my first 60 in 1. No Sound, Pulling my hair out!!

MC35

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Ok when I first wired everything up the sound worked. then it went out. I rechecked all my wiring, ohmed the speaker, its reading 4.4 ohms. i have adjusted the 5+ volt line from 5.0 to 5.45 and just about everything in between. I thought, maybe i had a bad board. got the new board in today and same issue. i put the old board back in and it worked until i shut it off now the sound wont come back on. I wiggled the connectors while ohming them out and everything seems fine. I noticed that when you first power up, 1 of the LED's flickers and the speaker pops, but then that led never comes back on.
Am I missing something? Please help!!
 
The only pot on the board is labeled VR1, which I suspect is a power pot. I suspect something else is going on, because I left it running for a little while and the volume was working, not it isn't again. I'm thinking of target practice for my AR with this thing. Any other suggestions, I am all ears.
 
the 60-1 had on screen sound adjustment and also that pot should be coarse volume adjustment.

However... check your +12 first. THe sound runs off of +12 on these boards, IIRC. So if you hav en issue with the +12, i could definitely see you having an issue.

IS this all a new install with a new harness or are you sticking thr board into a old jamma cab?
 
Try another speaker. Verify wires and connectors are tight. Plug another jamma board in and see what happens. or if you have another jamma setup, plug the 60 in 1 into that and test.
 
Try another speaker. Verify wires and connectors are tight. Plug another jamma board in and see what happens. or if you have another jamma setup, plug the 60 in 1 into that and test.

I'm more of a pin guy and don't have any other Jamma's around. I think the 12 volt line on the SMPS is what was causing the problem, as the sound is working now, I just don't trust it because I haven't done any thing to affect it.

If it still seems flaky I will be replacing the power supply. Everything was brand new including the power supply. I am so frustrated by this, I now have the original board back in and it is working fine for now.

Thanks for the help.

MC
 
This thing is possessed. I haven't done anything to make it work, but it seems as though if I power it up without the 12 volts connected, let it boot, then connect the 12 volts, it will work, but it doesn't work when it powers up with the 12 volts connected. I'm really scratching my head here.
 
O.K. So the only way I can get the sound to work is to connect the 12 volts after the board has gone through the boot sequence. I am considering wiring up a time delay relay that wouldn't switch on the 12 volts until after the game boots up. I am running out of ideas. What should the 12 volt line read?
Has anyone ever seen this problem before. I could really use the help.
Thanks
 
you are narrowing it down on your own. have another power supply? if you have an unused pc power supply laying around, you could use that. it supplies 5v+(red) and 12v(yellow wire).
common/ground is black wire

power supplies DO often have intermittant problems. you may be right. what is the power supply you are using rated at? did you measure the 12v feed? 12v feed should be no more or less than 10% of 12. the 5v can NOT exceed 5.5volts.
 
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you are narrowing it down on your own. have another power supply? if you have an unused pc power supply laying around, you could use that. it supplies 5v+(red) and 12v(yellow wire).
common/ground is black wire

power supplies DO often have intermittant problems. you may be right. what is the power supply you are using rated at? did you measure the 12v feed? 12v feed should be no more or less than 10% of 12. the 5v can NOT exceed 5.5volts.

I have the 12 volts set to 12.1 and the 5 is at 4.98. I have been through the full spectrum and no changes. It just seems odd that both the 5 and 12 are measuring what they should doesn't work unless I turn the 12 volts on after it has booted.
 
you are narrowing it down on your own. have another power supply? if you have an unused pc power supply laying around, you could use that. it supplies 5v+(red) and 12v(yellow wire).
common/ground is black wire

+1, Make sure your wiring is all square before you power it and melt your wires (what happened to my first harness). It might be interesting to see if you have the same problem then.
 
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your voltages are good, at least when you are checking them. what i am wondering is if your power supply is dipping when you first turn it on. in other words, maybe the board is pulling too much at startup than the power supply can keep up with, and the 12 volt is dropping. think of it like when you start your car up. a lot of power is pulled from the starter, causing a lower voltage state until the car turns over and starts running.

you could really get somewhere with this if you could test with another power supply...
 
your voltages are good, at least when you are checking them. what i am wondering is if your power supply is dipping when you first turn it on. in other words, maybe the board is pulling too much at startup than the power supply can keep up with, and the 12 volt is dropping. think of it like when you start your car up. a lot of power is pulled from the starter, causing a lower voltage state until the car turns over and starts running.

you could really get somewhere with this if you could test with another power supply...

I bet the +12 just doesn't have the current and you might get away with a cap at the output of the +12 line. If you have caps avaiable if not a new power supply.
 
Throw a 5 watt sandstone resistor on the +5 volt line. you need to bring up your 12 volts.
Benchmark games does this with their earlier games.....
 
Try another speaker. Verify wires and connectors are tight. Plug another jamma board in and see what happens. or if you have another jamma setup, plug the 60 in 1 into that and test.

Try several different speakers. I had a 60-in-1 that wouldn't work on two different
speakers even though the speakers "tested" good and even popped when I touched
voltage across the terminals.

Also, there are 2 470uf caps right below the amplifier IC that
tend to go bad often. This will kill your sound also.

JD
 
grnd

i have built 40 of these
i have had the same issue
on mine that had this problem it is related to the grnd and the frame grnd not being the same in the eyes of the new and different internal parts
this creates a potential power supply voltage difference betwen frame gnd and logic gnd, and then power supply drain causing odd things like game reset, sound loss, ect.
the best solution i have come to is get rid of frame grnd thoughout the machine and just use ac hot and line return for everything that has 120vac (no gnd) if you are using a old monitor you can experiment wheather it is ok to leave the gnd strap on, or not, but for sure i have found voltage difference between lcd frame gnd , lcd logic grnd, and game pcb grnd, and pcb frame ground, also power supply, same thing
 
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i have built 40 of these
i have had the same issue
on mine that had this problem it is related to the grnd and the frame grnd not being the same in the eyes of the new and different internal parts
this creates a potential power supply voltage difference betwen frame gnd and logic gnd, and then power supply drain causing odd things like game reset, sound loss, ect.
the best solution i have come to is get rid of frame grnd thoughout the machine and just use ac hot and line return for everything that has 120vac (no gnd) if you are using a old monitor you can experiment wheather it is ok to leave the gnd strap on, or not, but for sure i have found voltage difference between lcd frame gnd and game logic grnd, and power supply, same thing
and do not have a frame gnd going to logic pcb either

With the problems I'm seeing this is one possible solution. I think the Caps are fine as mentioned earlier. I will remove the frame ground later tonight, and then trying a computer power supply. The only other thing that may make sense is the current in the 12 volt supply. If a PC power supply fixes it I will be ordering a new power supply.
Thanks for all the good ideas.
 
Thanks to member "grnd" removing the green frame ground from the power supply fixed the problem. Thanks to all who gave sugggestions to get this fixed. My mind is blown by that fix.
MC
 
Sorry I saw this late, I've had the same problems and yes it's ground related. It'll also do it if you have anything grounded and the cp/coindoor, etc. gets any kind of static charge when you touch it. The sound will drop out. The old boards didn't do it, just the new design.
 
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