My missile command thread

I hope you didn't pay much for that service.

You absolutely can test a brick without a harness. There's no point in sending a brick to someone to just clean it, without actually testing it.

All it takes is a wall plug, and jumpering the power switch connections on the brick, and you can test the voltages on the output pins of the main brick connector.
I did not pay a lot. That was another rookie mistake. Andrew I can be playing this game. I got all of you guys rooting for me. Tomorrow after work I'll go get the brick, bring it home and take a look at every little detail
 
Generally, yes.

-03's and -02's provide the same voltages. The only difference is that the -03 is modified to allow slightly more current on the +12 and -5V outputs. (So an -03 is a little 'beefier' than an -02. Therefore you technically can always use an -03 in place of an -02, for games like Star Wars, Centipede, etc, that use -02's.)

Most games that use the +12 and -5V only use those voltages for audio, which draws a certain amount of current. However Missile Command also uses tri-voltage RAM, which increases the current draw on the +12 and -5, more than other boards that don't use tri-voltage RAM. Hence why they modified the AR.

I've never measured to see exactly how much current an MC game board draws on the +12 and -5, and how close it comes to maxing out the regulators on an -02. But I don't think it's that close. I personally have run an -02 in an MC cabaret and had no problems. But every board draws slightly different amounts of current, depending on the brand of chips used, etc. So there's some margin between what an MC game board draws, and the max that the AR can provide. And with manufacturing variation, maybe it's possible to get some cases where a specific cab might not work with an -02, if there isn't enough margin.

In theory, the worst that would happen is glitching and random resetting. But I think there are far more documented cases of people running -02's in MC's with no problems, than folks that have had issues. So I think there's enough margin for -02's to be fine in most cases.

Bottom line, it's fine to try an -02 in a MC. And if the game runs fine, you're fine.

That's a whole lot of words to be completely wrong about when more current on +12 / -5 is needed.

If the board doesn't use TMS2708/TMS2716 EPROMs it doesn't need the additional ampacity of the -03.

8x 4116s don't take all that much current on the +12/-5 -- Williams games run 24x off of a 7905.

He's running a kit with a single ROM mod, so there's no issue (and it wasn't configured to work with 2708s).
 
That's a whole lot of words to be completely wrong about when more current on +12 / -5 is needed.

If the board doesn't use TMS2708/TMS2716 EPROMs it doesn't need the additional ampacity of the -03.

8x 4116s don't take all that much current on the +12/-5 -- Williams games run 24x off of a 7905.

He's running a kit with a single ROM mod, so there's no issue (and it wasn't configured to work with 2708s).

Feel free to jump in and provide the correct information ahead of time, kiddo.

Oh wait, you don't.

And there's a difference between being incomplete and completely wrong. I'll gladly admit to former, and take the clarification (which is more than I see you ever do). Either way, the bottom line is the same. Some boards will draw more on the +12 and -5, and others won't. And nobody has actually measured it to see how much margin there is.

But if an -02 works in a given cab, it works.
 
And there's a difference between being incomplete and completely wrong.

Maybe if this thread were in the tech section, I would have seen it and your wrong answers sooner.

Too lazy to see what's connected to 12V in the schematics?
Too lazy to pull a datasheet?

Gee, I wonder what's a bigger draw on the -5V.... the 8x 4116s:
1729713789490.png

Or the 11x 2708s:
1729713856795.png

Hint 11x45mA is ~310*x 8x200uA.
I guess that makes your answer about 0.32% "complete".

(Cue whining about how max current isn't a plausible max...)
(Cue whining about me ignoring an opamp...)

And nobody has actually measured it to see how much margin there is.
Just because you're too lazy to do it doesn't mean nobody has.
Those of us with enough technical expertise and common sense to understand the design don't need an exact current.

But if an -02 works in a given cab, it works.

...and you still miss the fucking point. It has nothing to do with the "cab", it has to do with how the PCB is populated.
 
Too lazy to see what's connected to 12V in the schematics?

Why bother when I can bait you into doing it.

Thanks for looking up all those specs. Now try doing it voluntarily, instead of in reaction to something I post.


(Cue whining about how max current isn't a plausible max...)
(Cue whining about me ignoring an opamp...)

It's hilarious how pedantry matters to you when you're the one giving it, but not the one receiving it.


...and you still miss the fucking point. It has nothing to do with the "cab", it has to do with how the PCB is populated.

And how a given PCB is populated will vary FROM CAB TO CAB (i.e., case to case).

