My first monitor rejuvenation...Wow...

Tube Rejuvination

Hi All,

I have been using a rejuvinator for way to many years. I guess the best way to describe how the rejuvinator restores the guns is by comparing it to the burner tubes on your weber grill.
As crud builds up on the burner tubes there is less transfer of heat to the cooking grate. So by cranking the Temp up on the grill and letting it sit for a bit you burn off the crud.

I was was taught to lightly tap the neck of the tube with a PLASTIC Alignment tool to knock the burnt off particals while using the cleaning position on the Rejuvinator. Dose anyone else do this?

Some other things to do while going threw the monitor.

Un plug the game.

Get a Mirror so you can see what you are doing to the game if you leave the monitor in the game.

1: Cap the monitor
Discharge the Monitor Even for a Rejuvination.

2: Check the pins on the neck of the tube. I have found were there have been slightly tarnished and cause a poor transfer of signal for one of the colors. I use a small strip of 000 sand paper. never touching the pins rolling just the strip of sand paper. Tubes still hold a slight charge.

3: Reflow the solder on the Hot spots on the board with silver solder. Silver solder has a higher melting point.

4: If you clean a tube you will have to balance.

5: The screen, and the neck board adjustments will probable need to be readjusted.
In the front of the Wells Gardner manuals theres a good explanation.
I have gotten to the point were I eye balance the drivers and black level pots.

Allways use Plastic alignment tools. Some have a very small piece of metal that is fine. I also picked up a 18 inch alignment tool so I could reach down into the chasie and adjust the Horizontal width pot. with out having to get my large hands involved with all the points of "pain" on the monitor board.

Priore to turning the monitor on. I verifiy that I can easily turn the Pots on the neck board.
Depending on the level of dirt on the monitor I pre spray the pots with Electronic cleaner and let them dry a bit. I move the pots slightly left to right. This helps clean the pots since they have been sitting in one position for sometime with dirt on eaith side of the swip.

Somethings to remeber.

If the One color is stronger than the other colors. Green, Red or Blue. Then the other 2 colors could be weak. Levels turned down.

Example:
Red is over driving the screen after you have capped and Juved. This could mean that the Blue and Green are set to low allowing the Red to dominate. Red was at the proper level the whole time.

Use the single color test screen in your games test mode to balance out the colors intensity.
Also check the White screen to see what color is either over powering the screen or the others are still set to low.

Look at the black area in the color bar Pattern screen to detrmine what color(s) are either set to high or low for your Black level color adjustment pots on the neck board.

A rejuvinator wil not effect the heater coil or the Focus. A cap kit will to a point because you are most likely to raise voltages to what they should be and raise the High voltage(Horizontal circuit). Might be a K or 2 but it dose make a difference, thus inturn improve the performance of the Tube. Cleaning the pins and resoldering the neck board solder points will help.

Green is the dominate color Followed By Red then Blue. The Blue color makes up the smallest percentage of the overalll picture. Blue will allways look soft compared to Green and Red.

Same holds true when having to do a convergance on the tube using the magnetic rings on the neck. The Green hatch pattern is the point of reference for the other 2 colors to lay on top of and make the white lines.

After Capping and Rejuvinating the Tube. Run a Degausser Coil over the tube when the game is First turned on, Prior to doing any adjustments. This will save you going off in the wrong direction when you start to do your adjustments.

After I am done I Deguase again.

And yes, rejuvinating a tube will shorten its life. But at this point who cares. It needed to be done and the monitor needed to be replaced anyway. So you saved your self some bucks and got another X amount of years out of the game.

RJ
 
Life

Hard to say. It would also depend on how much the monitor was left on. For home use you probably added a few years on. For comercal use. tough call. Cheaper than having to put a new monitor in and definitly cheaper than installing a LCD. Especialy for the large tubes 25" and 27" In some cases it buys you enough time to save up some bucks to buy a differnt monitor other times the monitor lasts a few days of average play and you realize that the tube will need to be repalced.

