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I hooked up a coin switch today and again have the coin counter clicking but no game start. 'This is madness.' -c3po
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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
my Monaco GP repair status..
- Thread starter vintagegamer
- Start date
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I have no idea what took place once again, but after the game had been running for about 15 min, and I disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected the molex connector in the harness that the coin switch wires run through, I was able to start games once again. As done in my prior post, I tried troubleshooting some different things while the games would start, and didn't get much further. I did notice this time however, that after a game ran out of time, it would display my ranking on the LED board on the left, and the score that corresponded to that ranking was blinking so, it appears all of that logic is working (even though I can't control the car yet LOL).
Since I thought maybe the cleaning and reconnection of the molex connector in the harness fixed what was preventing the game starts from occurring, I powered the game down and reseated some of the chips on the 96578 board, hoping that might help restore some of the car control. After reseating 4 of the chips, I went and powered the game back up. Once again, I could not get a new game to start....... I disconnected and reconnected the molex connector again to see if that had been the culprit, but this time it did not allow me to start crediting up games again (although once more, I could hear the coin counter clicking so, the game is recognizing the active coin switch in the equation).
For fear of that stupid little coin board still being a part of the problem, I checked the 1 wire (it is a yellow wire) that's still attached to it, to see once more if it was a "hot" wire or not. It is drawing 5V DC. I got that reading when I put the red lead of the DMM on the yellow wire (the one going to the coin board) and putting the black DMM lead on the white common wire that's currently on the coin switch. Up until now, I've been trying to simply get this game up and running without that coin board thing in the equation- but I think somehow it's still tied into the required functionality or something.
I have drawn up a rough (very rough) wire diagram showing what I'm seeing in the console of the game. There is a yellow wire running from the wire harness that contains the coin switch wires (red, white, and blue) down to a little bridge-like setup. It ties in to one end of the bridge, and on the other end is a pink wire, also coming from the wire harness. From each pole (or end) of that bridge, there is a black wire running down to the coin counter in the coin bucket area below the seat. From the pole (or end) that the yellow wire runs down to, a separate yellow wire runs back up from that junction to the stupid coin board circuit thingy. I'm guessing that since the yellow wire running from that bridge up to the coin board is showing 5VDC that the yellow wires are the "hot" which power the coin counter, and the pink wire would be the negative, or the return back to the board to close out the coin counter circuit, correct? In any event, would this yellow wire possibly require some tie back into the red, white, and blue wires of the coin switch, to allow the game to start?
I still don't know how I've been able to start a game, but whatever the event is, after I've been able to do it once, I could start a thousand games after the first one by flipping the coin switch with no problem. It's just after a power down and back up that I seem to lose that ability. Anyone have any guesses or theories on this? I just want to friggin' play!
Thanks again for the help.
I have no idea what took place once again, but after the game had been running for about 15 min, and I disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected the molex connector in the harness that the coin switch wires run through, I was able to start games once again. As done in my prior post, I tried troubleshooting some different things while the games would start, and didn't get much further. I did notice this time however, that after a game ran out of time, it would display my ranking on the LED board on the left, and the score that corresponded to that ranking was blinking so, it appears all of that logic is working (even though I can't control the car yet LOL).
Since I thought maybe the cleaning and reconnection of the molex connector in the harness fixed what was preventing the game starts from occurring, I powered the game down and reseated some of the chips on the 96578 board, hoping that might help restore some of the car control. After reseating 4 of the chips, I went and powered the game back up. Once again, I could not get a new game to start....... I disconnected and reconnected the molex connector again to see if that had been the culprit, but this time it did not allow me to start crediting up games again (although once more, I could hear the coin counter clicking so, the game is recognizing the active coin switch in the equation).
For fear of that stupid little coin board still being a part of the problem, I checked the 1 wire (it is a yellow wire) that's still attached to it, to see once more if it was a "hot" wire or not. It is drawing 5V DC. I got that reading when I put the red lead of the DMM on the yellow wire (the one going to the coin board) and putting the black DMM lead on the white common wire that's currently on the coin switch. Up until now, I've been trying to simply get this game up and running without that coin board thing in the equation- but I think somehow it's still tied into the required functionality or something.
I have drawn up a rough (very rough) wire diagram showing what I'm seeing in the console of the game. There is a yellow wire running from the wire harness that contains the coin switch wires (red, white, and blue) down to a little bridge-like setup. It ties in to one end of the bridge, and on the other end is a pink wire, also coming from the wire harness. From each pole (or end) of that bridge, there is a black wire running down to the coin counter in the coin bucket area below the seat. From the pole (or end) that the yellow wire runs down to, a separate yellow wire runs back up from that junction to the stupid coin board circuit thingy. I'm guessing that since the yellow wire running from that bridge up to the coin board is showing 5VDC that the yellow wires are the "hot" which power the coin counter, and the pink wire would be the negative, or the return back to the board to close out the coin counter circuit, correct? In any event, would this yellow wire possibly require some tie back into the red, white, and blue wires of the coin switch, to allow the game to start?
