my Hantarex Polo guide (everything you need to know)

mecha

mecha

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my Hantarex Polo guide (everything you need to know)

524487_10100616339911979_451307303_n_800x479.jpg


http://www.organizedmassconfusion.org/hantarex-polo-maintenance/

I took so many pictures to put this together that I felt it wasn't really suitable to structure a bunch of posts on here to showcase it. it's more or less a compilation of information that I've obtained or learned from my 3 years of working on these.

I don't feel that I'm a "guru" on them of any kind, this is more of a noob's guide than anything, I've found that users Ohmerone and arcadecrt are the most knowledgeable on the electronics side of things.

it shows how to disassemble it and some other useful tweaks and information about adjusting and maintaining it that I've picked up along the way. I'm not entirely sure if it's sticky-worthy, but if anyone feels compelled to do that then that would be very cool.

Manual: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Hantarex Polo.pdf
Schematics/Parts List: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Hantarex Polo Schematics.pdf
Cap Map (by mecha): http://www.organizedmassconfusion.org/uploads/polocapmap.png
 
what's it doing? I neglected to mention that one transistor in the PSU part, T101 I think it's called, it's the one on the heatsink, if that shorts out it'll nuke the chassis fuse.

reading the datasheet for it, I think that's the voltage regulator.. does that sound right?
 
It powers up. When the flyback is disconnected I hear what I believe is the HOT working. With the flyback connected you hear the rest of the high voltage. The flyback has voltage but I don't know how to measure it as of right now. Fuse is good. I haven't replaced the caps yet but I have a kit ordered. (none look bad off the bat - I'm about to do a better once over to look for cold solders, broken circuits anything out of the ordinary). I had tested the B+ voltage at that point already and it was just about 138V. I followed the flowchart and got to Heater Not Working (it's not - no glow). R35 tested fine, but I didn't open the heater circuit. The chart says look for bad solders on the high voltage unit. I'm assuming this means the flyback transformer.
I am also ordering a new HOT and whatever other transistors I find are common failure points.
Adjusting the settings on the monitor does nothing to even get some sort of raster on the monitor.

EDIT: I found that one of the filter caps is bulging out the top and that the large rectangle resistor behind it is loose, a cold solder i guess. I'll be fixing those and seeing what that does along with a cap kit and new HOT.
 
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I'm not sure about T101, but the schematics say they are good for 14, 16, 20, and 21" I have the 25" unit, I wonder how similar they are...

EDIT: Nevermind, I already have the schematic for the 25" polo.
 
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make note of those pictures towards the end of the guide where I show all those broken traces around the flyback. I'm serious when I say this, I thought those were just scratches, and turned out to be cracks. there was about 3 cracks where the flyback sits on the top.. that's why I had high voltage but no heater, the traces to those flyback pins were cracked.

the fucking staggering part is that was a worked over chassis in my KI2 that I never even took out before, and it developed that T101 short and the flyback cracks seemingly on its own over time.

well.. and the color transistors needed a serious working over. and some dickhead had caps installed in it backwards.. so I had to re-cap the whole thing. whatever lol
 
Nice guide and writeup - thanks!

About 2 years ago, my buddy and I were working on a 25" polo, and he replaced the fly on his. After replacing it, we noticed a dark vertical band about a 1/3 of the width of the screen that slowly floats across the image. You comments about the filter cap seem to jive with what we saw, no?
 
accidently ordered too many HOT's for one of these polo's
PM me if you need one of these
thanks for the write up as im trying to get mine up and running
 
Thanks for this thread Mecha! Really great timing, as I have a dead Polo 25" that I got as part of a lot buy. The tube is very clean so I'd like to get it working again. There's definitely some weirdness going on though! Some stuff soldered to the bottom of the PCB, looks like the wrong flyback & neckboard socket were installed, etc. I'll post a thread once I get enough pics and documentation.
 
My polo 25 has 330 uf B+ filter caps, your guide shows 470 or something. This thing has had some work done to it, so is the 330 uF caps the correct ones? It's in high voltage shutdown right now... but was powering up before I replaced one of the 330's that was all bulged out as well as the HOT.
 
I have about 5 or 6 of these chassis.. and they all came with 470 uF / 200V caps.

reason yours is probably all bulged out and F-ed is because it's not big enough to handle it lol. I think I remember you talking about that a long time ago actually.

either that or someone else had one with 330s instead too (same blown up cap problem)

smalltownguy2 said:
Nice guide and writeup - thanks!

About 2 years ago, my buddy and I were working on a 25" polo, and he replaced the fly on his. After replacing it, we noticed a dark vertical band about a 1/3 of the width of the screen that slowly floats across the image. You comments about the filter cap seem to jive with what we saw, no?
Click to expand...

I'm not entirely sure actually. what was really weird was I had 2 Polos I'd worked on a few months back. I never heard of the line issue on the left side before, and now all of a sudden on the one chassis that still worked, with the bad blooming (which incidentally, it had to begin with, and I pulled what I thought were "good" filter caps off another dead chassis) and it had the lines too. I had to severely mess around with the brightness and contrast and screen pots to get them to go away. now that I think about it though, I almost wonder if maybe the replacement flybacks might have something to do with it.

it has much to do with the brightness, make sure your blacks are pitch black, and if your tubes as healthy as mine are, you can go a little nuts with the contrast before it bleeds and the lines should go away at least.

I had another thread about earth ground ghosting with the Midway/Williams isolation transformers that nobody on all of KLOV seemed to give a shit about. be certain you're not getting ghosting from the earth ground if you have an iso..

next mouser order I do I think I'm going to buy all new filter caps for my working Polos. if I could rattle off all the values for the block capacitors, I wonder if someone could help us all find those too, cause apparently those owe a ton to the repeated failures of these if they're old and not replaced.
 
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I just finished working on my brothers Polo 25 and just wanted to say thanks for your repair page! It was definitely a help during the repair.

Here's a couple links that I found for the schematics for the 25/28 inch models. The other schematics are for the 21 inch and smaller versions.
http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/raster monitors/hantarex/polo_25/polo_25.pdf
and
http://www.progettoemma.net/public/antarex-schema001.pdf

I also updated your cap map with the missing numbers but it's on a different PC. I'll try to upload it later today.

Mitch
 
Here's the updated cap map in the zip file. Mecha, feel free to use it on your site if you want.

I added the two missing cap numbers, I also added a missing cap in the middle of the board (C142), corrected a typo (C120 should actually be C130) and added the polarity to the filter caps. This is all based on my 25 inch Polo chassis, I think some of the other size Polo chassis are slightly different.

I forgot to write down the part numbers for the filter caps before I soldered them in and didn't feel like pulling them again to check. So I don't have the part numbers for those.

Lastly, C401 is on the remote board and not shown on the cap map.

Mitch
 

Attachments

  • polocapmap2.zip
    49.7 KB · Views: 212
Thanks for your help. I whipped the cap map together at home with no tools and a scrap chassis, hence the mistakes or omissions. Think I made it for supadave1.. at any rate I'll try to update this. My entire life is a shambles right now with my grandpa passing (bunch of legal nonsense over the arcade etc.)
 
thanks for the helpful guide, at the moment I have an issue with a polo/2-28 15/25Khz the H. Amp doesn't work. already replaced the remote board but didn't help....any idea?
 
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