Multiwilliams control panel for Defender?

GuidoTorpedo

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Does anyone make this? I have a real nice empty Defender cabinet and a Jrok board that need to be mated up. I can make one, but would rather have a plug and play solution. Doesn't have to have controls, just a panel with an overlay.

-Mike
 
the main question involves which joystick you choose because the base dimensions will decide how closely you can get the buttons to the stick.
That's a logistic that throws off some of those overlays
 
the main question involves which joystick you choose because the base dimensions will decide how closely you can get the buttons to the stick.
That's a logistic that throws off some of those overlays

I understand what you're saying...

What is recommended? Using a jrok board.

Mike
 
I used a Sanwa and trimmed the base for the proper button spacing. That is the main issue with a lot of the MW control panels. The Reverse location is too far away to accommodate the fatter 8 way stick base.

The cool thing about This Old Games Defender panel is that it has the Reverse typed there, but has that area open and doesn't lock you to a bad layout.
 

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Those are nice Overlays. What I used was a custom trimmed version of the Phoenix Arcade overlay on mine with some nice slightly longer microswitch Wico style bases with custom Red ball tops from Tony Tornado. Defender is probably the best cab for doing a MW setup in. With original Defender art is looks awesome. The sideart is easy to redo with stencils from game stencils.com.

For the control panel just rip a new piece with the angle out of MDF or Plywood and the t-slot on the front.

I use an Arcade Shop board in the one I did and probably would use a JROK or the new programmable ArcadeSD just for variety of games. The ArcadeSD is emulation where the JROK board is not. Both are awesome but you get a hell of a great game selection on the ArcadeSD board that work well with that control panel layout so I would recommend it as the number 1 choice.

Berzerk /Frenzy/Moon Patrol/Jungle King/Rush N Attack/Zoo Keeper/Mario Bros/Super Mario Bros/Wizard of Wor/Scramble/Tetris + Joust/Robotron/Defender/Stargate/Bubbles/Splat. What else could you wish for for a multigame.

Michael
 
I made a MW CP for my Defender cab from scratch based on the CPO from Back to the Arcade (http://www.backtothearcade.com/index.php/categories/multi-williams). Below are some pics. I still have the coardboard template that I used and can dig it up if you need the dimensions. I used 3/4" playwood for the CP, a spare 8-way Wico leaf joystick and buttons ordered from TRBR. The spacing was definitely tight, but everything fit in there.

P4010004.jpg
 
Excellent.

I started learning about jamma stuff with a 19-1 board and a B-grade multi-williams overlay I picked up at a pinball show for $5. was a great inexpensive way to figure out all the nuances of setups and configurations.

And after much tinkering I have finally figured out the perfect multi-arcade for my own use. I settled on this-

1- A mame cab with wico 8 ways. benefit is playing robotron with PAUSE button. but allows Crazy Climber, Berzerk, Joust and most any horiz/vert oddball game or other emulators like Stella

2- a Defender cab with a JROK. Benefit- Allows exactly correct buttons to a real machine and a shorter 2-way joystick for the proper ship control.

3- a vertical setup with ArcadeSD. Benefit is a 4 way joystick and trackball.

couple of notes-
JROK is hardware emulation. so in essence I'd still call it emulation as their are some minor gameplay variations in Robotron.

ArcadeSD currently has major Williams blitter emulation issues. Clay has it on his board of things to fix. Things like Joust/Robotron/Bubbles are way too fast to play at higher levels even for an extreme master.

Which leaves a wishlist- The only thing I don't have ability to do currently is Sinistar with a 49-way controller or play Star Wars......
 
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I used a Sanwa and trimmed the base for the proper button spacing. That is the main issue with a lot of the MW control panels. The Reverse location is too far away to accommodate the fatter 8 way stick base.

The cool thing about This Old Games Defender panel is that it has the Reverse typed there, but has that area open and doesn't lock you to a bad layout.

So how do these Sanwa joysticks feel when playing Robotron? I've had a few MultiWMS in the past and agree that button spacing from the left stick to the reverse button almost makes Defender and Stargate unplayable when using a normal US joystick.
 
Here is how mine turned out

I used the cpo from Rich at ThisOldGame

I used 2, 4inch leaf wico's flush mounted to the bottom of the control panel, the 4 inch sticks are just tall enough to play Robotron comfortably and short enough to play joust and Defender, only thing I had to do was grind some of the plastic button nut retainer for the player one flap button.

Playing robotron is awesome and I got that old time carpel tunnel feeling during a long game, ahhh the memories!

You can read about how I did it in my thread

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=149996

IMG_3568.JPG
 
Those translucent buttons look REALLY nice!
Thanks
I used rollie leaf switches for the buttons, they maintain that old school feeling of leaf buttons (no clicky, click micro switches) they are a perfect solution for the translucent buttons.
They are available at Paradise arcade

rollie-leaf-switch-for-pushbutton.jpg
 
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So how do these Sanwa joysticks feel when playing Robotron? I've had a few MultiWMS in the past and agree that button spacing from the left stick to the reverse button almost makes Defender and Stargate unplayable when using a normal US joystick.

They're not as nice as originals, but not bad for microswtiched. Light throws and easy to hit diagonals. I shimmed mine down to matched the Defender/Stargate stick height since that is the primary use.
 
Thanks
I used rollie leaf switches for the buttons, they maintain that old school feeling of leaf buttons (no clicky, click micro switches) they are a perfect solution for the translucent buttons.
They are available at Paradise arcade

rollie-leaf-switch-for-pushbutton.jpg

Cool.
I have used those paradise arcade items in many panels now, too. Really like them. especially for something like joust where you can get that bouncy button thing going on.

I did find that the goldleaf ultimarc switches are even better for a very quick/light button.

Think I might have to look into the translucent buttons for my jrok now...yours are so nice looking. :)
 
Looking for someone to make one for a Defender.

Got a neighbor who is making JROK MW out of a Defender.

He is willing to pay a good price for someone to put one together who has done one before (parts+labor+shipping).

I could do it, but I suggested that it might be better to pay someone who has done it before.

Would be looking for the control panel with the overlay on, all holes drilled for leaf switches (not microswitch sized) and thin plexi covering. I'll take care of the buttons, joysticks, etc.. on this side. However, if you can do all of it because you know what works well, then make up a quote for that.

Any takers? He is willing to pay good money for a good product.
 
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There's an ongoing thread in the WTB section full of people wanting something similar. Complete CPs, just the blank wood CP, etc.
If someone does take on a project like this, I think it's safe to say that there's sufficient interest in a full run (myself included.)
 
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