My missile command thread

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Checked the board and the AR and power is fine. There at the settings you all mentioned. So is it getting the right power to run the game?. It is quite possible I fried something.

When you report stuff here, saying 'it's fine' is not what we are looking for.

What voltages did you measure (to two decimal places each), and where did you measure each of them?
 
When you report stuff here, saying 'it's fine' is not what we are looking for.

What voltages did you measure (to two decimal places each), and where did you measure each of them?
Andrew, what should I measure? Do you have a certain list to measure to bring up a game. I'll go measure everything tomorrow. I just need to know exactly what to measure. I know you have helped me considerably but I get overwhelmed and can't stand my baby not working
 
Andrew, what should I measure? Do you have a certain list to measure to bring up a game. I'll go measure everything tomorrow. I just need to know exactly what to measure. I know you have helped me considerably but I get overwhelmed and can't stand my baby not working

Measure the following on the AR, with the game board unplugged:

- The 10.3V DC test point.
- The 5V DC. Note that there is no 5V test point on AR-II's. However you can use the positive (+) side of the C1 cap on the AR.
- The +22V and -22V DC (via test points on the right side of the AR, i.e., the opposite from the 10.3/5V side).
- The 12V DC test point.
- The -5V DC test point.

Also, put your DMM into *AC* volts mode (not DC), and measure the AC voltage on the 10.3V DC test point. (Yes, it's ok to do this.)

Post all above values here to two decimal places (e.g., 5.05V).

Then test the 5V, 12V, and -5V on the game board, and post those as well. There are test points for each, on the left side of the board (i.e., the end furthest away from the edge connector).

Also, for all measurements (and this is a universal rule, for testing voltages on any board), always use a ground (GND) test point *on the same board you're measuring the voltage on* as the ground reference for that measurement. So for the AR measurements, use any GND test point on the AR. And for the game board voltages, use any GND test point on the game board.
 
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Measure the following on the AR, with the game board unplugged:

- The 10.3V DC test point.
- The 5V DC. Note that there is no 5V test point on AR-II's. However you can use the positive (+) side of the C1 cap on the AR.
- The +22V and -22V DC (via test points on the right side of the AR, i.e., the opposite from the 10.3/5V side).
- The 12V DC test point.
- The -5V DC test point.

Also, put your DMM into *AC* volts mode (not DC), and measure the AC voltage on the 10.3V DC test point. (Yes, it's ok to do this.)

Post all above values here to two decimal places (e.g., 5.05V).

Then test the 5V, 12V, and -5V on the game board, and post those as well. There are test points for each, on the left side of the board (i.e., the end furthest away from the edge connector).

Also, for all measurements (and this is a universal rule, for testing voltages on any board), always use a ground (GND) test point *on the same board you're measuring the voltage on* as the ground reference for that measurement. So for the AR measurements, use any GND test point on the AR. And for the game board voltages, use any GND test point on the game board.
Gotcha
 
Measure the following on the AR, with the game board unplugged:

- The 10.3V DC test point.
- The 5V DC. Note that there is no 5V test point on AR-II's. However you can use the positive (+) side of the C1 cap on the AR.
- The +22V and -22V DC (via test points on the right side of the AR, i.e., the opposite from the 10.3/5V side).
- The 12V DC test point.
- The -5V DC test point.

Also, put your DMM into *AC* volts mode (not DC), and measure the AC voltage on the 10.3V DC test point. (Yes, it's ok to do this.)

Post all above values here to two decimal places (e.g., 5.05V).

Then test the 5V, 12V, and -5V on the game board, and post those as well. There are test points for each, on the left side of the board (i.e., the end furthest away from the edge connector).

Also, for all measurements (and this is a universal rule, for testing voltages on any board), always use a ground (GND) test point *on the same board you're measuring the voltage on* as the ground reference for that measurement. So for the AR measurements, use any GND test point on the AR. And for the game board voltages, use any GND test point on the game board.
I have a AR3
 
I have a AR3

You have an AR-II-03, which is an AR-II.

AR3 (AR-III) is a completely different AR, used in later games like Paperboy.

An AR-II-03 is almost identical to an AR-II-02 (and looks the same), and both have all of the test points I listed above.

All AR-II-0x types use the same PCB (which is the same PCB as the one you have). The only difference between the -01, -02, -03, -04, -05, and -06 types are which sections of the PCB are populated, to support the different output voltages.

If you take the AR-II-03 you have, and desolder and remove all of the parts from the right hand side, you have an AR-II-01 (used in Pole Position and other games). To see which game use which types, see and bookmark this page.

