Tighe
Well-known member
Several threads later and I have this little cutie up and running and in the line up. I think I need to rearrange though it is dwarfed right now, but it was where I could easily fit it.
Things I fixed:
Bad 4 Board Set
Pretty sure the problem was with the CLK board, I could see smoke stains on the board. I was able to snipe up another 4 board set for SUPER cheap on Ebay so I opted to do that.
Bad Audio
The large cap on the audio amp board on the monitor had exploded, so I installed Bob Robert's deluxe cap kit which included 2 transistors. That didn't fix the problem completely, and I was about to test every resistor on the board when buffett told me he had the same sound distortions and that Resistor 383 was bad on his board. Same on mine, but it turns out that R383 is a fusable resistor which I really didn't feel like placing an order with mouser for 1 component, so replaced the it with a 39O resistor and put an inline fuse holder with 1 .5A 250V fuse on the wire BK that runs from the monitor chassis to the audio amp. This is the functional equivalent to a fuseable resistor.
Video
Multiple issues here:
So I was going to install the rest of the cap kit in the chassis, but when I was reinstalling the audio amp I found that the degauss wire was disconected. Reconnecting it seemed to fix the problem with the screen going dark after 10-15 minutes.
Then I pulled the monitor out and found that the RGB cable to the monitor has intermittent contact. At first I thought it was the header pins on the chassis, but it is the cable. That fixed the green and blue turning off.
While I had it out I proceeded to adjust the settings on the monitor. It is almost impossible to do when it is in. Turns out that the screen was turned WAY up, so I turned it down and was able to adjust RGB drive and focus and got it looking great. So I had decided to hold off on installing the rest of the cap kit.
Cabinet
I cleaned the cabinet up, there was tape residue all over it, and some stinky liquid under the CPO. I painted the back of the CPO with triple thick, polished the buttons and joystick knob.
I cleaned and lubracated the joystick and replaced the 8 way restrictor plate with a 4 way.
I also replaced the scratched to hell monitor plexi with glass. The bezel was assembled incorrectly too.
The cabinet is still missing a back door, which I will make a new one soon.
The "marquee" sticker on the front is quite faded and tore on the edges, I think I will replace that, just need someone to print one up for me.
Edgar checking it out:
Monitor looking great (any blur is my phone's fault)
You can see that I used a microfiber cloth to clean the glass, need to get some paper towels!
I still need to take some photos with the light on, but you can see the before here:
Things I fixed:
Bad 4 Board Set
Pretty sure the problem was with the CLK board, I could see smoke stains on the board. I was able to snipe up another 4 board set for SUPER cheap on Ebay so I opted to do that.
Bad Audio
The large cap on the audio amp board on the monitor had exploded, so I installed Bob Robert's deluxe cap kit which included 2 transistors. That didn't fix the problem completely, and I was about to test every resistor on the board when buffett told me he had the same sound distortions and that Resistor 383 was bad on his board. Same on mine, but it turns out that R383 is a fusable resistor which I really didn't feel like placing an order with mouser for 1 component, so replaced the it with a 39O resistor and put an inline fuse holder with 1 .5A 250V fuse on the wire BK that runs from the monitor chassis to the audio amp. This is the functional equivalent to a fuseable resistor.
Video
Multiple issues here:
- Video would go dark after 10-15 minutes.
- Blue was dark and everything had a blue tint.
- Blue and green would turn off.
So I was going to install the rest of the cap kit in the chassis, but when I was reinstalling the audio amp I found that the degauss wire was disconected. Reconnecting it seemed to fix the problem with the screen going dark after 10-15 minutes.
Then I pulled the monitor out and found that the RGB cable to the monitor has intermittent contact. At first I thought it was the header pins on the chassis, but it is the cable. That fixed the green and blue turning off.
While I had it out I proceeded to adjust the settings on the monitor. It is almost impossible to do when it is in. Turns out that the screen was turned WAY up, so I turned it down and was able to adjust RGB drive and focus and got it looking great. So I had decided to hold off on installing the rest of the cap kit.
Cabinet
I cleaned the cabinet up, there was tape residue all over it, and some stinky liquid under the CPO. I painted the back of the CPO with triple thick, polished the buttons and joystick knob.
I cleaned and lubracated the joystick and replaced the 8 way restrictor plate with a 4 way.
I also replaced the scratched to hell monitor plexi with glass. The bezel was assembled incorrectly too.
The cabinet is still missing a back door, which I will make a new one soon.
The "marquee" sticker on the front is quite faded and tore on the edges, I think I will replace that, just need someone to print one up for me.
Edgar checking it out:
Monitor looking great (any blur is my phone's fault)
You can see that I used a microfiber cloth to clean the glass, need to get some paper towels!
I still need to take some photos with the light on, but you can see the before here:



