My 19v2000 needs help

bungy said:
Let us know what you find out about the replacement tube (cost, shipping, etc.), I wouldn't mind having a couple of them on hand.
Click to expand...

I sent them an email this morning and will let you know. I see that replacment information was from that FAQ document, which was dated 2002 so, it might be a longshot...

So, do you concur it is likely a bad CRT tube, Bungy?
 
mbott1701 said:
I sent them an email this morning and will let you know. I see that replacment information was from that FAQ document, which was dated 2002 so, it might be a longshot...

So, do you concur it is likely a bad CRT tube, Bungy?
Click to expand...

I've never dealt with a bad tube before, but the explanation makes sense to me. I do have a working spare tube if you want to try it.
 
I wanted to check the voltage at the yoke before I replaced the tube. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to place my multimeter probes to test pins 1 and 8. Should I remove the connection from the tube to test?

Also, the manual I have doesn't have numbering on the yoke for the pins...should I just use the pin# at P500 and trace the wire to the connection at the yoke?

Thanks
 
Why do you think you need a tube? Have you checked the resistance between pins 1 and 8 to see if the filament is burned out?

-Ian
 
I was just going off of what JimJay was saying about how if there is heater voltage and no neck glow the filiment is bad and would likely need a tube replacement.
 
Sometimes it can be hard to see a glowing filament. Similarly, it's possible to measure the voltage at the game's harness connector, but have it never get to the tube because a pin has pushed it's way out of a molex connector somewhere. Sometimes other things can cause a lack of neck glow. I repaired a 6100 for a friend where someone had replaced a 7.5ohm resistor in the filament circuit with a 1.2k resistor - effectively giving the tube's filament zero volts.

Unplug the neck connector from the tube, and measure the resistance between tube pins 1 and 8. You should read a couple of ohms. If it's open, then the filament has burned out, but if it shows a few ohms of resistance, then it's still good.

It's pretty rare for a tube filament to actually burn out. Usually the tube loses emissions long before the filament can burn out.

-Ian
 
RetroHacker said:
Unplug the neck connector from the tube, and measure the resistance between tube pins 1 and 8. You should read a couple of ohms. If it's open, then the filament has burned out, but if it shows a few ohms of resistance, then it's still good.
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks. This was the part I wan't 100% clear on. Do the numering of the pins coincide with the number of the pin from P500? Meaning, I'd just trace the wire from p500 to the appropriate pin on the tube?
 
I checked voltage at the neck connector and it's 6.3. So, it seems the correct voltage is getting to the heater and there is proper resistance between pins 1 and 8 on the neck. Yet there is not neck glow that I can see...even in the dark garage.

Could it be that the tube is just really dim? I read about the Amperex M50-102W tubes having an issue sometimes about going dim over time.

I guess at this point I'll just swap out the tube with the 19VARP4 when it arrives. Then I'll do a cap kit when I get my order from Bob, reflow solder at all connectors, and then see where that gets me.

Unless there are any other thoughts or suggestions? A huge thanks to all that replied and have been helping me thus far. :)
 
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