-02's and -03's have all sections populated, so they output all of the voltages I listed. You measure the same voltages on the same test points for each.

Measure all of the voltages I listed, on the specified test points.
 
You have an AR-II-03, which is an AR-II.

AR3 (AR-III) is a completely different AR, used in later games like Paperboy.

An AR-II-03 is almost identical to an AR-II-02 (and looks the same), and both have all of the test points I listed above.

All AR-II-0x types use the same PCB (which is the same PCB as the one you have). The only difference between the -01, -02, -03, -04, -05, and -06 types are which sections of the PCB are populated, to support the different output voltages.

If you take the AR-II-03 you have, and desolder and remove all of the parts from the right hand side, you have an AR-II-01 (used in Pole Position and other games). To see which game use which types, see and bookmark this page.

-02's and -03's have all sections populated, so they output all of the voltages I listed. You measure the same voltages on the same test points for each.

Measure all of the voltages I listed, on the specified test points.
Gotcha thanks for the clarification!!😃
 
Andrewb can i use a AR-II-02 on my missile command ? My -03 is not working

Generally, yes.

-03's and -02's provide the same voltages. The only difference is that the -03 is modified to allow slightly more current on the +12 and -5V outputs. (So an -03 is a little 'beefier' than an -02. Therefore you technically can always use an -03 in place of an -02, for games like Star Wars, Centipede, etc, that use -02's.)

Most games that use the +12 and -5V only use those voltages for audio, which draws a certain amount of current. However Missile Command also uses tri-voltage RAM, which increases the current draw on the +12 and -5, more than other boards that don't use tri-voltage RAM. Hence why they modified the AR.

I've never measured to see exactly how much current an MC game board draws on the +12 and -5, and how close it comes to maxing out the regulators on an -02. But I don't think it's that close. I personally have run an -02 in an MC cabaret and had no problems. But every board draws slightly different amounts of current, depending on the brand of chips used, etc. So there's some margin between what an MC game board draws, and the max that the AR can provide. And with manufacturing variation, maybe it's possible to get some cases where a specific cab might not work with an -02, if there isn't enough margin.

In theory, the worst that would happen is glitching and random resetting. But I think there are far more documented cases of people running -02's in MC's with no problems, than folks that have had issues. So I think there's enough margin for -02's to be fine in most cases.

Bottom line, it's fine to try an -02 in a MC. And if the game runs fine, you're fine.
 
I took some readings and came to these AR
10.3 volts= 0.11
+22= 18.20
-22= 18.27
12v= 12.08
-5v= 4.99

on the board i got these

left side
-5v= 5
12v= 12.0

right side of board

absoutly no readings on anything.
 
I took some readings and came to these AR
10.3 volts= 0.11
+22= 18.20
-22= 18.27
12v= 12.08
-5v= 4.99

on the board i got these

left side
-5v= 5
12v= 12.0

right side of board

absoutly no readings on anything.
And I noticed this on the AR board. Seems burnt out
 

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I took some readings and came to these AR
10.3 volts= 0.11
+22= 18.20
-22= 18.27
12v= 12.08
-5v= 4.99

on the board i got these

left side
-5v= 5
12v= 12.0

right side of board

absoutly no readings on anything.

If the 10.3 is actually reading 0.11, then you have a brick problem. The AR isn't getting any power at its input for the 5V side.

(Also, I assume your measurements above for the -5V is actually -4.99, and not +4.99. And the same thing goes for your game board result above.)

The burned spot on the AR is one of the sense resistors. It's normal for these to burn up when the edge connector fingers on the game board get dirty and oxidized. This is covered in many threads here. It looks like someone already replaced the resistor. The solution for that is to get a fiberglass pen and some DeOxit and clean the edge connector fingers of the game board. However that's more of a maintenance issue right now, and not the root cause of your problems.

How does the edge connector on the game board look? (The PCB, not the harness.) Are there any burned fingers?

However that's going to be separate from why you aren't getting 10.3. You have a problem with the brick, or the wiring between the brick and the AR.

Remove the brick and inspect the underside, as well as testing all fuses. (Remove each fuse from the block and test it for continuity with a DMM.) Also, are any of the fuse holder tabs browned or burned up at all?
 
If the 10.3 is actually reading 0.11, then you have a brick problem. The AR isn't getting any power at its input for the 5V side.

(Also, I assume your measurements above for the -5V is actually -4.99, and not +4.99. And the same thing goes for your game board result above.)

