my 50.00 720 off craigslist

I can't tell from the pic but I am guessing this is just like all of the other chassis's with the fuse soldered on. Pop that sucker out and solder in a fuse holder, rebuild the chassis while you are at it and be done with it. Excellent pick up by the way!
 
I can't tell from the pic but I am guessing this is just like all of the other chassis's with the fuse soldered on. Pop that sucker out and solder in a fuse holder, rebuild the chassis while you are at it and be done with it. Excellent pick up by the way!
If there isn't room for the fuse holder on the chassis, just mount it on the chassis frame and run the wires. Definitely do not jump past the fuse as previously stated. It is there for a reason. You may want to pull the pins on that power connector that is going onto the game board and clean them. The reason they probably had the voltage cranked on the power supply was because the connector was not making a connection. Hence, cranking up the voltage on the ps to compensate. Nice score btw. I got one a while back for $150 with no monitor. I need to get back to working on it!
 
If it makes you feel any better I came across a K4900 recently with a blown fuse similar to what you have and upon replacement it fired right up.

...now that said, the chassis WAS just dangling on the frame and likely shorted to the frame... but...
 
Not good advice, even if just for a second.

-Tim

Agreed - that's STOOPID advice. Fuses are there for, and blow for a reason. Bridging the connection will undoubtedly create more issues to repair.

Find the reasons for the blown fuse before attempting to replace it.
 
If this is a keeper game for you, do yourself a favor and replace all of the .156 connectors and use Trifurcon pins. I can't stand it when manufacturers used standard pins for power and ground...
 
you can try jumping the ends together if you cant be patient and will be kinda risky

Tell me i didn't read this stupid ass piece of advice! Here sir, hold this end of the plug wire while i turn the engine over. It's kinda risky and absolutely dumbfuck stupid but we'll verify if you've got spark.
 
Tell me i didn't read this stupid ass piece of advice! Here sir, hold this end of the plug wire while i turn the engine over. It's kinda risky and absolutely dumbfuck stupid but we'll verify if you've got spark.

Yep, you read it.

I was over at a friends house a few weeks ago and he had a fuse blow on a paragon pin. He said the fuse holder was broken and wasn't getting contact on one side. I told him to use an alligator clip to hold that side together. He misunderstood and just jumped the fuse holder with the clips and didn't tell me. It fried who knows what and popped another fuse in the backbox.

Long story short, never ever ever ever EVER bypass a fuse!!!!!!!!!!
 
I'm sure the monitor experts will correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't a blown f501 fuse on a k4900 chassis mean a bad HOT?
But I would think that if the f501 is bad, that you would get nothing from the monitor? No glow, no noise.
Either way someone should have the monitor flowchart. IMHO the 4900's are usually easy to fix.
 
If you really don't want to deal with it, send it to Chad at arcadecup.com He'll test it and repair it and replace the flyback if needed. Mine had missing transistors on the side, I replaced them, but forgot to screw them down...that's all that was wrong with it!
 
you can try jumping the ends together if you cant be patient and will be kinda risky

will NOT do.. im crazy but not that crazy

Id unsolder the the fuse and solder in a new one for starters.

this is exactly what im going to do.

vintagegamer: He was asking $100 you dirty, dirty cheap ass KLOVer

no he wasnt asking for an offer, i offered him 50.00 for it FIRST, TNT offered 400 store credit, but he didnt want to see it thrown off a roof!!!!

orion3311 Will trade for monitor repairs :) I saw that on CL but being out of room and all..I had to pas.

jeff i thought you were gonna go for it, if was right around the corner from your house in the RENNISANCE industrial park right over the conshohoken bridge

shardian If this is a keeper game for you, do yourself a favor and replace all of the .156 connectors and use Trifurcon pins. I can't stand it when manufacturers used standard pins for power and ground...

already ordered from bob roberts

Jedidentist If you really don't want to deal with it, send it to Chad at arcadecup.com He'll test it and repair it and replace the flyback if needed. Mine had missing transistors on the side, I replaced them, but forgot to screw them down...that's all that was wrong with it!

Thanks for the advice, im gonna try and fix it first, if i cant get it going ill ask jeff for some help...
 
thanks for all the nice comments guys!! I will be totally restoring this thing. Just orderd the large t-molding on the bottom from a guy selling it on ebay for 35.00 shipped... so im starting!!
 
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