Jesus you're great with numbers, but you seem to have a hard fucking time with English.
 
Why bother when I can bait you into doing it.
Pathetic.
Do you fucking homework and learn something on your own for once.

Thanks for looking up all those specs. Now try doing it voluntarily, instead of in reaction to something I post.
Why can't you do it voluntarily instead of posting misinformation, clown?

And how a given PCB is populated will vary FROM CAB TO CAB (i.e., case to case).
...and clearly nobody could ever possibly swap boards in a single cabinet...
 
Another thread I have to unwatch because of the bickering. You both have great skills and just look bad in these arguments.

Get help.
 
...and clearly nobody could ever possibly swap boards in a single cabinet...

To quote you:

...and you still miss the fucking point.

Since you seem to have such a hard time understanding things from anyone's perspective besides your own, I guess I have to explain it more clearly:

The context of my original comment was speaking to the general NON-TECHNICAL audience here. Meaning that if you have any MC cabinet, and you want to try an -02 in it, you can do so. And if it works in that game (i.e., CABINET), you're good to go.

The implication being that THE FUCKING BOARD IN THAT CABINET is one that FOR ANY APPLICABLE REASON related to how it's populated (ROMs, RAM, HSS kit or otherwise) does not require the added current of an -03. Cabinet does not LITERALLY MEAN the wood cabinet itself is responsible for the difference. CABINET refers to the particular game that you own.

Is English really that hard? Try to imagine things from the average person's perspective here, and not yours or mine.
 
Since you seem to have such a hard time understanding things from anyone's perspective besides your own, I guess I have to explain it more clearly:

Since you have a hard time understanding anything:

He showed a picture of his board.
That is enough information for me (but not you, apparently) to know that a -02 should work fine in with that board.

A -02 will probably seem to work for a while with any board, but you're stressing the regulators, making them likely to fail in the future, making "it works in the cab" a stupid test.

Is English really that hard? Try to imagine things from the average person's perspective here, and not yours or mine.
For you apparently -- as is reading schematics...
 
So i took the power brick out and took it home. fuse F5 is blown. i have a pack of MC fuses I bought of arcade shop. i cant find that fuse in the pack. will an s20A 32V work?
is that the fuse in the pack?
 
the F5 fuse is blown. 8a 125 volt normal fuse. i have a MC set of fuses which i bought of the arcade shop but it does not have that fuse. it has a 32 volt. is there a fuse i can use in the pack ? it has 7a 20a and 25a
 
the F5 fuse is blown. 8a 125 volt normal fuse. i have a MC set of fuses which i bought of the arcade shop but it does not have that fuse. it has a 32 volt. is there a fuse i can use in the pack ? it has 7a 20a and 25a
You already cleared an 8 amp fuse, so putting a 7 in would likely clear. Fuses are sized to protect the wires by the way.

This is what the manual calls for. Go find some at the hardware store, or order them online.

1729954897959.png

You already cleared 1 fuse. Order a bunch, and check to see if you have a ground or a short somewhere on that line (which is how you clear a fuse.)

1729955100922.png


You can see from the above that F5 comes right off the regulators. Make sure you don't have the Big Blue pulled up so high that the leads on the regulator are shorting to the case. If they are, it can clear that fuse and might damage the diodes in the bridge regulator.
 
You already cleared an 8 amp fuse, so putting a 7 in would likely clear. Fuses are sized to protect the wires by the way.

This is what the manual calls for. Go find some at the hardware store, or order them online.

View attachment 777246

You already cleared 1 fuse. Order a bunch, and check to see if you have a ground or a short somewhere on that line (which is how you clear a fuse.)

View attachment 777247


You can see from the above that F5 comes right off the regulators. Make sure you don't have the Big Blue pulled up so high that the leads on the regulator are shorting to the case. If they are, it can clear that fuse and might damage the diodes in the bridge regulator.
How do I find out the readings on the line. Do I plug it in and use the Dmm? If so what do I put the dmm on?
 
You already cleared an 8 amp fuse, so putting a 7 in would likely clear. Fuses are sized to protect the wires by the way.

This is what the manual calls for. Go find some at the hardware store, or order them online.

View attachment 777246

You already cleared 1 fuse. Order a bunch, and check to see if you have a ground or a short somewhere on that line (which is how you clear a fuse.)

View attachment 777247


You can see from the above that F5 comes right off the regulators. Make sure you don't have the Big Blue pulled up so high that the leads on the regulator are shorting to the case. If they are, it can clear that fuse and might damage the diodes in the bridge regulator.
I get it
 
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