My mk1's transformer is a fuse destroyer need help!!!

[MKtrill]

this sounds exactly what happend to my mk3 cabinet. Every time i disconnected monitor from power, the game boots plays sounds coin doors, marquee, the works (except for the monitor), AS soon as i plug the monitor back into it, the power supply blows the right fuse Every single time........ people have suggested that it may be a grounding problem, what caused my monitor to go out was believe it or not, but a freaking microswitch happend to touch metal in the control panel, and Zap that was all she wrote. before then i would get shocked when wiping the dust off the monitor, or fooling with the microswitches and buttons. so it must be something to do with a grounding issue. Btw my monitor power cables ground wire was.... omitted from going into the power cable. so basically in the three prong connector, it went white, (blank), black the blank is where the green should have been going im assuming.... my cab does have an iso, and all that stuff. but anyway, ill be keeping an eye on this thread to see how it turns out for you, because it may indeed fix my problem as well.

 

[mecha]

your hot and neutrals could be hooked up backwards too. I always thought the AC connector for the K7000 was full of shit.

the Midway isolation transformer wire colors are: violet = black (hot) and violet/yellow = white (neutral)

green is earth ground.

 

[modessitt]

your hot and neutrals could be hooked up backwards too. I always thought the AC connector for the K7000 was full of shit.

the Midway isolation transformer wire colors are: violet = black (hot) and violet/yellow = white (neutral)

green is earth ground.

there is no hot and neutral once it goes through an iso...

 

[KenLayton]

Almost all of these cabinets were wired wrong. Midway connected everything to the output of the isolation transformer. Marquee light, bill acceptor, monitor, game power supply, etc.

Every one of these cabinets I have had to work on were wired wrong. I have had to reroute everything so that only the monitor was connected to the output of the isolation transformer.

I had found that the cabinets that had K7000 series monitors had blown C36 critical safety capacitor causing cabinet fuse to blow.

 

[mecha]

Almost all of these cabinets were wired wrong. Midway connected everything to the output of the isolation transformer. Marquee light, bill acceptor, monitor, game power supply, etc.

Every one of these cabinets I have had to work on were wired wrong. I have had to reroute everything so that only the monitor was connected to the output of the isolation transformer.

I had found that the cabinets that had K7000 series monitors had blown C36 critical safety capacitor causing cabinet fuse to blow.

any recommendations on what to do? I'm working on a Terminator 2 right now with basically all the same things you mentioned. well, minus the bill acceptor. I do have a dead K7000 with it too. if these were all wired wrong, why did all the monitors on the games we operated back in the day for about 3-5 years never take a shit?

and mod, the service manual says that in the color coding chart. just going based on that.

 

[theforce19]

Alrighty in a couple of days I should repost after I get my friend to discharge the monitor. Then he will take a look at it. But either way he said he will replace the flyback, the caps, and the HOT. Also do I need a special flyback? I was told if you have the K7000a you can't find replacement flybacks. But I have the K7197. Well the transformer still doesn't blow fuses by itself. You could hear it turn on and the coin door lights are on. But I will still try plugging in the monitor and trying it before I pull out the chassis. I just ordered these
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Glass-Fuses-100-...lectrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item255a2e560f

Thanks

 

[Oryk Zinyo]

Does your monitor chassis look like the ones on this page:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/7000.html

Or does it look like the one here:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/7000z.html

The second pic is not very good, but that is the Zenith chassis. The large black component hanging off of the left side of the board is the give away in the pic.


Hopefully you have the parts pictured in the first link. All repair parts are readily available for that chassis.

 

[theforce19]

Does your monitor chassis look like the ones on this page:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/7000.html

Or does it look like the one here:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/7000z.html

The second pic is not very good, but that is the Zenith chassis. The large black component hanging off of the left side of the board is the give away in the pic.


Hopefully you have the parts pictured in the first link. All repair parts are readily available for that chassis.

I have the same chassis and parts as the one in the first link. I have that weird green and beige chassis. Thats a good thing I have all parts readily available. I don't have the chassis by Zenith but my tube is made by Zenith. Thanks for the clarification

 

[theforce19]

Long time update for an almost dead thread (sorry to revive). Ok so my friend discharged my monitor and installed a capkit. But he told me that I don't need a new flyback since It still looks good(no cracks, goo, arc) also there are no sources for me to get a flyback except the USA and shipping will kill me. Should I replace the flyback? What problems does a bad flyback cause on the monitor. Also just a recap before, when I turned on the monitor the only thing that was showing was a red screen(nothing else) and the right top corner was blurry.

