My 19v2000 needs help

mbott1701

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The WG 19v2000 in my Asteroids Deluxe is having some issues.

The game powers up and plays blind. There is no neck glow and the spot killer LED is not lit. I hear the monitor buzzing and making chatter as the input is changing from the game being in attract mode, I'm guessing.

I disconnected and reseated the molex connector as was suggested in another thread, but that didn't do anything.

Any suggestions on where to go from here? Also, is it a 2 person job getting the monitor out of this cab?? It seems rather difficult for one person unless there's a trick to it?

Any thoughts, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
There is a trick, open the back, and there are two bolts holding the wooden board that the monitor is mounted to. Disconnect the monitor (just the one molex), and remove the 2 bolts and slide the whole assembly out, it's a 1 person job.

It sounds like you're not getting the heater voltage (which creates the neck glow). That comes straight from the power brick, Pins 8 & 9 on P5. Verify that you have about 6.1VAC there. Check that all the pins on the monitor connector are making contact, I have seen cases where the connector had to be jiggled around to turn on the monitor. I know you already reseated it, but unplug it again and just check that none of the pins/sockets are pushed in too far.

If that all checks out, reflow solder to ALL header pins on the deflection board.

The WG 19v2000 in my Asteroids Deluxe is having some issues.

The game powers up and plays blind. There is no neck glow and the spot killer LED is not lit. I hear the monitor buzzing and making chatter as the input is changing from the game being in attract mode, I'm guessing.

I disconnected and reseated the molex connector as was suggested in another thread, but that didn't do anything.

Any suggestions on where to go from here? Also, is it a 2 person job getting the monitor out of this cab?? It seems rather difficult for one person unless there's a trick to it?

Any thoughts, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Right from the manual:
Symptom: Game Plays Blind With Deflection Chatter.
If you can hear deflection chatter, and the game plays "blind", then there are two things you must
check: (1) Low / no voltage to the tube filament; and (2) A failure in the HV supply.
Look for the 6.3v AC heater filament voltage coming from the transformer block. This can be
intermittent.
With the monitor disconnected from the game board, I could measure a good 6.3v AC at the heater
element with my meter, but when the monitor was plugged in, I got nothing under load. Leave the
monitor connected and try and measure off the actual connector pins on the deflection PCB. Check
the molex connector for good contact, as they can gum up causing intermittent contact.
There is a fuse in the power supply that controls the 6.3 VAC for both the picture tube's heater and
also the lamps in the coin door. It can weaken and create a nice voltage drop if it doesn't flat-out
open.
 
Check fuses on the power brick - see if there's any quarters or junk that may be shorting it out. Then unplug the molex going to the monitor, and see if any pins have backed out of the housing a little on either side.

Long story short the power brick provides the 6v heater voltage for the tube (what you normally see as neck glow) - you can remove the flyback altogether and the neck should still glow if the power brick and wiring are ok. Vectors are quite a bit different from normal monitors.
 
A short circuit in the heater would cause low voltage when connected and good voltage when disconnected. However, a fuse would blow (assuming the fuse's value is correct)

(I am a sparky, so I tend to work out why something is happening and start from there)

Looking forward to next post
 
Thanks, that was pretty easy to get the monitor out. :)

Okay here's what I have for voltages...

On the power supply fuse block. I replaced all fuses, just to be sure.

(top to bottom)
F3 - Fluxuated from 5.8v to 6.7v
F4 - 18.8v
F5 - 18.7v
F6 - 6.4v

On the molex connector pin (P100 according to the manual) with the monitor disconnected.

Pin # Voltage
-----------------------
1 5.8
2 5.8
3 5.2
4 5.4
5 5.6
6 5.8
7 1.7
8 2.5
9 30
10 6.7
11 GND
12 26

I lined up my molex connect as pictured in the manual to get the pin numbering right.

These numbers don't match up with what the manual says they should be...



