My 19v2000 needs help

[RetroHacker]

The Amperex tubes go dim over time because they lose emissions. The heater shouldn't go dim - just the picture. Look closely, the heater should be glowing, you might have to look down into the gun assembly at an angle.

Also, I wasn't aware of the WG monitors ever using the Amperex tubes - I thought that was just the Cinematronics monitors. Is yours an Amperex? Perhaps it was swapped at some point?

Is your monitor even getting high voltage?

-Ian

 

[mbott1701]

My monitor does have the M50-102W tube. There is also a sticker on the chassis that says "19VAP4 or M50-102W" so, maybe the tube was swapped at some point. There is screen burn where the score is displayed, which may indicate that the tube has been used a while, no?

As far as I can tell I have HV. The spot killer isn't lit and the screen gets all staticy when the monitor is on.
I don't have an HV probe at the moment, so I can't check for an exact voltage level at the anode.

 

[Jimjaycee]

Procedure To test continuity of the CRT filament pins 1 & 8.
1) Unplug machine
2) unplug harness to monitor
3) discharge crt using 1m ohm resistor inline between the ground clip and flat screwdriver
4) gently pull off the connector on neck
5) test pins 1 & 8 which are the ones on each side of the raised plastic key on your neck connector if it reads open it is bad.

Looking at my GO5 here, you have the raised plastic key connector where your neck connector slides down onto, going clockwise, starting with pin 1 continue going clockwise pin 5 has been removed for keying the plastic connector to the crt and pin 8 is just before the connector key.

I hope this helps.

 

[Jimjaycee]

The CRT's are interchangeable. They would have switched out the yoke for the correct monitor deflection.

 

[mbott1701]

Update...

Got the new 19VARP4 today and swapped out the tubes...

Fired it up and.....nothing. Same symptoms. Me sad.
My cap kit arrived from Bob yesterday, so I pulled the deflection board and got to work.

First, I reflowed the solder at the connectors as per the suggestions above.
Then I started replacing caps. Here is what was at C500, C501, C502, C503
(what are these? Should the even be there?)

I replaced them with the caps that Bob sent and finished up. Put the deflection board back in, reconnected everything, crossed my fingers, and fired it up again.
The first thing I saw was bright neck glow!!! Then I saw this:

Woo hoo!

As of 30 minutes ago... I was blasting huge space rocks. Next is getting the black light to work...

THANK YOU to everyone that helped!

 

[bungy]

Awesome! And now you have a minty fresh burn free tube too!

 

[Jimjaycee]

Excellent!

 

[cwilkson]

Then I started replacing caps. Here is what was at C500, C501, C502, C503
(what are these? Should the even be there?)

Those are tantalum caps. Similar to (but mostly better than) standard electrolytic caps. They can fail too (usual by shorting out) and might as well be replaced while you're doing the aluminum electrolytics.

 

[dezbaz]

Kind of nullifies the pain of the cost

Excellent results

 

[mbott1701]

Those are tantalum caps. Similar to (but mostly better than) standard electrolytic caps. They can fail too (usual by shorting out) and might as well be replaced while you're doing the aluminum electrolytics.

Thanks for the information! I figured they had to be some kind of capacitor or something similar. I'm just curious is they were put on at the factory or if someone else installed them over the years. The manual calls for the 1uf caps at those locations, so I'm guessing an operator did that at some point.

Kind of nullifies the pain of the cost

Excellent results

Yeah, it does! I just got the black light working too... such a cool effect!

 

[Jimjaycee]

Those caps are factory original. I have them on a few deflection boards.

 

[Jimjaycee]

Nice to see your game up and running!

 

[cwilkson]

Those caps are factory original. I have them on a few deflection boards.

Yep. Mine are (were) 1uF tantalums. Looks like these were 0.47uF. (???) But anyway, they're gone now. Congrats on a nice picture!!

 

[mbott1701]

Yep. Mine are (were) 1uF tantalums. Looks like these were 0.47uF. (???) But anyway, they're gone now. Congrats on a nice picture!!

Thanks!
Yeah, def the wrong rating for those locations on the board. All 4 of the ones I removed has the same rating. Weird.

This game is hard! (but fun to play)

 

[emig5m]

I just picked up a Asteroids Deluxe and having the same issue as the OP (not noticing any neck glow/monitor not working). Could it be as easy as a cap kit that fixes it? A vector needs a resistor inline when discharging? I never touched a vector before. Also, on my monitor it looks like what a wet oil leak would look like:

Can someone chime in on what that gooey oil leak-like looking stuff is around the anode cup? I've never seen anything like that on my raster monitors and never had a vector or even that brand or a color raster yet.

 

[emig5m]

Oh, what fixed the black light? Mine plus the marquee light isn't working. Was the black light just a bulb replacement and where can I buy a replacement?

 

[VertexGuy]

Can someone chime in on what that gooey oil leak-like looking stuff is around the anode cup?

old melted electric grease?

 

[security0001]

Can someone chime in on what that gooey oil leak-like looking stuff is around the anode cup?

old melted electric grease?

yes you are correct. type of dielectric grease with lots of dirt mixed in.