 

[eh97ac]

Long time update for an almost dead thread (sorry to revive). Ok so my friend discharged my monitor and installed a capkit. But he told me that I don't need a new flyback since It still looks good(no cracks, goo, arc) also there are no sources for me to get a flyback except the USA and shipping will kill me. Should I replace the flyback? What problems does a bad flyback cause on the monitor. Also just a recap before, when I turned on the monitor the only thing that was showing was a red screen(nothing else) and the right top corner was blurry.

Order the Flyback from Bob, his shipping is 7 or 8 bucks up North and is usually 5 business days

 

[mecha]

Long time update for an almost dead thread (sorry to revive). Ok so my friend discharged my monitor and installed a capkit. But he told me that I don't need a new flyback since It still looks good(no cracks, goo, arc) also there are no sources for me to get a flyback except the USA and shipping will kill me. Should I replace the flyback? What problems does a bad flyback cause on the monitor. Also just a recap before, when I turned on the monitor the only thing that was showing was a red screen(nothing else) and the right top corner was blurry.

the flyback on my K7000 that went kaboom didn't have any cracks, goo, or arcing either. it just fizzled one day, and the entire room smelled like burnt electronics.

for the little effort involved to do a new flyback (this is even easier than the cap kit, IMO) just do it.

your blurriness along the edges is symptomatic of a failing flyback, particularly if adjusting the focus doesn't improve the picture quality any or you have a very small window in which the image looks mostly focused and is blurry at other adjustment.

I did the flyback on my rejuved K7500 and the monitor looks like brand new now. and that's with the yoke wedges missing.

 

[theforce19]

Ok long time update but I need to end the thread lol. I found some arcade people in my city and they were repairing it. So pretty much what I was told was they replaced all shorted caps, one or two transistors, voltage regulator and rejuvenated my monitor. They say everything now looks crystal clear and all colours are sharp. They will be keeping the monitor on for 24 hours to test everything is stable and nothing will blow. So I will be picking it up in a couple of days and hopefully be playing some mk1! But I'm wondering what happens if it still keeps blowing fuses? It's probably my transformer then isn't it then?

 

[modessitt]

Check to make sure you actually have an ISOLATION transformer, and that it's putting out 120vac - BEFORE you hook the monitor up...

 

[theforce19]

Check to make sure you actually have an ISOLATION transformer, and that it's putting out 120vac - BEFORE you hook the monitor up...

I know I have one and hopefully its working (its the original transformer but the fuses have been replaced with newer ones)the coin lights are powered by it and they work so that must be a good sign. I will update in a couple of days and hopefully end the thread and my monitor problems.

 

[theforce19]

Ok I hope it would it work but it still hasn't! The monitor has been repaired and it works, I saw it hooked up to a mk2 and it was working very nicely! I brought it home hooked up everything up(power from transformer, remote board connection, wires from game)turn it on and it blew a transformer fuse. But the monitor this time did try to turn on but, before it could turn on the fuse blew. So I think the fuse always blows right before the monitor can turn on. So I think the fuses I have (3amp 125v) are not strong enough in volts for the monitor. I will try 3a 250v and see if there is a difference if not, I'm thinking of just replacing the transformer.

 

[modessitt]

Are you using slow blow fuses?

 

[theforce19]

Are you using slow blow fuses?

yup their slow blows!

 

[KenLayton]

I say something in the AC power path is not hooked up correctly.

 

[mecha]

well, I have ideas, I think. I encourage that you remove all the AC wiring from the cabinet, and for added measure, unscrew the isolation transformer from the floor. just remove anything relating to the electrical.

inspect ALL the wires for any frays, breaks, cuts, etc. flip the iso over, inside make sure that none of the hot/neutral wires are crossed.

I personally think that marquee being a plug-in-the-wall setup is stupid, but that's just me I guess. I suggest you wire that in with the existing wiring once you figure out what's going on here.

 

[theforce19]

I will look over everything today Mecha187 thanks. But I got the 3a 250v slow blow fuses threw them in and started it up. It made a very loud sound from the transformer, then it blew the fuse. Then I compared with the 3A 125v fuses(starting to doubt if they are slow blow) that I have. It doesn't make a loud transformer sound what so ever, only thing you can hear is the monitor trying to turn on but then shuts off very quickly.

Any other suggestions? Should I just get a new mk1 transformer?

Thanks