My first monitor rejuvenation...Wow...

I did 5 CRTs today with my BK467. They all used the CR23 adapter and 6.3V for the heater. One CRT appeared dead, but came back to life after running a Restore on all 3 guns!

John
 
I just picked up a Sencore Super Mack off of ebay. Got it late this last week and have not had time to check it out. I'm hoping to test it out soon and just test some tubes. Congrats on the results of the full monitor servicing. :D
 
Last night I shot another K7000 19" with the rejuv and got all guns to read in the green. I knew all the colors were weak cause it was dim and needed turning up to get it to balence out. The tube had some vert shooter burn in it but it's a game out on route.

So after rejuv the monitor was so red that I couldn't read anything. I thought I had broken something. I had only ran the rejuv on it and then balenced.

After some neck board color adjusting, it has all strong colors. I have to work on it a little more as it looks a but saturated now to me. Good thing that the the monitor works fine now. There's a leak that shows but we'll see if the tube will go out long term. I had picked this one up in the Fresno fire sale for just $30 and capped it. Now it works pretty good in a SF2.

Although I was showing Eseyo1 how the rejuv works and showing him how I do my solder projects we have to give a big thanks to Oryk Z. Your CR31 instructions helped me make the BK CR31 neck board adaptor. It works great now
 
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yeah alot of people forget that if the gun was krap the gain and biases are way way up and once you have a good working gun again, then you gotta turn that krap down..


keep fiddling, eventually youll get em just right
 
Night and day! That's one of the best I have seen.

I have a rejuv, I need to learn how to use it.
 
Was it heater leakage or G1 leakage?

Andrew

Last night I shot a K7000 19" with the rejuv and got all guns to read in the green. I knew all the colors were weak cause it was dim and needed turning up to get it to balence out. The tube had some vert shooter burn in it but it's a game out on route.

So after rejuv the monitor was so red that I couldn't read anything. I thought I had broken something. I had only ran the rejuv on it and then balenced.

After some neck board color adjusting, it has all strong colors. I have to work on it a little more as it looks a but saturated now to me. Good thing that the the monitor works fine now. There's a leak that shows but we'll see if the tube will go out long term. I had picked this one up in the Fresno fire sale for just $30 and capped it. Now it works pretty good in a SF2.

Although I was showing Eseyo1 how the rejuv works and showing him how I do my solder projects we have to give a big thanks to Oryk Z. Your CR31 instructions helped me make the BK CR31 neck board adaptor. It works great now
 
It was the heater light and it was pretty light.
ummmm how bad is that? my understanding is that leakage is not fixable.
 
How did you take those photos? They look really good. Mine always tend to wash out because of flash or get blurry if none used.

I use a Nikon D60 DSLR. 35mm lens. I use no flash and set it on manual aperture setting. Adjust accordingly and have a steady hand or tripod and you should be good to go.
 
Jesus christ, you guys are lucky. Two monitors out of my 5 cabs would need some tweaking (the green is way too strong on my super chase cab), and I have no idea what to do, or where to find someone who can fix them.

This is voodoo magic to me.
 
ok. pardon my ignorance.

what is a rejuvenation? can it be done with monitor in the cabinet? Or does it need removed?

Anybody know someone in the ohio area that can do this?

I have an afterburner 2 cockpit that I am restoring.
 
ok. pardon my ignorance.

what is a rejuvenation? can it be done with monitor in the cabinet? Or does it need removed?

Anybody know someone in the ohio area that can do this?

I have an afterburner 2 cockpit that I am restoring.

You can do it without removing the monitor. This is what it looks like:

IMG_2349.JPG


In my layman's view...a CRT Analyzer/Restorer can do 3 things:

  • Test the tube without the chassis, so you know if the problem is the chassis or the tube
  • Repair internal shorts (inside the tube)
  • Improve electron emissions, for one or more of the R/G/B electron guns.

This last one is commonly referred to as "Rejuvenation", although it's also possible to just Clean a gun (this is a "gentler" setting than "Rejuvenate").
 
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Jesus christ, you guys are lucky. Two monitors out of my 5 cabs would need some tweaking (the green is way too strong on my super chase cab), and I have no idea what to do, or where to find someone who can fix them.

This is voodoo magic to me.

First find a game that puts out a standard monitor test pattern. Once you have the grid for centering and the color bars, it gets pretty easy.
 
First find a game that puts out a standard monitor test pattern. Once you have the grid for centering and the color bars, it gets pretty easy.

Yeah, but that's the hard part, or at least it can be in the case of Nintendo monitors, especially ones that don't have the color inverter board. Not only do you need a game that generates test patterns, but you need to rig up a way to output to the monitor.

It would be nice if someone made a cheap portable test pattern generator. I don't see why such a device needs to cost over $100.
 
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There are cheap pattern generators... Just hard to find.

A guy in OKC used to make 'em and sell 'em on eBay for $69 plus shipping.

Don't be afraid to use a rejuvenator! The first time you use one you'll wonder if it's working right and what's happening when you see all the bright lights flashing in the neck of the tube. But when finished, the results can be spectacular.

I did a Matsushita in a PP cab and it went from being dark and dim to bright and vibrant. Just beware that your results may vary. A tube might look beautiful but not last long. Just enjoy the time you get out of it.

RJ
 
I did a Matsushita in a PP cab and it went from being dark and dim to bright and vibrant. Just beware that your results may vary. A tube might look beautiful but not last long. Just enjoy the time you get out of it.

RJ
Yeah I had great results on the Matsushita in my Pole Position. Two guns were dead and one nearly dead, but my 470 brought them back. Has a pretty nice picture now.
 
That is correct I have a 4600 tube I got from the Fresno sale that has severe red heater leakage and the pic looks great but every so often the screen will flash red for a sec or so kinda annoying if it's light I wouldn't worry about it

Andrew

It was the heater light and it was pretty light.
ummmm how bad is that? my understanding is that leakage is not fixable.
 
Andrew - Opps I meant the light was pretty bright.
I was able to get it looking pretty good but needs another 5% tuning to be perfect to my eyes. It's between the red and the contrast now that I saw it more. It's an operated machine so I don't care TOOO much as I also have another good spare tube with some severe burn on it. I've been working on that monitor chassis but it's dead and I'm trying trouble shoot it.
 
Am I correct in assuming that a monitor that has had it's tube previously replaced with that from an old TV can be rejuvenated witht he same adaptor, and that the adaptors are "chassis dependent"?

And is it easy to get needed adaptors for a rejuventor such as the B & K?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Am I correct in assuming that a monitor that has had it's tube previously replaced with that from an old TV can be rejuvenated witht he same adaptor, and that the adaptors are "chassis dependent"?

And is it easy to get needed adaptors for a rejuventor such as the B & K?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.


The tube neck configuration must be matched for a swap to be done easily. Every swap I know of was performed with matching necks and this would mean that a rejuvenator would use the same adaptor for both the original tube and th replacement. So to answer your question, the adaptors are not chassis dependent - the adaptors and chassis are neck dependent.

I build and sell many adaptors. The CR23 is the most common and I have those in stock. CR30, CR31, CR25, and CR24 neck sockets are harder to come by but I sell them as well when I find the pieces.
 
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