My first WG6100 rebuild attempt, some questions

Gov

Active member
Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
1,016
Reaction score
1
Location
Springfield, Missouri
I am venturing into my first major monitor rebuild/repair with a WG6100 out of a Space Duel I picked up a while back. I ordered a new flyback and deluxe rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. So it all arrived today, I promptly pulled the monitor out of the cabinet and set to looking around at things. After inspecting the deflection board, most everything on there looked to be in decent order so I decided to tear into the HV cage and board as I knew there would probably be some problems in there.

Some major problems to be found once I took the cage off. First of all the cap at 905 was completely blown apart with all of the innards scattered about the inside of the HV cage. Several of the resistors were fried as well. After giving it a look over I went ahead and desoldered the flyback to get it out of the way. It came out without any drama just fine. As far as replacing things, I thought I might as well start with the cap at 905 which is an inline capacitor. Looking through my rebuild kit I find the matching cap only to find that it isn't an inline cap. Am I screwed here or can I still use the regular style cap?

Also, being fairly new to all of this, I am not sure how to differentiate the transistors to figure out which one is which. I can't make out the text on each one. How do you guys go about this?

Another issue I was having is that I got out the new flyback and tried to do a test fit on the board and the pins didn't exactly line up with the holes. Is it ok to bend the pins on there a little bit to get it to fit? Otherwise it isn't going to work.

Pictures of the HV board

2dtoyfs.jpg

9a2tl0.jpg

33cp3y9.jpg

smbxo9.jpg

15ygqza.jpg
 
And when I said transistors above, I mean diodes. (brain fade) I can't read the numbers on the tiny diodes so I don't know what goes where.
 
I am venturing into my first major monitor rebuild/repair with a WG6100 out of a Space Duel I picked up a while back. I ordered a new flyback and deluxe rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. So it all arrived today, I promptly pulled the monitor out of the cabinet and set to looking around at things. After inspecting the deflection board, most everything on there looked to be in decent order so I decided to tear into the HV cage and board as I knew there would probably be some problems in there.
Lots of stuff can be wrong without looking like it. Don't be surprised if you fire it up and it doesn't work.

Some major problems to be found once I took the cage off. First of all the cap at 905 was completely blown apart with all of the innards scattered about the inside of the HV cage. Several of the resistors were fried as well. After giving it a look over I went ahead and desoldered the flyback to get it out of the way. It came out without any drama just fine. As far as replacing things, I thought I might as well start with the cap at 905 which is an inline capacitor. Looking through my rebuild kit I find the matching cap only to find that it isn't an inline cap. Am I screwed here or can I still use the regular style cap?
The terms are axial and radial. The caps work the same no matter what lead style you use, but it's unusual for a kit to come with the wrong type except in extraordinary circumstances — like axial caps are no longer manufactured in the original value.

Generally you should avoid replacing one style with the other, because it's easier for it to catch on stuff when you move the board around, or twist around and short the leads together, or to another component. But they do work the same, and it's less likely to catch on something inside that cage.

Another issue I was having is that I got out the new flyback and tried to do a test fit on the board and the pins didn't exactly line up with the holes. Is it ok to bend the pins on there a little bit to get it to fit? Otherwise it isn't going to work.
Yes, this is fine. It's standard procedure when replacing flybacks, I don't think I've done one yet that slotted straight in.[/QUOTE]

And when I said transistors above, I mean diodes. (brain fade) I can't read the numbers on the tiny diodes so I don't know what goes where.
Use a bright flashlight and a magnifying glass.
 
Thanks for the responses, that is what I was looking for. I was planning on doing the required stuff on the deflection board no matter what, I just meant that the HV cage looked like it needed more attention to begin with so that is where I started.
 
Ok, I have everything in the kit for the HV section replaced except for the flyback which I am going to do here in a minute. However while I was going over the board, R904 appears to be blown as well. This resistor isn't included in the rebuild kit. Am I right that it is a 470ohm 1/2w resistor? Should I even try Radio Shack for such a thing?
 
Scratch that on the R904, I tested it again with the multimeter and it is showing the proper resistance, I guess I had my meter set wrong the first time I did it. It still looks kind of burned up thought. That could be residue from some of the others around it that had exploded. It also looks like R920 is blown as well which just says 1.5k on the schematic. I have tested it several times now on the MM and it is dead, so that looks to be the only one on the HV board.
 
Last edited:
Ok, I got everything done on the boards and I didn't do the frame transistors yet as they are a huge PIA and I wanted to see if what I did have any effect.

So, everything plugged in, held my breath and flipped it on. Immediately the spot killer starts pulsing. There is some flickering of red green and blue vectors on the screen and after about 10 seconds the pulsing stops and the spot killer stays on permanently.

The first thing I do is check my B+. It was about 125v. I proceed to turn up the voltage and I finally get it to 179.8v but the pot won't turn any further........ That doesn't sound right to me so I shut everything off and thought I would ask here what I should do next. Would a bad frame transistor be the cause? I also adjusted the 'screen' knob on the flyback to see if that would change anything but it doesn't.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
 
I set the monitor back in the cab tonight before going to bed as I didn't want it sitting around in my office with a 4 year old wandering about in the morning. After I did this I thought I would turn it on again just to make sure I still had the same problem. Weird thing is the spot killer light is on now, but it never seems to kick in now like it was, the beams just keep going on the screen. So I quickly shut it off as I don't want to burn the phosphors up and create a hole. I did it one more time and took a (crappy) video to show what the screen is doing.

Any ideas?

 
Highly doubt its a pcb prob. As that was my pcb and worked great for months upon months and went straight from my space duel to his. Not saying my pcbs are bulletproof, but lets dig into this more.

You need to get that Monitor fully rebuilt and dialed in.

Then re verify correct voltages. Then mate the board to the monitor (adj pots) as necessary.

If its the pcb after all that and the boards advice send it back to me and I will refund you.
 
Does the game go into test mode or play blind?

Turn your brightness down before you burn a hole in the center of the tube.
 
Also, frame transistors aren't that hard to do. Just make sure you do one at a time so you don't get them mixed up. Honestly I don't see these go bad that often, but it can't hurt to swap them as long as you don't mix them up.
 
I do not have another working board. The game plays blind just fine. I can coin up and it play through the full game sounds and all.
 
Ok well, I need to figure out why the spot killer light is n but the spot killer not working. I am also not getting the all out flickering of vectors across the screen now like I was. It now is just the guns firing into the center of the screen.
 
I don't know if this helps or not, but I decided one more time to fire it up and try coining up before the spot killer kicked in, or at least tried to. I was able to see the ships flickering in and out and see them move as I pushed the controls, but it was in a garbled kind of way. Then it would eventually just go to the guns firing into the center and I turned it off.

Any ideas?
 
I don't know if this helps or not, but I decided one more time to fire it up and try coining up before the spot killer kicked in, or at least tried to. I was able to see the ships flickering in and out and see them move as I pushed the controls, but it was in a garbled kind of way. Then it would eventually just go to the guns firing into the center and I turned it off.

Any ideas?

Reflow the solder on all header pins on the deflection board. Those things always have cold solder joints. You should put in one of the low voltage mods on the deflection board as well (LV2000 or LV6100) to help keep it running.
 
Back
Top Bottom