OP
OP
I have an extra one. I'll get you the dimensions and post it here.
Got it:
22 3/8" x 5 7/8"
Thanks!
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My Donkey Kong
- Thread starter NERDtendo
- Start date
I have an extra one. I'll get you the dimensions and post it here.
Got it:
22 3/8" x 5 7/8"
Thanks!
D_Harris
Well-known member
Thanks.
Now all I need to get are the Ms. Pac-man marquee dimensions and I can order them both.
@#$%! I wish I had known that you ordered the wrong T-Molding. I could have bought that from you when I ordered the other stuff.
Is your Donkey Kong coin door spray painted?
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
OP
OP
No. It is the original finish. I still need to clean it up. That's why it looks a little splotchy.
jimkirk
Well-known member
Why don't you just get a repro marquee or a used one off Ebay?
The repro's are silkscreened like the originals.
I have found some nice used ones on Ebay also.
Tighe
Well-known member
They really came out so much better with this extra strength Retr0bright I made. I wish I took before photos, the difference is like night and day!
D_Harris
Well-known member
Because I need a new looking marquee with original looking artwork and isn't over priced.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
jimkirk
Well-known member
And you are going to use an inkjet one???
Cheaper but not by much and still not original.
D_Harris
Well-known member
And you are going to use an inkjet one???
Cheaper but not by much and still not original.
Where did I say inkjet?
I'm actually in the process of deciding between original marquee artwork and custom artwork. But if I go with original artwork, I'd want it to be the same quality as that of the original marquees.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
jimkirk
Well-known member
What else is there besides silk screen?
Anything else is crap compared to screening.
That is the only way to get the same quality.
If you have it printed how much are you really going to save?
Repro's are exact matches and only $45.
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D_Harris
Well-known member
I still have no idea where you are going with this or what I said that you are addressing.
If I get a marquee with the same artwork as the original, then I'd like it to look the same as the original, and screen printing is the most accurate way to do that.
But if I decide on a custom marquee that will have a lot of colors or shading graduations, screen printing would not be adequate. (But this is all getting off the DK track).
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
OP
OP
They really came out so much better with this extra strength Retr0bright I made. I wish I took before photos, the difference is like night and day!
Those look awesome. Can't wait till they get here.
jimkirk
Well-known member
Well you said "custom" art work and that means printed since silk screen is way too expensive for 1 piece.
And a marquee with the same art work would be either original or repro.
I couldn't see using anything printed when accurate repro's are available for a reasonable price.
And a marquee with the same art work would be either original or repro.
I couldn't see using anything printed when accurate repro's are available for a reasonable price.
D_Harris
Well-known member
Ok. You keep saying "printed". Whatever method is used it will be "printed".
And it is correct that silk screening a one off would be too expensive for the average Joe.
But I still never said that I would not be getting a silk screen marquee from one of the well known reproducers around here. I did say that if I go custom (which I think I will do with one of the two Ms. Pac-man marquees I need) it wouldn't be silk screened.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
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jimkirk
Well-known member
Well by these posts one would think you were going to have one printed.
That is why I mentioned getting a repro.
Most here consider anything other than screening to be printed.
That means using ink jet,Laser or Solvent ink jet and only use if no repro's are available.
Good luck with your project anyway.
D_Harris
Well-known member
Again. Regardless of what I choose it will be printed. (Screen printed or inkjet).
I'm thinking screen printed for the original DK marquee artwork and inkjet for the custom marquee artwork I need.
NERDtendo. How fine was the sand paper you used on your CPO?
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Tighe
Well-known member
BTW there were two blue buttons with burns all the way through the plastic which I polished them as best as possible. They still look better than they were.
joeycuda
Well-known member
If the game means that much, get a repro or a decent used one. Not worth debating. I wish I could get back the time I spent reading this, but it makes me think of:
Tighe
Well-known member
If the game means that much, get a repro or a decent used one. Not worth debating. I wish I could get back the time I spent reading this, but it makes me think of:
Seriously that did go on a little too long.
OP
OP
My Donkey Kong has been frustrating me lately so I decided to do something about it. The joystick was really stiff and it made gameplay almost unbearable. I figured if I was ging to clean up the joystick some more then I might as well take care of the CPO like I had been planning to do. I put on the King of Kong DVD and started working. This is where I had last left it...
I had put on nice, restored buttons (thanks again Tighe!), but the instruction sticker under the CPO was a terrible paper print out and there were some cig burns on the CPO that wouldn't hurt to be removed. I bought some instruction underlays from OldTymeToys. I decided to remove the clear plastic disc from the joystick. It really restricts the balltop's movement and it was wearing into my CPO a bit. After comparing the repro disc from MikesArcade to an original clear disc I could see that the new ones are a bit thicker and the center hole is very slightly smaller. I don't know if this would have affected the joystick's function at all, but I decided to leave it off none the less. When I first built the control panel for this game I had cleaned the joystick base like crazy but I didn't have anything to lubricate the bearin with so I knew that when the work was completed that I would notice a big change in gameplay. After 2 1/2 hours cleaning, sanding, and polishing I finally got everything back together and back on the machine. I fred up the game and would you figure after a couple of games my averae score was over double what it had been. In fact, I had to try to reteach myself to play as I was acustomed to using a little muscle with the joystick and now it is smooth as butter. Here are the updated pics of the control panel...
I had put on nice, restored buttons (thanks again Tighe!), but the instruction sticker under the CPO was a terrible paper print out and there were some cig burns on the CPO that wouldn't hurt to be removed. I bought some instruction underlays from OldTymeToys. I decided to remove the clear plastic disc from the joystick. It really restricts the balltop's movement and it was wearing into my CPO a bit. After comparing the repro disc from MikesArcade to an original clear disc I could see that the new ones are a bit thicker and the center hole is very slightly smaller. I don't know if this would have affected the joystick's function at all, but I decided to leave it off none the less. When I first built the control panel for this game I had cleaned the joystick base like crazy but I didn't have anything to lubricate the bearin with so I knew that when the work was completed that I would notice a big change in gameplay. After 2 1/2 hours cleaning, sanding, and polishing I finally got everything back together and back on the machine. I fred up the game and would you figure after a couple of games my averae score was over double what it had been. In fact, I had to try to reteach myself to play as I was acustomed to using a little muscle with the joystick and now it is smooth as butter. Here are the updated pics of the control panel...
Just remember, if the stiffness lasts for more than 4 hours, you should call a physician.
J/K, nice job on the panel. VERY NICE work.
