push the service switch down to all of the channels. I paid Jammaboards to do the -5 volt mod, but I ended up having sound issues. A fellow KLOVer (Zenomorp) later modded the board for me as well as added the service switch to all of the slots, and all was well.
Mortal Kombat 1 is a T-Unit Revision 5.0. Ideally you want to go with a T-Unit board for this project as it has the same pinouts for the JAMMA+ Harness as the other games, and I have heard of issues with button feedback even when using diodes (more on this later), when using one of the older Y-Unit boards. There is a sound board that requires interconnect wiring, a grey ribbon cable and a sound pot. Being that I am solder retarded I used Quick connects to put the sound pot on the board. It is a 50k Ohm pot from radio shack.
Mortal Kombat II is a single board unit. Not as common as the Dual board but very helpful if you can find one as it fits a hell of a lot better in the cramped switcher. Also has a sound board but no sound pot is needed.
UMK3 revision 1.1 currently has a CMOS error that I am working on but plays fine.
MK4 Revision 3 (final) came with the machine when I bought it.
War Gods; I have had the PCB for quite some time and have spent a number of months hunting up a HDD. Finally got one. A board, marquee and HDD on ebay from under $20.00. A note on War Gods...War Gods is actually a medium res game, no where in the manual will it tell you that it can be run on standard res, but it can. On Dip switch bank 1 set switch 1 to ON. I mention this as it may save you the trouble of trying two different War Gods boards in 2 different machines while swearing and smacking your head standing up from your game.
The cab I picked up is a Dedicated MK4 cab. Was in decent shape, could use a little touch up on the front, and the side box art on the CP could use replacing other then that it is in great shape. It needed a Cap kit and a flyback replacement which another fellow KLOVer kindly helped me get done (Animesuperj thank you).
Now for the project itself. I moved the power supply as that seemed to be the best place to fit for the switcher itself. I relocated it back more towards the rear and to the side.
Next I mounted the switcher PCB in such a way that the boards would fit snugly against the back wood of the coinbox. I mounted it so MK1 would be in slot one and would be left most when facing the machine from the rear. MKII in slot 2, UMK3 in slot 3, MK4 in slot 4 and War Gods in Slot 6 furtherest to the right.
I then mounted the MK1 Sound PCB to the side wall, and hung the pot there (once set I figured I don't need to adjust it much anymore). I then mounted the MKII sound board to the back wood of the coinbox above the switcher.
I mounted the War Gods HDD on the opposing side wall closest to where the board is slotted.
After mounting all of the boards I connected the sound board and HDD interconnect wires and ribbon cables.
The next step was the JAMMA+ Harness(or kick harness). You can't simply splice in 5 JAMMA+ harnesses. If you do you will get button feedback. Basically if you hit LP on one game it will act as if LP is always pushed down for all of the other games as if the button were stuck. The solution is to put diodes in each line. Being that I am solder retarded Zenomorp was kind enough to make me a nice JAMMA+ harness with the diodes wired in line.
After connecting the JAMMA+ harnesses to all of the boards, and then to the Control Panel, I was up and running.
Vids to follow but here are some pictures.
The goal was to get all 4 MK's (and War Gods, which is just MK 3.5 in my book) into one dedicated MK4 cabinet, Using a 6-in-1 JAMMA switcher. I got the idea after finding a video on youtube of Zenomorp doing it. He had hte same setup at one point that I have now basically. He has been immensely helpful to me in this project and I owe him a big thanks.
Here is the sorta story and some helpful hints to anyone doing the same or looking to.
First regarding the boards:
The 6-in-1 switcher is available from jammaboards.com http://www.jammaboards.com/store/6-in-1-multijamma-switcher-pcb/prod_250.html
It uses a remote to switch between the games. I chose this one as opposed to some of the other offerings out there such as Clay Cowgill's Multi-JAMMA, as this switcher only powers the board you are currently using, as opposed to all boards always on. However using this board requires some modding, as it doesn't push the -5 volt line (which you need for your sound) down the switcher from the JAMMA harness nor does it push the service switch down to all of the channels. I paid Jammaboards to do the -5 volt mod, but I ended up having sound issues. A fellow KLOVer (Zenomorp) later modded the board for me as well as added the service switch to all of the slots, and all was well.
Mortal Kombat 1 is a T-Unit Revision 5.0. Ideally you want to go with a T-Unit board for this project as it has the same pinouts for the JAMMA+ Harness as the other games, and I have heard of issues with button feedback even when using diodes (more on this later), when using one of the older Y-Unit boards. There is a sound board that requires interconnect wiring, a grey ribbon cable and a sound pot. Being that I am solder retarded I used Quick connects to put the sound pot on the board. It is a 50k Ohm pot from radio shack.
Mortal Kombat II is a single board unit. Not as common as the Dual board but very helpful if you can find one as it fits a hell of a lot better in the cramped switcher. Also has a sound board but no sound pot is needed.
UMK3 revision 1.1 currently has a CMOS error that I am working on but plays fine.
MK4 Revision 3 (final) came with the machine when I bought it.
War Gods; I have had the PCB for quite some time and have spent a number of months hunting up a HDD. Finally got one. A board, marquee and HDD on ebay from under $20.00. A note on War Gods...War Gods is actually a medium res game, no where in the manual will it tell you that it can be run on standard res, but it can. On Dip switch bank 1 set switch 1 to ON. I mention this as it may save you the trouble of trying two different War Gods boards in 2 different machines while swearing and smacking your head standing up from your game.
The cab I picked up is a Dedicated MK4 cab. Was in decent shape, could use a little touch up on the front, and the side box art on the CP could use replacing other then that it is in great shape. It needed a Cap kit and a flyback replacement which another fellow KLOVer kindly helped me get done (Animesuperj thank you).
Now for the project itself. I moved the power supply as that seemed to be the best place to fit for the switcher itself. I relocated it back more towards the rear and to the side.
Next I mounted the switcher PCB in such a way that the boards would fit snugly against the back wood of the coinbox. I mounted it so MK1 would be in slot one and would be left most when facing the machine from the rear. MKII in slot 2, UMK3 in slot 3, MK4 in slot 4 and War Gods in Slot 6 furtherest to the right.
I then mounted the MK1 Sound PCB to the side wall, and hung the pot there (once set I figured I don't need to adjust it much anymore). I then mounted the MKII sound board to the back wood of the coinbox above the switcher.
I mounted the War Gods HDD on the opposing side wall closest to where the board is slotted.
After mounting all of the boards I connected the sound board and HDD interconnect wires and ribbon cables.
The next step was the JAMMA+ Harness(or kick harness). You can't simply splice in 5 JAMMA+ harnesses. If you do you will get button feedback. Basically if you hit LP on one game it will act as if LP is always pushed down for all of the other games as if the button were stuck. The solution is to put diodes in each line. Being that I am solder retarded Zenomorp was kind enough to make me a nice JAMMA+ harness with the diodes wired in line.
After connecting the JAMMA+ harnesses to all of the boards, and then to the Control Panel, I was up and running.
Vids to follow but here are some pictures.
Attachments
Last edited:
(very quick thinking) +1 for that