RJ
 
So I guess either way you look at it it's a shot in the dark. I guess if you got 5 or more years out of it then the LCD prices may have dropped to a more reasonable level so it might be worth it just for that.
 
B&K

Nice Price on the rejuvinator. I have the same one. Pull it out of the case and reflow the solder joints on the circuit board. I have 2 of these and they both had colder solder joints, from being bounced around.

RJ
 
Nice Price on the rejuvinator. I have the same one. Pull it out of the case and reflow the solder joints on the circuit board. I have 2 of these and they both had colder solder joints, from being bounced around.

RJ

Will do.

Thanks for the tip.

(Now all I have to do is find someone who is good at making adaptors).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York
 
The one used in the OP of this thread was also a 467. I'll have to reflow the circut board solder also just for good measure. It seems to work fine but I'm sure it can't hurt.
 
Will do.

Thanks for the tip.

(Now all I have to do is find someone who is good at making adaptors).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York

The one you bought comes with 2 CR23 adaptors (from the description). Most all classics have monitors that use this adaptor. You can sell one and recoup half your investment.
 
I see a lot of people using the 467 here is this a particular good model of Rejuvenator? Any other models good to get or brands other than B&K or is the B&K like top of the line in this department?
 
I see a lot of people using the 467 here is this a particular good model of Rejuvenator? Any other models good to get or brands other than B&K or is the B&K like top of the line in this department?
Sencore is another brand, but I don't know much at all about them. I have a B&K 470 myself and it's a nice piece of equipment to own. The B&K 490 is very similar to the 467 if I remember correctly. Both of them have some extra features I wish my 470 had.
 
B&K

The auto feature looks nice but for cleaning ,ejuvinating and being able to fix a short. Your pretty well set. I have never used a Sencore rejuvinator. I like alot of there other test equipment. Well made, easey to use. I have one of there Transistor checkers.

How dose it go?

CR7 for the Dart board Monitors and projection tv tubes
CR23 Most Monitors 19" 25" and 27" The most commen used
CR24 Hantrex style monitors
CR25 some 19's
CR31 Some 19" and 13" hard to find adapter.

You might be able to go into one of the older TV shop and see if they still have any neck boards or unclamed TV's they want to throw out. Re use some of the older style adapters in the kit and make up a molex connector setup using older neck boards.
Walk in with a print out of the B&K cross reference tube chart. At this point in the tv tube world there are less and less tubes they are repairing and less and less people coming back
into pick up there older sets. $300 repair bill for my curtis mathes or $232 for a new 32" LCD.

I think they still sell the universal adapter with the clip leads. Bit of a pain to use.

RJ
 
Another Double Dragon

Oops I didn't take pics of my own monitor before I worked on it.

I got my own DD cab thats exactly like Esseyo's.

I was so intent on getting it just right that I just went ahead and tested the tube first. After adjusting it it still was dim on the colors so I swapped in a different rebuilt chassis showing that it was in fact in need of caps also.

I went ahead and capped the original chassis and put it back in tonight. I even washed the board down with some alchohol I had loaded onto a spray bottle.

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I actually used a SF2 board for it's color bars. It makes a good test patern generator to tune colors etc. Once I got the DD board back in I did final tune and here's the results.
It's really nice when you get your own monitor working really nice and crisp looking. After a while playing around with getting the right controls into the original DD CP and tuning the monitor, I'm really pumped on this game.
 

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Let me ask a stupid question: why rejuvenating a tube shorten its life?

I mean: if the applied voltage only removes/burn the crap and oxides grown on the guns filaments, what exactly is negatively affected by the threatment?
 
tube life

Here is a good example.
Your gas grill is full of crud on the burners. You cranck up the heat and let it sit for awhile until the crud is burned off. The rejuvinator dose the same thing as you turning up the heat on your burners. This inturn will weaken the metal elimantes for the guns. Yes you gain strenght in your guns because they are not blocked by crude. But in turn you have put a hurt on them to gain this increase in level. Bottom line. it's better than no tube at all and having then to replace the tube. For the amount of time the average collector plays there games it will last you several more years as you go on your quest for a replacement monitor.

RJ
 
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