The burned spot on the AR is one of the sense resistors. It's normal for these to burn up when the edge connector fingers on the game board get dirty and oxidized. This is covered in many threads here. It looks like someone already replaced the resistor. The solution for that is to get a fiberglass pen and some DeOxit and clean the edge connector fingers of the game board. However that's more of a maintenance issue right now, and not the root cause of your problems.

How does the edge connector on the game board look? (The PCB, not the harness.) Are there any burned fingers?

However that's going to be separate from why you aren't getting 10.3. You have a problem with the brick, or the wiring between the brick and the AR.

Remove the brick and inspect the underside, as well as testing all fuses. (Remove each fuse from the block and test it for continuity with a DMM.) Also, are any of the fuse holder tabs browned or burned up at all?
Yes that reading is right. I took it ten times. It makes sense then right that the monitor won't kick on? Anyone on here fix power bricks?
 
Yes that reading is right. I took it ten times. It makes sense then right that the monitor won't kick on? Anyone on here fix power bricks?

- If the brick isn't working, then there is no +5V.

- With no +5V, the game board will not work.

- With the game board not working, there will be nothing on the monitor.

Even if the monitor has separate issues (which it may), those are irrelevant until you fix the other issues, and get the power corrected, then get the game board working blind (as it still may not boot, even with proper power, if it has other issues). Only then should you care about the monitor. So you have other work to do.

You can't just ship a brick out when you think it has a problem. If you're in this hobby, you need to be able to diagnose things, and narrow down where problems are.

The next step is to follow the last set of instructions I gave. When things are not working (which you determine by testing power with your DMM), the next step is visual inspection and cleaning of connections.

Remove the brick, inspect underneath it, and clean and test the fuses in the block. For all you know there could be a family of mice living under the brick, and all the wires are chewed. Inspect all other wiring in the cab as well, looking closely for damage, broken or frayed wires, etc. And remove and test all fuses.

If you don't know how to do any of the above, ask.
 
If the 10.3 is actually reading 0.11, then you have a brick problem. The AR isn't getting any power at its input for the 5V side.

(Also, I assume your measurements above for the -5V is actually -4.99, and not +4.99. And the same thing goes for your game board result above.)

The burned spot on the AR is one of the sense resistors. It's normal for these to burn up when the edge connector fingers on the game board get dirty and oxidized. This is covered in many threads here. It looks like someone already replaced the resistor. The solution for that is to get a fiberglass pen and some DeOxit and clean the edge connector fingers of the game board. However that's more of a maintenance issue right now, and not the root cause of your problems.

How does the edge connector on the game board look? (The PCB, not the harness.) Are there any burned fingers?

However that's going to be separate from why you aren't getting 10.3. You have a problem with the brick, or the wiring between the brick and the AR.

Remove the brick and inspect the underside, as well as testing all fuses. (Remove each fuse from the block and test it for continuity with a DMM.) Also, are any of the fuse holder tabs browned or burned up at all?
 

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- If the brick isn't working, then there is no +5V.

- With no +5V, the game board will not work.

- With the game board not working, there will be nothing on the monitor.

Even if the monitor has separate issues (which it may), those are irrelevant until you fix the other issues, and get the power corrected, then get the game board working blind (as it still may not boot, even with proper power, if it has other issues). Only then should you care about the monitor. So you have other work to do.

You can't just ship a brick out when you think it has a problem. If you're in this hobby, you need to be able to diagnose things, and narrow down where problems are.

The next step is to follow the last set of instructions I gave. When things are not working (which you determine by testing power with your DMM), the next step is visual inspection and cleaning of connections.

Remove the brick, inspect underneath it, and clean and test the fuses in the block. For all you know there could be a family of mice living under the brick, and all the wires are chewed. Inspect all other wiring in the cab as well, looking closely for damage, broken or frayed wires, etc. And remove and test all fuses.

If you don't know how to do any of the above, ask.
Funny thing is the brick was filthy and I was in my I want things shiny and new so I sent the brick out to be inspected and everything came back good except he could not test it with out a harness. I will pull it out again and check all fuses and wiring as when shipped back to me something could have happened
 
Funny thing is the brick was filthy and I was in my I want things shiny and new so I sent the brick out to be inspected and everything came back good except he could not test it with out a harness. I will pull it out again and check all fuses and wiring as when shipped back to me something could have happened

I hope you didn't pay much for that service.

You absolutely can test a brick without a harness. There's no point in sending a brick to someone to just clean it, without actually testing it.

All it takes is a wall plug, and jumpering the power switch connections on the brick, and you can test the voltages on the output pins of the main brick connector.
 
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