I still don't know how I've been able to start a game, but whatever the event is, after I've been able to do it once, I could start a thousand games after the first one by flipping the coin switch with no problem. It's just after a power down and back up that I seem to lose that ability. Anyone have any guesses or theories on this? I just want to friggin' play!
Thanks again for the help.
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Looking at the below pics of 1badv6's machine once again, I'm noticing there's a grey wire soldered to the coin credit board and then it appears to run to the common tab of the coin switch. Mine does not have this.
Could this ground wire connected to the common tab possibly be all I need to close out the circuit? This setup is so wak'd.
Oh and it should be noted that 1badv6's game WORKS!
Could this ground wire connected to the common tab possibly be all I need to close out the circuit? This setup is so wak'd.
Oh and it should be noted that 1badv6's game WORKS!
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Found this little tidbit in the manual for the 1982 Sega Pengo game. I wonder if in any way this diagnosis could help with Monaco GP?
"6. Coin Switch Test
-This test checks the timing of the coin switch. Coin mech 1 will appear as A, and coin mech 2 as B. Either letter appearing within the BAD area indicates switch mis-timing. Adjust a faulty coin switch by bending the trip wire up or down, slightly."
"6. Coin Switch Test
-This test checks the timing of the coin switch. Coin mech 1 will appear as A, and coin mech 2 as B. Either letter appearing within the BAD area indicates switch mis-timing. Adjust a faulty coin switch by bending the trip wire up or down, slightly."
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Well, tonight i tried again. I was told by another gamer to try pulling the 2 ceramic caps at c36 and c37 bc maybe they were bad or shorted- i pulled them and sadly, no change. I'm starting to understand how Thomas Edison felt..
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Anyone? Bueller? Am I going to have to chop this game up in itty bitty pieces?
jcterzin
New member
Do you need a monitor for the Monaco? Ive got one that I cant get to work that came from a Monaco GP, or so I was told
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Not at this time, no- I just need the blasted game to coin up!
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jcpLinux
New member
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You can find the same but high definition pictures here
Je suis désolé...... tes photos sont parfaites!! Moi, je n'avais pas l'occasion pour prendre des photos moi-même!
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jcpLinux
New member
There is no problem that you use my pictures if that can help youJe suis désolé...... tes photos sont parfaites!! Moi, je n'avais pas l'occasion pour prendre des photos moi-même!
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Good luck on getting your Monaco GP working! Awesome game. . .
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As of Xmas morning, for whatever reason, the game was allowing me to coin up some. Upon starting the game, the car still appears in the bottom right-hand corner, and when you hit the gas pedal to start the game, the car just spins in an infinite loop until the 90-second timer runs out.
While troubleshooting the game, somehow I managed to botch the graphics which appear on the screen. What I'm seeing I think I also saw on a youtube vid of this game from another owner.
I'm trying really hard not to give up on this game, but man it's like nothing I've worked on before.
On the BYOAC forums, someone pointed out a 7411 chip on the coin circuit, at "logic gate 125" (shown on attached image). I see it on the pic, but I'm having a tough time grasping all of this logic gate VS corresponding component stuff.
AndyKMV recommended downloading a book from online but I haven't been able to do that yet.
At any rate, that's the latest I have on this game. I keep laughing because at the beginning of this year, I couldn't solder. Now people want me to understand logic gates. LMAO.
EDIT: I also forgot to mention that thanks to some additional troubleshooting info, I learned that there is an LED in the gas pedal PCB which is how the game recognizes when it's being moved. It can barely be seen because of how the PCB for that component is set up, but I thought that was pretty cool to find out.
While troubleshooting the game, somehow I managed to botch the graphics which appear on the screen. What I'm seeing I think I also saw on a youtube vid of this game from another owner.
I'm trying really hard not to give up on this game, but man it's like nothing I've worked on before.
On the BYOAC forums, someone pointed out a 7411 chip on the coin circuit, at "logic gate 125" (shown on attached image). I see it on the pic, but I'm having a tough time grasping all of this logic gate VS corresponding component stuff.
AndyKMV recommended downloading a book from online but I haven't been able to do that yet.
At any rate, that's the latest I have on this game.
I keep laughing because at the beginning of this year, I couldn't solder. Now people want me to understand logic gates. LMAO.EDIT: I also forgot to mention that thanks to some additional troubleshooting info, I learned that there is an LED in the gas pedal PCB which is how the game recognizes when it's being moved. It can barely be seen because of how the PCB for that component is set up, but I thought that was pretty cool to find out.
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