There is a trick, open the back, and there are two bolts holding the wooden board that the monitor is mounted to. Disconnect the monitor (just the one molex), and remove the 2 bolts and slide the whole assembly out, it's a 1 person job.

It sounds like you're not getting the heater voltage (which creates the neck glow). That comes straight from the power brick, Pins 8 & 9 on P5. Verify that you have about 6.1VAC there. Check that all the pins on the monitor connector are making contact, I have seen cases where the connector had to be jiggled around to turn on the monitor. I know you already reseated it, but unplug it again and just check that none of the pins/sockets are pushed in too far.

If that all checks out, reflow solder to ALL header pins on the deflection board.
 
Set your meter to AC and read pins 9 & 12 on the monitor connector for the heater voltage, should be around 6.1v
 
Okay, check. I have low voltage there...

Pin 9 - 0.8v
pin 12 - 4v

Should only be one reading, put one probe on 9 (blue wire) and one on 12 (blue/green wire). Make sure you are in AC mode, there is usually a "~" to indicate AC and a dashed line to indicate DC.

If you are not getting the correct reading there, go back to the power brick and measure pins 8 & 9 together at P5 (the 15 pin connector), that's where the heater voltage is coming from.
 
Thanks for the continued help with this, bungy.

At the molex connector...when I put the one probe on 9 (blue wire) and the other on 12 (blue/green wire), I got 6.4v AC.

Would that eliminate the power supply as the problem?


Should only be one reading, put one probe on 9 (blue wire) and one on 12 (blue/green wire). Make sure you are in AC mode, there is usually a "~" to indicate AC and a dashed line to indicate DC.

If you are not getting the correct reading there, go back to the power brick and measure pins 8 & 9 together at P5 (the 15 pin connector), that's where the heater voltage is coming from.
 
Thanks for the continued help with this, bungy.

At the molex connector...when I put the one probe on 9 (blue wire) and the other on 12 (blue/green wire), I got 6.4v AC.

Would that eliminate the power supply as the problem?

Only for the heater voltage. Now, with the monitor connected, unplug P500 on the deflection board and check pins 9 & 10 in the same way. Voltage should be nearly the same here.
 
If the voltage is present and the neck does not glow. The filament in the tube has went (like a lightbulb) and your picture tube will needs to be replaced.
 
From:
The Black & White Vector Monitor FAQ and Guide
Version 1.1
February 7, 2002

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/FAQ Black and White XY Version 1.1 dated 7 Feb 02.pdf

Replacement monitor tubes are currently available for the Electrohome G05-802 and Wells
Gardner 19V2000, and can be purchased directly from Richardson Electronics, LTD. Visit their
web page here: http://www.rell.com
If you ask for a 19VARP4 tube (19" B&W vector), they will send you a Phillips M47EAA7WS
bare tube. You will not receive the yoke or adjustment rings, so save all that you have.
G05-805 and 15V2000 15" replacement tubes are available from Richardson Electronics. The
original tube is a 15ST4730R, and the Richardson part number is: 15A DATA CRT.

CRT (Neck) Pinout
Here is the complete pinout of both the Electrohome and Wells-Gardner neck/tube.
Pin 1 - Filament GND
Pin 2 - G1 30V
Pin 3 - G2 410V
Pin 4 - G3 300V
Pin 5 -
Pin 6 -
Pin 7 - K 94.5V
Pin 8 - Filament B+

So with your meter if it reads open between pins 1 & 8 the filament is gone
 
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If the voltage is present and the neck does not glow. The filament in the tube has went (like a lightbulb) and your picture tube will needs to be replaced.

That's craptastic! :(

Thanks for the help, the link to that FAQ guide, and the detailed information about a replacment tube.
I'll check pins 1 and 8 to be sure, but I have a feeling I'll be in the market for a replacement tube...
 
Let us know what you find out about the replacement tube (cost, shipping, etc.), I wouldn't mind having a couple of them on hand.
 
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